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topic 6364

Plating barrel danglers and other maintenance problems



A discussion started in 1999 & continuing through 2017

(1999)

Q. I am a new maintenance person in the finishing industry, and am having problems with danglers being chewed up very quickly by 100 mm carburised TEK screws. We currently use danglers made of 19 mm steel cable coated with a green plastic which is supposed to be good for the application (zinc electroplating). Could anyone please help with an alternative design of dangler for this purpose?

Thanks, Brian

Brian Webber
heat treatment - Australia


(1999)

A. Hi Brian. Sorry, I'm not quite clear on whether the dangler knob gets worn out too quickly or the insulation on the dangler cable gets abraded too fast. I don't know what your green plastic is, but UHMW-PE is an exceptionally abrasion resistant plastic and should be available in a thin walled soft tubing that you could slide as a sleeve over the commercial dangler. (Of course, you need a good fit or the screws will insinuate themselves between the sleeve and the dangler insulation).

Ted Mooney, finishing.com Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey


(1999)

A. If the problem is wear of the cable insulation there is a dangler design which coats the portion in the cylinder with heavy vulcanized rubber. This has proven more effective than sleeves. If you would like the manufacturers name, our company distributes this product.

Gene Packman
process supplier - Great Neck, New York


(1999)

A. Dear Brian: I understand perfectly. We have also had this problem. Our solution is we used semi flexible plastic tubing about 1/8" thick as a sleeve around the cable. You must take the cable off and sleeve it from the bolted side. Works great. KH

Ken Hutchinson
- Minneapolis, Minnesota


(1999)

A. The dangler problem you are experiencing is common for those companies doing sharp screws, etc.

1). you should be able to order danglers from your supplier with a clear flexible p.v.c. sleeve or jacket , measure from behind the head to where the dangler passes thru the barrel on the inside + a half inch or so. Get a couple of sample to try out first.

2). consider a center rod contact assembly, this is a 1" dia. 304 ss bar going straight thru the barrel with 304 ss "hairpins" bent from 1/8 x 1" material, evenly spaced, use 1" id pvc pipe to cover the exposed areas between the hairpins. connect the SS to the barrel contacts with 3/4" dia. copper solid, cover the solid copper with either plastisol coat or heat shrink and electric tape in a pinch. These components are commercially available thru most equipment distributors as a "center rod contact assembly"

Ron Landrette
plating equipment supplier - Bristol, Connecticut



To minimize searching and offer multiple viewpoints, we combined multiple threads into the dialog you're viewing. Please forgive any resultant repetition.



(2000)

Q. As a person maintaining a plating line, I wonder about the state of the technology. We barrel plate small items with Nickel, Gold, and Lead. The danglers in our process are practically home made. I'm just wondering how often they should be cleaned and/or if there is better dangler materials that 'clean up' easier then what ours do now.

Once a week I have to beat off the hardened plating material from the danglers. It seems like there should be a better way by now. (No one who works in our company now had anything to do with the setup of our line, and none have experience in the field so they wouldn't know if there are new processes.)

Thank you.

Kevin J [last name deleted for privacy by Editor]
- Harrisburg, Pennsylvania USA


(2000)

A. Hi, Kevin. Electropolishing of the stainless steel dangler knobs can help to passivate them and smooth them so that this undesired metal buildup will have less tooth and can be more easily removed. Also, you should make sure that the plastic sleeves are in very good condition so no more of the metal is exposed than absolutely necessary, and certainly not the ends of the braided copper cables.

You might also talk to manufacturers who specialize in danglers.

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey


(2000)

Sorry I didn't mention this. The dangler knobs are not stainless steel. They are golden in color, unless they are a special type of stainless. Should we use stainless?

I'm an electrical engineer that knows nothing of plating, but I have to keep the line running. No one is really familiar with the technology. Heck how do you electro polish? Understand I'm stuck in a hard place, I can't buy material or talk directly with suppliers, but they want me to look at the process to see if it can be improved, which I've done with other parts of the business. The people who do the buying don't ask about new processes, stuck in the 'it works why fix it' mode.

Thank you for your help.

Kevin J [returning]
- Harrisburg, Pennsylvania USA


(2000)

A. Although they might not be stainless, despite their golden color, I'd bet they are.

I can't give you advice about what waves you should or shouldn't make, but you won't be able to fix anything without making changes. And you shouldn't be fixing and home-brewing danglers -- you should buy new ones from a plating equipment supplier.

You might see if your employer will spring for a training course in electroplating, offered by the American Electroplaters & Surface Finishers Society or by Kushner Electroplating School. Or you might attend a few local evening meetings of the AESF; there is a branch in Philadelphia. Good luck.

