Home /
T.O.C.
FAQs
 
Good
Books
Ref.
Libr.
Advertise
Here
Help
Wanted
Current
Q&A's
Search 🔍
the Site
pub Where the world gathers for
plating, anodizing, & finishing Q&As since 1989





-----

Remove rust with muriatic acid (HCl / hydrochloric acid)

none
finishing.com is made possible by ...
this text gets replaced with bannerText
spacer gets replaced with bannerImages

Tutorial:
(to help readers better understand the Q&A's)

Muriatic/hydrochloric acid is a very powerful rust remover used in steel mills, electroplating shops, and other factories because, although it dissolves metal, it dissolves rust on the metal much quicker than the metal.

However, as you will read in this dialog, for most consumer situations, there are other acids which are not only safer, but which offer other advantages as well. An important thing to remember about this acid is that, unlike many other acids, it is actually a gas dissolved in water, so there is a very great tendency for it to fume and for those fumes to attack & corrode other things.

Q. Hi everyone,
Currently I'm working on a shipbuilding project in Malaysia. I found some of the pipe materials (carbon steel) heavily rusted because not preserved properly. The client asking us to clean the pipes using Hydrochloric acid to evaluate. I got HCl 31-33% for the job, but new to HCl. What is the right concentration of HCl to be used for cleaning of these pipes? For information, these pipes to be installed on the ships after cleaning.
Thanes Kumar
Quality Inspector - Perak, Malaysia
November 23, 2022


A. Hi Thanes. If you were involved in major ongoing de-rusting of pipes where economics was a driving factor, the answer would not be easy, because there is actually a fairly well developed science just on this subject -- see Barlow Campano's article "The Kleingarn Regenerated Spent Acid" in our on-line library as a starting point, or use the search term 'Kleingarn Curve' with a search engine.

But for a "one off" project like this I'd probably just fill the tank halfway with water, then slowly fill the remaining half with acid because a little over 15% ought to work fine.

There are a couple of other things to consider here, though. Your acid really ought to have an 'inhibitor' in it so the acid is consumed only (or mostly) in dissolving rust, not in attacking the steel. Also, in case you don't know, the pipes will rust again very quickly if you just acid dip them and rinse them. You must neutralize the acid with a dip in some sort of alkali, and then dip in some sort of rust preservative.
Luck & Regards,
pic of Ted Mooney
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey





Closely related historical posts, oldest first ...

Q. I have been trying to remove rust from various vehicle parts using 36% HCl diluted 7 parts water to 1 part HCl. However the process is extremely slow (little to no visible change after 4-5 hours). I suspect the ambient temperature is possible slowing the process down, (14 °C) or perhaps the concentration is incorrect. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
James [last name deleted for privacy by Editor]
- Cork, Ireland
2004


A. Hi James. It's not too cold, it's too dilute. 10 to 20 percent by weight would be better. Dilute it 2 or 3:1 rather than 7:1.
Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Ted Mooney, P.E.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey


A. Personally I would not use hydrochloric acid because chloride ions readily promote rusting of iron and steels. To ensure you have removed all the acid will require extensive post treatment processing. I would recommend either sulphuric or possibly sulphamic acid, depending on how much rust is present. You can then treat the steel with either strong nitric acid or phosphoric acid to give it a passive layer.
trevor crichton
Trevor Crichton
R&D practical scientist
Chesham, Bucks, UK



Q. Thanks for the advise, Ted. I have tried your suggestion but am still disappointed with the results. After 3 hours even light rust has not been removed. However rubbing with a wire brush at this stage does remove some of the rust. I had hoped to be able to remove all rust in 2-3 hours, is there possibly a better acid for the job?
James [returning]
- Ireland


A. Although HCl is widely used for pickling and as prep for plating, Trevor Crichton is correct that it is corrosive and may not be ideal for older parts or complex pieces. I don't think a hobbyist should use the nitric acid post treatment, but the phosphoric acid sounds good. Alkaline electrolytic de-rusting is yet another possibility.

But what I don't understand is why strong HCl is not dissolving the rust; the reaction should be nearly instantaneous -- a few minutes at most, not a few hours.
Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Ted Mooney, P.E.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey


simultaneous

A. For hobbyist citric acid based solution is safest. You can use 5 % ammonium citrate solution (pH 3,5), temp. up to 80 °C!
Good luck!
Goran Budija
- Zagreb , Croatia



Q. Thanks for the replies, guys. I have been using phosphoric acid and although the results are quite good the process is painfully slow ... hence my usage of HCl. Can I post-treat HCl dipped parts in phosphoric acid?
James [returning]
- Ireland


A. Dear James,

You can use sulphuric acid 10 percent at about 65 to 88 °C, time 5 to 10 min. With good exhaust system sulphuric acid gives off no noxious fumes.

Thanks,
Aly Gomaa
- Egypt




<- Ed. note: Please describe your situation rather than posting in the abstract What? Huh?

Q. Good morning, I used HCl as metal rust removal liquid, but excess fumes come out from acid. How to reduce fumes? Otherwise any other alternative clean liquid for metal rust?
A.LEO MICHAEL DURAIRAJ
- hosur, tamilnadu, India
February 12, 2018


A. Hi A.LEO,
It's not clear if you are an industrialist regularly processing parts in acid treatment vats, or a hobbyist doing a one-off treatment in a plastic bucket.
If you are a hobbyist, you could wire brush the parts, and then treat with phosphoric acid, or use the HCl outdoors.
If you are an industrialist you should be using inhibited HCl, not commodity HCl, and your tanks should be equipped with exhaust ventilation systems. Good luck.
Regards,
pic of Ted Mooney
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey




Q. Hi, I want to remove rust from newly made window grills and gate. It's made of pipes; please advise what I should do. Grill size is 6 feet x 8 feet and gate is 14 feet x 6 feet
Ahsan Rasheed
- Islamabad, Pakistan
May 21, 2018


Ospho Rust Converter

Affil. Link
Your purchases make finishing.com possible

A. Hi Ahsan. If these are plain steel pipes, they are not rust resistant and must be painted. You can remove heavy rust with a wire brush, then apply phosphoric acid based "rust converter", then you must paint these items. Good luck.
Regards,
pic of Ted Mooney
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey



Q. Hi, please advise for rust removal should I use HCl in concentrated form or in diluted form. If diluted what will be the ratio of HCl and water?
Ahsan Rasheed [returning]
- Islamabad, Pakistan
May 23, 2018


A. Hi cousin Ahsan. I suggest 10 to 20 percent by weight, which means if you had pure HCl you would add 1 part of HCl to 4 parts of water to get 20%. But if the concentration of your acid is 36%, like James had, 1 part acid to 1 part water would give you 18% acid, which would probably be fine.
But please tell us who you are and what your situation is; your question remains abstract, as we've told earlier posters. We don't know if you are a homeowner de-rusting your own grills & gates, and insisting upon using HCl although we've already told it isn't appropriate, or whether you are a plant manager running a high production pickling line for grills who cannot switch to phosphoric acid. No one can talk about safety, environmental issues, hydrogen embrittlement, ongoing corrosion from chloride ions, inhibitors, the Kleingarn curve, and the 101 other "ifs, ands & buts" of the subject when we don't know who you are and what your situation is. Sorry and good luck!
Regards,
pic of Ted Mooney
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey




Q. Hi Everyone.
I have 310 fairly heavy rusted 11 foot pipes for cleaning.
I would say I am a little advanced over average as I have been doing DIY projects for some time.

I got HCl 31-33% for the job, but new to HCl.

My question is,
01. Looking at plastic rain gutters for the bath. Will it hold the HCl?

02. If I don't dilute it, the process will be faster. Any cons?

I intend to paint the pipes after the acid treatment.

Here is a pic of a sample pipe which was treated using Acetic Acid, but the process is a little too slow for me.

32106-1b   32106-1a  

Thank you.
Shehan Daulagala
- Sri Lanka
August 2, 2018


A. Hi. I hope these pipes will be used strictly for a decorative application because they look like they have no integrity with such extensive pitting. Pure PVC is very acid resistant, so are polyethylene and polypropylene, but other plastics like nylon are not. So put a little piece of the rain gutter into the acid bottle for a week or two and see what you learn about its resistance; are you sure you can cap it water-tight?
You'll probably want to cap the pipes before immersing them. I think you'll have to re-fill the gutter with fresh acid at least a dozen or more times to do 310 pipes, with countless opportunities for safety accidents or pollution incidents doing them one at a time in a rain gutter -- but good luck. A plating shop with 12 foot wide tanks could probably do this in an hour or so, but it will take you a week, maybe more :-)
Regards,
pic of Ted Mooney
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey


thumbs up sign Hi Ted, Thank you for your response. Yes they are decorative, the pits are what attracts them to me, the very rustic look ;)

The plating shop was a good idea, will look for one.

