Where the
world gathers for metal finishing
Q&As since 1989


-----

Metal, steel, patina, paint, color, finishing

I am also looking for the same techniques but rather for sculptures. Let me know if you find something.

Jon Mohr
- Berrien Springs Michigan, USA
2002

---

I am a small artist in southwest Florida that works in steel. I'd like to know if anyone knows a way to change the colors or properties of steel by using (i.e. thick or thin fluids). Or any ideas pertaining to the ability of changing color of steel through heat.

Thank you, All your help would be greatly appreciated.

Richard Edward Murray
Riksart - Sarasota, Florida, USA
2003

---

Have you found ways to color/patina steel? I am too an artist and am looking for ways to change the color of steel and other metals.

Thank you,

Mary Wahrer
- Kettering, Ohio, USA
2004

---

Hi This for Jon Mohr & Richard Murray & Mary Wahrer. There is a web site called RonYoungPatina.com I'm using his products now.

I do copper art for the garden & patio I'm just starting to do steel.

Richard Vandagriff
Rainy Day Arts - Salem, Oregon USA
2004

I'm doing a large run of steel post caps and I need a light brown patina for the final product. Do you have any recipes?

Josh Solly
Log Restoration Systems - Ketchum, Idaho, USA
2006

I own a metalworking business,(Inner Metal Works)that deals with art and architectural metal. I often have the occasion to antique carbon steel. I like to use a product called Oxpho-Blue [affil links] by Brownells. The Creme formula works best for my purposes. You can produce lots of variation in the color and look of the patina by employing different methods of application. Multiple coats, timing, brushes, sponges, etc. It is easy to produce browns, blacks, and dark blue greens. Very rich looking colors that take a little time to perfect but look like nothing else I've found. This is a gun blueing acid and should be handled with care. Presto-black by Birchwood Casey [on eBay & --> Amazon] also works well. Use cold rolled steel when possible or "P&O" (Pickled and Oiled) in the heavier gauges for the easiest application. Hot roll steel has a mill scale that is hard to get through. Hope this helps

Brian Fredella
- Bedford, Texas. USA
December 24, 2010

---

March 7, 2011

I am an artist and have been using the same chemicals I have used on my bronze sculptures to color steel plates. Chemicals such as bismuth nitrate for whites, copper nitrate [affil links] for blues and greens, ferric for yellows, etc. These are applied with torch so I assumed the plates would be dry but I have been having a problem with rust.

I have applied one coat of Rustoleum clear gloss on front, back and sides of the plates. I thought if I could seal it away from oxygen, it wouldn't rust.

Any suggestions? I am really frustrated because I have succeeded in doing realistic pictures with these patina chemicals and I have an art show in May. Help!

Deidre Daugherty
Artist - Sacramento, California, US