Millitary rifle re-finishing
I am currently undertaking a few small projects involving refinishing stocks on ex-mill rifles, mausers and smle's. As an ex cabinet maker I am familar with timber finishes, stripping etc. I have been asked if I would try re-bluing barreled actions and parts. My previous efforts have worked out ok using kits, and I understand that the job is only as good as the prep work.
I would really like to do justice to these old pieces and would appreciate any advice on:
b)hot bluing (caustic based ?)
c)rust bluingClint Thompson
- Nilma, Victoria, Australia
I have been hot bluing for many years and prep work is a major factor. Extreme caution is most important as hot bluing is done with caustic soda solution around 300 degrees F. You need an area that is exhausted as even the fumes can cause rusting of metal in the area. The solution will go thru leather, wool, skin, etc. so proper precautions are a must. Cold bluing will work but is not as durable. I have found on some rifles that are parkerized, they need to be bead blasted to allow the bluing to work.Ed Kay
- St.Louis, Missouri
I forgot to mention if you go to a search program for gunsmiths or gunsmith supplies you will probably find a lot more info on bluing.
Good luck,Ed Kay
- St. Louis, Missouri, USA
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