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440A Stainless Steel, Laser Marking, Passivation and Rust




Q. We use 440A Stainless Steel for Medical Devices and they have to be laser marked and Passivated. We have a problem of RUST where we do laser marking.

Jitendrakumar Shah
- Piscataway, New Jersey
2003


A. If these medical devices are not required to be sharp, they can be passivated with strong film by high-voltage technology. Steel can become a little yellow if you desire the passivating film to be thick.

anna_berkovich
Anna Berkovich
Russamer Lab
supporting advertiser
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
russamer labs banner
2003


A. The reason for rusting in the laser marked areas is that an insoluble oxide of some kind has been formed that does not allow the acid to see the substrate. Remove the oxide before passivating and all will be well.

Dan Weaver
- Toccoa, Georgia
2003


A. Depending on quantities you can laser mark with Cermark or Thermark. The ceramic based solution is fused to the metal by low powered laser (CO2, Galvo ...) You will obtain a super crisp and very black mark. Both companies working on other colors for metal marking as well.

We use this method for underwater equipment. It is also used for marking of pacemakers and other medical products. Due to the process of applying the paint, drying time and laser time you will have to evaluate the efficiency for your application. For general passivation of stainless after welding we use phosphoric acid which might be referred to as white passivation.

Sven Busse
- Miramar, Florida
2003


A. I've had the same problems on some of my 440c medical reamers. It appears that the laser marking stays under the passivation and causes little rust spots after sterilization. We solved the problem by passivating before engraving, laser marking afterward, and white passivating them at last. After those treatments, not one of our other instruments rusted.

Marc Thebo
- Canada
2003



sidebar

Marc,
What is "white passivating"?
Jon Quirt
- Minneapolis, Minnesota



This white passivation is the name of a process which one of my suppliers gave me in order to explain why there was no rust on our instruments and there was rust on their previous instruments. I tried asking them where and how they did it and they are still hazy on the subject. I'm still trying to figure out if there are any standards or guides about "white passivation".
Marc Thebo
- Canada



I have never heard of white passivating. Perhaps they use it to sum up other passivation included steps; sodium dichromate post passivate, maybe hot caustic pre treatment. I would ask Lee Kremer of Stellar Solutions [a finishing.com supporting advertiser] if he has heard to it. Lee has some great citric acid based products, but word of caution the citric passivates are so good they will remove or greatly lighten laser mark. Other technology I have seen is a ceramic glaze applied prior to laser mark. The laser frits the glass and the resulting corrosion resistance is very good. I suggest a internet search for "Thermark" I think they were working on FDA approvals but I'm not sure.
Jon Quirt
- Minneapolis, Minnesota



Q. One of the responses on this subject mention the removal of the laser mark using citric passivation. Does anyone have suggestions on how to prevent removal? Is this a consequence of time in bath, citric concentration, temperature?

Dell Parr
- Memphis Tennessee
April 2, 2009


A. My name is Qasim Raza and I am from Pakistan. We are a manufacturing company of beauty care stainless steel products. I would like to tell you something about that what is Passivation.

Passivation is a special process we do during manufacturing to avoid rust.

For Passivation we dip instruments in boiling water mixed with some special liquid/chemical. Then the instruments boiled for 24 hours and after this we allow all the instruments to cool itself in the same water. The cooling process will take more the 12 hours.

After this we check all the instruments very carefully and if we find any problem in the instrument we remove it and finally send it to other manufacturing process.

I hope this stuff will help you to understand about Passivation. if any one have any question please let me know.

Best personal regards,

Qasim Raza
AunAilya Beauty Company - Pakistan
May 2, 2009



Q. Related to this, I am trying to figure out how one can maintain their laser marking/engraving while rebrushing the steel? Laser markings tend to be more shallow than traditional engravings and more importantly hold the dark burn color in the engraving which in this case should be preserved.

Kerma Hoyry
- Helsinki, Finland
February 11, 2013



A. Hi Kerma. I don't think this can be done. "Brushing" is actually done with sandpaper/scotchbrite, and it physically removes the metal and the laser marking along with it. It is theoretically possible to not brush the engraved area, but that sounds impractical in reality. I think you will need to do the engraving after the brushing.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Ted Mooney, P.E.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey
February 12, 2013


A. I'm not 100% sure of what your problem really is? Ted covered some ground, but surface finishing is a matter of degrees. Meaning, depending on the energy application and or force used you can achieve different results. Another factor is the size and shape of the part and the hardness of the material. Not know the particulars, it is hard to make a good recommendation.

tony kenton
AF Kenton
retired business owner - Hatboro, Pennsylvania
February 13, 2013



Q. Hello all, trying to find a new way to engrave stainless steel plates with our LS900 laser engraver (which we use for bracing plugs on our electrical equipment). We have already been using non-reflective spray to then burn a top layer of text onto the stainless, but this tends to rub off easily. I was considering colored passivation, but was curious as to whether I could burn through with our 60W laser (and whether it would be visible enough). Has anyone tried this or have any suggestions? Thanks.

Gus Germenis
- Houston, Texas, United States
February 25, 2013




Q. Hello
We use Stainless Steel (Nirosta®) for Medical Devices and they have to be laser marked. We have a problem of corrosion where we do laser marking. Somebody has the same problem. I conduct extensive research in that issue. Probably somebody had the same problem with the laser. I am reading here that people doing the passivation before the laser, then how create the corrosion protect after that? Is it wrong to do the passivation after the laser?

Thanks,

Michael Rachilevsky
- Tel aviv, Israel
May 9, 2013

A. Production is not always set up after the most correct chemical point of view. Newer the less stains from laser markings can be removed either with spot passivation or if heavy stains, do some spot pickling before passivation.

Do remember that the purpose of laser marking might be to make dark colored marking and those marking are a thicker layer of chromium oxide. Try for instance to make a test.
You will not find free iron.

Bo Koenig
- Aalborg, Denmark
May 13, 2013



Q. What do you mean in "spot pickling"?

Michael Rachilevsky
- Tel aviv, Israel
May 16, 2013


A. Sometimes, the entire work piece is to big for the process tank, and one will choose only to treat the "problem"; that is known as spot pickling or spot galvanizing, tampon plating, and probably many other names.

Bo Koenig
Consultant - Aalborg Denmark
May 30, 2013


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