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CARC paint is blistering from aluminum parts




2007

Q. Using one-part CARC paint (tan), spraying wash primer, and epoxy primer drying after primer.
CARC is bubbling in different spots: everything will peel off under bubble down to metal.
BTW, it's on alum.

John Heet
paint employee - Anniston, Alabama


ACRONYMS:

CARC = Chemical Agent Resistant Coating

A. John,

Is this process being carried out on bare aluminum? If it is it would suggest a pre-cleaning problem before the application of the etch primer. Check that the surface is fully degreased and cleaned and that once cleaned the parts are not handled with bare hands as this will re-contaminate the surface.

Brian Terry
Aerospace - Yeovil, Somerset, UK
2007


Q. Yes, bare aluminum. It is being washed before but not sure how or with what, We are water break testing it also.
The parts are being handled after washing but it bubbles nowhere near where was touched.

John Heet
- Anniston, Alabama
2007



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A. John,

As it is blistering right down to the base metal and not between layers of paint it would indicate either a surface contamination problem or a wash primer problem.
Ensure that the parts are kept clean before painting, possibly even use a final solvent clean before painting. Once cleaned ensure all operators wear gloves when handling the parts (just in case, you'd be amazed how easy it is to get fingerprints in areas you wouldn't expect).
The wash primer I take it, is a single part primer and that you haven't thinned it. Check that it is in life, if it isn't this may be causing you a problem.

Brian Terry
Aerospace - Yeovil, Somerset, UK
2007



simultaneous replies

A. Do a vigorous epoxy stir avoiding air inclusions.
Evacuate (vacuum pump) the air from your EPOXY.
Surface must be degreased and dry it.
Apply epoxy in a laminar regime. Wait a couple hours in the case of heat the Epoxy

Jose Castellanos
- Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA
2007


2007

A. Dear John, Here is another point of view approaching your problem from a different direction altogether. First, we have to establish what your painting system consists of:
1)Wash primer -- There are two types of paint that can be classed as "wash primer" a) A two pack. B) Single pack. Single pack was originally formulated for use in dip tanks for long-term stability. One pack (the better) for spraying but once the catalyst is added the pot life may only be a few hours. Once a one pack is mixed, it is essential that a short time delay (5-10 mins) be allowed for a chemical reaction to start prior to application.
2)Epoxy primer -- The name "epoxy primer" covers a multitude of epoxy blended resins, pure epoxy, epoxy modified and resin modified with epoxy. For full cure to take place varies from 8 hours for resin-modified epoxies up to 7 days for your full-blown epoxy.
3)CARC paint -- Chemical agent resistant coatings are based on resin systems such as polyureas and polyurethane-type materials. In addition, there are pigments for colour and solvents to aid application. These solvents consist of very strong but necessary blend of acetate and ketone type materials.

My point being are you using the right type of wash primer?
Depending upon the type of epoxy primer -- full or a blend -- is sufficient drying time being allowed for through drying to take place?

If not, when the CARC paint is applied the strong solvents within the top paint may start to attack the (under-cured) applied coatings underneath causing the defect that you describe.

Your problems may not stem from the above evaluation but at least it is an alternative approach for you to consider.

Terry Hickling
Birmingham, United Kingdom


2007

thumbs up signIt seems that we may have found the problem, Either to thick of a primer coat or not enough dry time.
We have been drying for 45 mins @ 135 °F
I took a closer look and it bubbled kinda around brackets were overspray would build up thicker than the rest.

John Heet
- Anniston, Alabama USA



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A. We process very complicated aluminum parts with extensive masking with the CARC system daily. Adhesion on aluminum is always a little tricky. The water break test mentioned does not tell the whole story. It will test for surface contamination only. Aluminum oxide on the surface will pass a water break test because it reacts the same as the base metal. In our experience, the parts should be deoxidized and or chemical Iridite prior to prime. Surface oxides will cause blistering and delamination from the base material. Cure time of the primer varies with thickness as you have noted. If you talk to the paint suppliers, they will tell you that a full cure of the primer is not required before topcoat. I do not recommend this procedure. Also, the type of thinner used in the primer should be varied with ambient temperature and relative humidity. See product data sheet for recommendations. Precise measurement of thinner additions is critical to proper adhesion of this product. Utilize a #2 Zahn cup to verify each batch.

Bruce Wheeler
- New Haven, Connecticut USA
September 17, 2010




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