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey


January 12, 2009

A. Get proper danglers. We plate zinc and ours are made of copper cable rubberized outside - it prevents the buildup along the cable and only the contact ends are exposed metal. We don't clean them at all - no need! they get a bit "plated" but once they go back to acid pickle they come out like new.
We get ours through a local electroplating distributor.

Joanna Yu
fasteners - Vancouver, BC, Canada



(1995)

Q. I RECENTLY EXPERIENCED TROUBLE WITH A PLASTIC SLEEVE FOR A CENTER HUB IN A BARREL. THIS SUPPLY OF SLEEVES WERE A WHITE PLASTIC TYPE MATERIAL THAT WAS SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT IN APPEARANCE THAN THE NORMAL SUPPLY. THESE HUBS TURNED CHALKY AND FELL APART AFTER 2 WEEKS. I RECALL A DISCUSSION CENTERING ON MATERIALS INCOMPATIBLE WITH HYDROCHLORIC ACID. CAN ANYONE REFRESH MY MEMORY ON WHAT WAS COVERED. THANKS,

Jeffrey Grube
- Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania


Mechanical and Corrosion-Resistant Properties of Plastics and Elastomers

(1995)

A. Jeff: You want to use polypropylene or Teflon for most applications and stay away from nylon, which tends to embrittle. Good luck from PlaterB

berl stein
berl sig
"PlaterB" Berl Stein
NiCoForm, Inc.
supporting advertiser
Rochester, New York

nicoform


(1995)

A. It sounds like either the new parts are nylon as Berl suggests or, possibly that they used to be straight Teflon (resistant to everything) and they are now glass-filled Teflon (which won't hold up to hydrofluoric acid).

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey


(1995)

A. Hello Jeff, the "sleeve" you are describing was available in a material that was nylon based. This worked well for many years. The introduction of acid based solutions replacing cyanides caused a problem with this product as the acid base would attack the nylon and make it a gummy looking appearance with severe wear. This product was changed to a polyethylene based material with excellent lifespan. Your note does not state the details, but if the material is white it could be a number of starting products. If it is a "brittle" material, it may well be nylon. Teflon and polyethylene are more "bendable" of a material. Ted, news to me, glass filled Teflon?, well, you'd think it would wear better but the problem (on our end) was never the Teflon wearing out, it was the Teflon sticking to the hanger hub and wearing the barrel. is the glass Teflon a better choice?, again, it's news here      

Ron Landrette
plating equipment supplier - Bristol, Connecticut


(1995)

A. Nylon will dissolve quickly in HCl. As you describe, nylon will first turn a chalky white.

Ken Rosenblum
finishing shop - Minneapolis, Minnesota


(1995)

A. Hi, Ron. One supplier I was with tried various materials for the bearing surface of the idler gear. In other words, the idler rotated on a stationary shaft, and the polypro the idler gear was made of wore too quickly, and the bore hogged out, etc., So we wanted a replaceable bushing and we tried many materials. For that particular application Teflon proved to be too soft, it would "flow" out under the heavy load. We had about equal life from glass-filled Teflon and from UHMW polyethylene.

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey


(1995)

A. Hi Ted, well,that makes a little more sense here,I thought you knew someone trying it as a barrel end bushing. My best experience for gear bushings is u.h.m.w. it seems to be the most tolerant, although delrin works good as well if kept from the solution. c.y.a ... ron

Ron Landrette
plating equipment supplier - Bristol, Connecticut


Suggested Way to Bring Power to Titanium Plating Basket

August 17, 2017 -- this entry appended to this thread by editor in lieu of spawning a duplicative thread

Q. We have a plating department at my place of work and have continuously struggled with how to energize the plating baskets. We've gone back and forth between titanium baskets with a copper wire attached directly to the basket (which causes corrosion pretty quickly on the wire and lug) or running titanium buss bar out of the bath and making our connections behind the line. Either way, our connections don't last very long whether they are in the bath or behind. Some employees here suggest continuing to use costly titanium, which holds up great to corrosion but is an extremely poor conductor and generates quite a bit of heat. Others suggest using copper and replacing it routinely due to it being more cost effective. Is there a better solution, such as tin plated copper or soldering our joints?

Thank you

Al Fontaine
Facilities Specialist & Plating Maintenance Manager - Lincoln, Rhode Island


August 2017

A. Hi Al. We appended your inquiry to this thread because I believe that a manufacturer of 'plating barrel danglers' or 'plating racks' could easily design a really proper cable arrangement for you.

Regards,

pic of Ted Mooney
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey
Striving to live "Aloha"


October 16, 2017

A. Hello, you can use ticlad, titanium over copper, its pricey. I would suggest a titanium EAR off of the basket, and then a cable connection coated with air dry plastisol.

Ron Landrette
plating equipment supplier - Bristol, Connecticut



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