finishing.com -- The Home Page of the Finishing Industry

HomeFAQsSuggested
Books
Help
Wanteds
Advertise
on this site
FORUM
current topics

60,000 Q&A topics -- Education, Aloha, & Fun

topic 8664

Removing Rust Stains from Cast Iron Carpenter's Plane


2001

Q. I have purchased some old woodworker's planes and a couple of them sat in moisture. I cleaned the chunks off with a razor blade scraper and then used 0000 steel wood and penetrating oil to remove the residue.

It is now nice and smooth, but is stained. What can I do to remove the stains, keeping in mind that these are collector's pieces and they would prefer to have it looking as original as possible.

Thanks,

Jim Paul
Jim's Estate Services - Eagle River, Wisconsin, USA


2002

Q. I want to know how I can remove stains (rust, finger marks, etc.) from my Cast iron table saw top plus other metal machines that are in my unheated garage.

John Walsh
- Concord, New Hampshire, USA


October 19, 2010

Q. I purchased an outdoor grill/smoker. The unit is extremely heavy, made of iron! I have rust on the top of the unit! Do I need to sand, seal, and repaint the unit? If so, what grit sandpaper do I use, and what kind of sealer and paint! Thanks for your advice! Tom Murphy

tom murphy
- Texarkana Texas U.S.s


affil. link
Microcrystalline "Museum Wax"


affil. link
Rutland Brush-on Stove Paint

October 21, 2010

A. Hi, folks.

Jim: I would try hydrogen peroxide [affil. link to product info on Amazon] because people have reported that it removes rust from bathtubs, and it just might work on your plane. The reason I'd try the H2O2 first is because other things that will easily remove rust, like mild acid, will leave the surface highly susceptible to flash rusting. But if the peroxide doesn't work, then diluted Muriatic Acid [affil. link to product info on Amazon] will surely work (or possibly even vinegar) to quickly dissolve the rust. But then you must immediately rinse, neutralize with baking soda, and rinse again, then wax or oil the plane. Steel and cast iron rust -- sorry -- and something, even if it's as impermanent as wax, must be put on the metal surface to stop it.

John: Cast iron rusts. The suggestions to Jim should work for you, but in an unheated garage you'll definitely have to keep a coat of oil on your tools. Treat them like you would a firearm, clean and frequently lightly oiled.

Tom: Nothing can adhere to loose red rust because the chain of adhesion from the surface to the base metal is only as strong as its weakest link. Whether you remove the rust with sandpaper or convert it to stable black rust with a naval jelly Rust Converter [affil. link to product info on Amazon] you need to start with getting rid of red rust. Then you can use high temperature paint. Good luck.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E.
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey
Striving to live Aloha

none
adv.
this text gets replaced with bannerText
spacer gets replaced with bannerImages

Q, A, or Comment on THIS thread SEARCH for Threads about ... My Topic Not Found: Start NEW Thread

Disclaimer: It's not possible to diagnose a finishing problem or the hazards of an operation via these pages. All information presented is for general reference and does not represent a professional opinion nor the policy of an author's employer. The internet is largely anonymous & unvetted; some names may be fictitious and some recommendations may be deliberately harmful.

  If you need a product/service, please check these Directories:

JobshopsCapital Equip. & Install'nChemicals & Consumables Consult'g, Train'g, SoftwareEnvironmental Compliance


©1995-2020 finishing.com, Inc., Pine Beach, NJ   -   About finishing.com   -  Privacy Policy
How Google uses data when you visit this site.