The HCl comes in high molecular weight polyethylene(HDPE) containers, and gutters are made of Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or uPVC, PVC is much more stronger than HDPE. But like you recommended I will just submerge a piece of gutter to HCl and see.

The danger and accident ratio using gutters are true :(

Thank you
Shehan
Shehan Daulagala [returning]
- Colombo, Sri Lanka




How to neutralize hydrochloric acid in an engine

Q. Hi guys. I have a classic car engine, and after 15 years sitting in a garage I decided to restore it. I have done the normal process, opened it, cleaned everything, etc., but when I assembled it the coolant didn't circulate. After I opened it about three times I decided to fill it up with hydrochloric acid and left it for a night. In the morning I rinsed it out many times until the water came out clean. I assembled everything and the coolant circulated properly, the problem is that every about 3 months the coolant is coming rusty every time -- I think the acid is still alive! Can I dissolve baking soda with water and leave it for a while so it neutralizes the hydrochloric acid please? I appreciate if someone can help please, thanks regards, Chris
Christian Gialanze
Hobbyist - Zurrieq, Malta
June 4, 2019


A. Hi Christian. Yes, I think you can do that under your conditions, although I would hate for other readers to misread things and extrapolate (the reaction of baking soda with HCl creates huge amounts of CO2 gas). Use only a pinch or two of baking soda, because there surely can't be much acidity left.

Regards,
pic of Ted Mooney
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey


thumbs up sign Thanks very much for your immediate reply Ted, I'm going to try it and will see if the problem is solved; thanks again Ted.
Kindly regards, Chris
Christian gialanze [returning]
- Zurrieq malta


A. After your baking soda treatment, fill it with any modern anti-freeze and future rust will be prevented.
jeffrey holmes
Jeffrey Holmes, CEF
Spartanburg, South Carolina




Q. G'day crew, my name's Mark from Australia ... I'm artistic in about 5 different mediums and at present, I'm working with knives -- making handles, sheaths, shoulder holsters ... unique unusual. And being a knife lover, I recently acquired two Raindrop Damascus steel knives but they had a little bit of rust starting on them which now is getting outta hand... I was told to use sulfuric acid, I think 70/30 mix but it was too casually said for me and thought I'd try my luck on line ... I've read through the earlier Q and A's and thought the answers came from a knowledgeable place, so if anyone has any ideas, I'd been keen to try them ... thanks for your time.
Mark Erlandsen
- Ashmore, Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia
February 20, 2020



CLR

Affil. Link
Your purchases make finishing.com possible

A. Hello Mark,
Have you tried CLR? It would be much safer for you than HCl.
Mark Baker
Retired - Winston Salem, North Carolina, USA



March 1, 2020

Q. Hey Mark Baker, CLR ???
I have got some around here somewhere. Have you had Damascus steel with rust and tried this yourself mate ?
I've been doing a heap of reading and YouTube watching and tried WD40, Bi Carb, lemon, etc ... they've taken the loose stuff off, no problems but the knife still has the discolouring or scars, and ultimately what I'm looking for is the stark difference of steel and carbon, the black and silver of a clean blade to use as props or include in art pieces. It was mentioned the best way to achieve what I'm looking for was with some sorta acid wash ... lol, but I haven't tried the CLR yet so I'll give it a go. Much appreciated for your input.
Mark Erlandsen [returning]
- Gold Coast Queensland


A. You should look at ultrasonic cleaning; it can work here.
vedant aggarwal
- delhi, India




<- Ed. note: Please describe your situation rather than posting in the abstract What? Huh?

Q. If dipping metal in muriatic acid. What can I use to stop it from pitting the metal? Best rinsing agent?
Ger ross
- Milwaukee Wisconsin
February 16, 2021


A. Try ammonium citrate solution ( 5 %,pH 3,5) - better, safer and more environment friendly solution.
Hope it helps and good luck!
Goran Budija
- Zagreb Croatia


Q, A, or Comment on THIS thread -or- Start a NEW Thread

Disclaimer: It's not possible to fully diagnose a finishing problem or the hazards of an operation via these pages. All information presented is for general reference and does not represent a professional opinion nor the policy of an author's employer. The internet is largely anonymous & unvetted; some names may be fictitious and some recommendations might be harmful.

If you are seeking a product or service related to metal finishing, please check these Directories:

 
Jobshops
Capital
Equipment
Chemicals &
Consumables
Consult'g, Train'g
& Software


About/Contact    -    Privacy Policy    -    ©1995-2023 finishing.com, Pine Beach, New Jersey, USA