How to antique copper

A. Hi Robyn. You can certainly leave the copper unwaxed and unlacquered and it will retain its antimicrobial properties. The only thing is, it will not stay bright, it will turn brown like old pennies.

Regards,

A. Hi. You can theoretically age the copper to a nice green patina with various solutions of acids & salts which the readers will advise you of here. And I would not want to discourage such real home-made artistry. However, in view of the various different grades of copper, and the many different surface conditions from different factory operations and prior attempts at aging, etc., it can take a patient artist to get a consistent and attractive finish from treating your copper surface with acids & salts :-)

So, probably the fastest and most reliable approach -- but not the cheapest or most creative -- is to first "paint" it with a special "reactive paint" designed to contain a controlled amount of properly activated tiny copper flakes, followed by a patinating solution designed to interact ideally with those flakes. This two-part process doesn't rely heavily on the surface conditions of your copper sheeting or your copper tubing, or its alloy composition, to provide the desired patina. Good luck.

Regards,

A. Try Getting it powder coated with a patina or other weathered look finish. It may save you a lot of money and hassle.

A. The patina that you wish to apply to copper is a form of copper carbonate [on eBay or Amazon] that usually forms over a long period of time on items left outdoors. However to speed things up, the metal finisher has mixtures that can do almost the same thing. I would recommend that you seek out a lamp restoration shop that does metal finishing and plating. Any chemicals should be used carefully, and with full protective gear as is appropriate. One suggested formula is:

copper nitrate [affil links] 4 ozs.
Ammonium Chloride 4 ozs.
Calcium Chloride 4 ozs.
Water 1 Gallon

Parts may be immersed, and the solution allowed to dry on. Repeat. Another bath used many years ago was a solution of copper carbonate and ammonia. However, due to the fumes from the ammonia, I would not suggest that you try this.

A. Hi, James; hi, Sam. Liver of sulfur is available as a dilute, ready to use liquid, or as a crystal-like solid to be diluted in water, and as a gel (which may be handiest). Formulas for various color patinas can be found in "The Colouring, Bronzing & Patination of Metals" [adv: this book on eBay, Amazon, AbeBooks] . Good luck.

A. Hi Jerry. I've never done it myself and don't know the best strength, i.e., by how much to dilute it with water if you use the stones rather than the pre-made solution, although I've heard a fingernail size to a small bowl of water.

I strongly doubt that you are supposed to dilute it with vinegar, and would caution you to not even consider that unless you know it to be correct! Acidification of sulfur compounds (vinegar is an acid) tends to release copious quantities of suffocating hydrogen sulfide and related airborne toxins.

A. A beautiful rich deep brown can be achieved on copper by using first the liver (correct name: Potassium Polysulfide) which is available from most chemical suppliers. It comes in the form of solid dry stones which are easily dissolved in water. One small stone, about the size of your smallest fingernail will be enough to mix a solution of 600 ml. Put this in a spray bottle and apply to the copper while consistently heating with a gas torch. Then gently rub down the surface with a wet scourer until you have an even light brown color. Then reheat the surface, this time applying a weak ferric nitrate, this will richen, redden and darken the brown that you achieved with the liver, when you are happy with the color, coat the surface with either a wax (floor wax is sufficient) or clearcoat.

A. It is very simple indeed:
- wet a cloth with HARPIC 'the toilet cleaner'
- wipe the copper
- wait for one day.
Gently wash under running water to wash off the remaining Harpic. Do not scrub or rub as that will remove the patina formation powder.
- after drying, spray with clear lacquer to fix the patina formation.

I have been doing this often to give my copper sculptures a patina coating

A. Hi, Penelope. If you are buying finished beads they may already be lacquered, and the lacquer must be removed with acetone [on eBay or Amazon] or lacquer thinner [on eBay or Amazon]. I'm not seeing what's hard about using liver of sulfur: it's dirt cheap, it's readily available, and it's designed to do what you're trying to do.

But if you want a "green" approach, put the jewelry in a plastic baggie with crushed hard boiled eggs overnight (thanks to James Watts for this tip). Let us know how it works. Good luck.

Regards,

A. Hi Kathy. Wax would probably have very limited life if not periodically restored. A clearcoat might be better -- either automotive two-part clearcoat or possibly a UV hardened lacquer (basically the gel stuff they apply in manicure salons and cure under UV light).

Regards,

A. Hi Ruth. Please see my response at the top of the page. Indeed it can take experience and artistry to directly patina copper countertops, so using the metal reactive paint may give easier and better results. After you've got it, apply lacquer or automotive clearcoat. Good luck.

Regards,

A. To help all of you wanting an 'instant" patina on copper countertops and panels: I purchased a product from a company I found online, the name is Sculpt Noveau. They were very helpful over the phone and gave me quick instructions on how to get the finish I wanted. They have several color choices, green, blue (more like a turquoise) and a natural rusty brown which is what I chose. I placed the liquid in a spray bottle and spritzed it on my new copper island top. I immediately covered the wet top with a very lightweight piece of plastic. Don't smooth it out, as the wrinkles and bunchiness of the plastic on the wet top will make the pattern. I left it on about 30 minutes or so then carefully pulled back the plastic from one end. I let the top dry completely then used a spray from the same company to lightly spray the top. After a few days, I used a wax (also by the same company) to further protect the top. I apply the wax maybe a couple of times a year, which might take me all of 5 minutes. My island is beautiful and everyone always comments on it. Best of all I did it myself!

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Ed. note: Thanks for the clear instructions Diane! Send a pic.

A. Hi cousin Riyaz. Sorry for the misunderstanding, but this is probably a good time to interject this for everyone's benefit. This isn't a free consulting service where people plop their needs on the table and run off, expecting specialists to rush to fill them and at no charge :-)

Rather, this is a public forum for camaraderie with our peers around the world, offering interesting global interaction, fun, & information exchange. You are in this business and must know a good deal about the subject, and there are already over two dozen postings on the subject on this page ... so please don't ask people to start over; instead please try your best to actively participate in the discussion, helping others out, and framing ongoing questions in terms of some of the discussion already underway. What have you been trying, and what happens? Thanks!

Regards,

A. Hi Leonard. Please talk to a plumber friend. I would be virtually sure that there are plumbing fittings available that would allow you to screw something on with a washer on the back side rather than soldering. The face of this new overflow fitting could then be patinated and you would be able to do experiments on a little fittings/faceplate without ruining your sink.

Regards,

adv.
We are the makers of an easy RIY (Restore It Yourself) kit to restore and repair an oil rub Brown-black patina to copper surfaces of sinks, counters, etc it is called Copper Patina Repair kit

A. Hi Alan,
2-component automotive clearcoat is not endlessly durable but is probably the most robust answer.
Luck & Regards,


Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey