Muscle Car Restoration: MUSTANG MACH 1

Walnut Shell blasting media

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A. You have quite a chore in front of you, I have owned a '73 Mach I since I was 16 (got it from my step mother, the original owner). Chances are, once you strip it you are going to find a lot of body rust, especially on the rear quarter panels... I know I did. What I would suggest is likely the most excessive way possible to begin, but then without a good frame/body, you can't really restore the car.

I personally like media blasting (a bit more expensive than acid dips, but better for the metal). I would suggest a walnut shell/glass bead mix ⇨
-- the walnut shell strips paint but not rust, the glass bead will take off the rust, make sure they mix it no heavier than 10-1 walnut to glass.

Before doing that you will need to STRIP THE CAR. Take EVERYTHING off, rip out the interior, do it all. Then take it to be media blasted ... and have them put a sealer on it (if you don't add the sealer, rust will pop up in a few hours, as the metal is naked). From there you are likely going to need to manufacture quite a lot of body (the ass end doesn't separate, you're going to have work on that in place ... and good luck with the frame, it is a pain).

Also a word of warning, finding any pieces for this year/model is going to be near impossible (I've gone through Mexico, Canada, and even a South African supplier to get pieces), most of it is going to have to be custom fabricated. On that note, since you have to make almost everything as you go, I would suggest using modern materials to replace the older ones, as it is the look you are trying to keep, not the weak links.

On the upside, the Engine and drive train were all options for the other Mustangs of '73 so you can get parts for them (or even replacements if you want).

Please feel free to contact me, as I'm STILL restoring mine, and wouldn't mind correspondence as you find/learn things, and I can pass on what I know.

Ed. note: We have all the room in the world for pics, anecdotes, and ideas here where the conversation has already started; no need to take it private, inadvertently cutting other people out of the conversation just as they're getting interested  🙂

Bondo

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A. Congratulations on your find. It looks to be in pretty good shape. As was previously said, take the car apart and locate and repair any rust you find. Floor pans are a given and will have to be replaced. The rear fenders are prone to rust as well.

We started our restoration over a year ago with a car that had some front clip damage, a lot of Bondo ⇨
on the left rear fender, and completely rusted out floor pans. We ended up replacing the left rear fender, floor pans, front clip, radiator support, trunk supports, and a ton of small parts that you don't think of right away but which end up costing a fortune. Seals, seals, seals. After doing all the body work, you'll come to realize that you will need a butt load of seals. That alone can cost some bucks.

We have pretty much completed the restoration of our 73 Mach 1. We still have some stripes to put on and some miscellaneous parts here and there, but it is for the most part done.

As far as parts are concerned, the reproduction market is really starting to pick up when it comes to 71 - 73 Mustangs. Parts that weren't available before are popping up in catalogs left and right. Most body parts are available and are your best bet if you have a lot of rust.

A. Well I would definitely tackle the floor pans first, like I should have done, and then head right for the seals. Good luck on finding motor mounts.

A. I have a 65 Mustang in need of complete restoration. I started stripping it down to nothing and I need to replace my floor pans as well as a lot of other parts that are completely rusted. I have been able to get most of my parts from a local warehouse in Connecticut, Mustangs Unlimited ⇩.

Ed. update October 2020: Mustangs Unlimited (Connecticut) was acquired by the Top Flight Automotive / Extra Mile Brands conglomerate, and is now located in Reedsville, PA.

A. The rear quarters and trunk supports do not come off the frame. Before you do anything, check the inner rockers to make sure they are not rotted, so that you have something to weld the new floor pans to. Also look at the cowl area. If this is heavily rusted find another chassis! Replacing structural items is difficult if not impossible for most of us. If you don't get everything EXACTLY right nothing will line up during reassembly. Convertibles really suck.

A. These 71-73 are my favorite Mustangs. They have the best ride/handling and the most horsepower options. I own two 1973s: • One is a basic frame N.C 351w 2b fmx air d-lux int mach 1 package fold down rear seat full console glow blue and silver. • The other one is from Ohio and I bought it from Texas this one is a Q code w air D-lux int lime green white intr.; this car has only 48000 mi on it. I bought this one frame on eBay. First time car purchase. The seller was as honest as he could be about the condition of the car. Had I known, it had extensive rust to the cowl pane by the heater box right side.

If you have this problem, you got a problem. Because you cannot buy these parts. You will have to fabricate. Ohio Mustang Supply sells some parts frame 1970 mustangs that you can utilize for the 1971-1973s; as for the floors you can use the seat risers frame 1970 mustangs. I can't wait for full Quarter panels. The aftermarket ones are like putting socks on a rooster. The best way to put them on is cut the edge off @ door opening and the rear edge line up and weld. For you who don't have access to a welder, they sell panel epoxy; it works excellent -- better than welding . I'd rather epoxy the Quarters and rear panels on. There is no warpage, less grinding, etc.
*WARNING* don't epoxy any other parts ... this is for panels ONLY.
Good Luck to All

Ed. update Nov. 2025: Ohio Mustang Supply is still in business  🙂

A. I have a 73 Mach 1 that I'm working on, I know a salvage yard here in S.C. that has about ten 1970-1973 mustangs; that's where I get my parts. Vicks Classic Auto Parts, Chesnee S.C.
I don't think he has a web site.

Ed. update Nov 2025: Vicks Classic Auto Parts is still in business  🙂