-- The Home Page of the Finishing Industry

on this site
current topics

60,000 Q&A topics -- Education, Aloha, & Fun

topic 15625

Finish for stainless steel to prevent galvanic action with aluminum

A discussion started in 2002 but continuing through 2019


Q. I am submerging an instrument we manufacture in non-salt water, but the water may be hard, and it stays there for weeks or months. I am using a black hard anodize coating with Teflon seal for the aluminum. I use stainless steel screws for assembly of the instrument. We still seem to be seeing some corrosion of the aluminum where the screws are.

It could be that the screw scrapes off part of the anodize/Teflon and then we see corrosion of the aluminum.

It could be that some galvanic reaction between the screw and aluminum takes place that promotes corrosion. I think I have the best aluminum treatment for my application with the black anodize with a Teflon coating. Does anyone know of a treatment for stainless steel that is dielectric, i.e. it inhibits electrical conductivity between the aluminum 'housing' and the stainless screws, which would, I believe, reduce the galvanic action and any corrosion it promotes. Really I'm trying to do anything which helps and minimizes the corrosion; it doesn't have to be a complete solution.


Steve Kerrigan
- St. Paul, Minnesota


A. I have had success using high phosphorus electroless nickel on the stainless steel screws in contact with bare aluminum 6061.

don baudrand
Don Baudrand
Consultant - Poulsbo, Washington
(Don is co-author of the book "Plating on Plastics")


A. An approach you might try would be to add a third metal that is more active than either the stainless or aluminum (like zinc or magnesium). As long as all three metals are in electrical contact with each other the most active metal will corrode first. One thing to be careful of is when you couple dissimilar metals is the ratio of surface areas of the joined two metals. For example, if instead you did not anodize the aluminum you might predict that the resulting corrosion would be slow and uniform over the entire surface of the aluminum. However, by anodizing the aluminum you have protected the surface of the aluminum - now when you get a scratch in the anodize,the resulting corrosion will be greatly accelerated.

Hope this helps!

John Bauchat
- Milford, New Hampshire


A. 18-8 Stainless steel has no reaction with aluminum. Make sure that your screws are 18-8 type material. Also 300 series stainless will work. Just don't use any 400 series stainless steel as it is magnetic (has higher carbon content) which is the reaction problem.

Bill Trobaugh
- Richmond, Virginia


I am interested by Bill Trobaugh comment regarding 18-8 stainless steel reaction to aluminum. Does the 18-8 stainless steel still not react with aluminum in a sea water environment.

Phil Chambers
- EASTBOURNE, East Sussex, England

Hi Bill; hi Phil. Everyone is encouraged to offer their opinion and we thank Bill for his. However, I don't really agree that magnetism or carbon content has much to do with galvanic reaction. Stainless and aluminum are fairly far apart galvanically, so, under bad & salty environmental conditions galvanic corrosion can occur. But stainless steel hardware is commonly used on anodized aluminum balcony railings and similar situations without it causing a major problem in many cases. Galvanic corrosion can often be a subtle issue rather than a go/no-go one :-)


Ted Mooney, Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. - Pine Beach, New Jersey
Striving to live Aloha


Q. While searching for info on galvanic reaction between stainless steel and galvanized steel I found Bill Trobough's comment that 18-8 stainless does not react with galvanized steel^aluminum. Does anyone know how 400 series stainless reacts with galvanized steel and how they both react with 30 micron anodized aluminium. They will be used outdoors and we would like a life expectancy of 20+ years.

Bernard Warren
- UK

March 2015

A. Hi Bernard. That's probably not a good idea. I don't think you should have metal-to-metal contact if you are mixing galvanizing, aluminum, and stainless steel and want a 20+ year outdoor life.


Ted Mooney, Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. - Pine Beach, New Jersey
Striving to live Aloha


A. Go to and look at the section an GALVANIC CORROSION. It also has a list of materials and which would be the anodic end and which would be the cathodic end.

Ray, Chem Eng
- Louisville, Kentucky


A. We fabricate and install powder coated aluminum rails on ocean front homes for 20 years. Corrosion is a constant problem in this area. we have had success with powder coating over unsealed clear anodizing, however failures do sometime occur mostly in the cast flanges. we have been running a side by side real world test on one project chromic acid conversion coat vs anodizing and we have found that after 1 year the only noticeable failure is not in the test area (drilled hole and broken surface) but where the 18-8 st. st. screw (probably broke the finish) mounts the flange to the deck. this is occurring on the chromate flanges only. this leads me to believe that the problem is more likely the galvanic reaction between the st. st. and the aluminum than the aluminum oxidation undermining the powder/conversion coat because the exposed test area shows no sign of failure.

Richard Morrone
- Port Reading, New Jersey


A. I have worked on plenty of marine hardware and the big problem is using two dissimilar metals. That will eat you up every time. The best I've been able to do to keep it down when there is no other choice is use a marine sealing compound between the hardware. Makes a much better seal than just the anodization.

Randall Dannemann
- Huntsville, Alabama


A. Would a fiber/rubber washer work in this application?

Jeff Friesen
- Winnipeg, MB, Canada

February 21, 2008

A. 1. The box for our aluminium foil contains the warning: "Do not cover stainless steel plates or dishes with the foil" along with the one about nor using it in a microwave.
2. My wife steams an egg custard (leche flan). The custard is in an aluminium cake tin which she covers with alfoil and places in a stainless steel pan. The inner bottom of this pan has become extremely dull and discoloured.

Richard Dobie
- Sydney, NSW, Australia

3M Marine Sealant

May 19, 2008

A. Just came across your problem while addressing an identical problem of my own. Hard anodising (not chromic) but thick sulphuric anodising, around 100 microns, will provide electrical insulation between the bolt and aluminium and prevent electrolytic activity. Put a thin preferably soft washer in there to prevent the anodising being scratched (though it's pretty tough).

Other precautions you can adopt are sealing of the connection with a sealant =>
or paint, or using bolts with plating nearer the electrochemical series no. stainless.

David Simpson
Engineering Consultancy - Luton, UK

May 7, 2009

A. Steve,

Aluminum will sacrifice to 18-8 stainless steel fasteners unless you put an aluminum topcoat on them.

Ron Stokes
- Atlanta, Georgia

March 29, 2010

A. If you use Silicone rubber sealant [paid link to product info at Amazon] or Loctite 243 [paid link to product info at Amazon] on the 18-8 screw threads it will stop some local corrosion as well be sure to use a Magnesium anode that has a proper electrical connection to the aluminum housing.

We have used this technique and seen over 12 years of service if the anode is changed out periodically.

Christopher Nicholson
- Falmouth , Massachusetts

April 22, 2010

A. My response to the initial question of SS screws used on an anodized aluminum box: Is it possible that you paint or seal the bolt/screw heads to prevent moisture entering the contact area?

The other option which has already been mentioned is by "wet-installing" your bolts with some sort of paint, primer or sealer. Cover the bolts and install them before the paint dries.

I've seen both of these techniques used in the aviation industry which has strict regulations with regard to salt spray testing and failures.

(I can't guarantee success and I am not allowed to provide a professional opinion on behalf of my company.)

Paul Mak
- Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

June 11, 2010

Q. Hi
I install Aluminium Balustrade in a coastal area and have had problems with corrosion.
I have powdercoated aluminium bracket with internal thread that takes a 316 S/S bolt. After approx. 3 years, corrosion has started. Is there a product that can insulate the S/S from the aluminium with success?
Thanks for your input.


Mark Hatton
Metal Fabricator - QLD AUSTRALIA

August 21, 2010

A. Hi, Mark

If the problem is that the internal threads of the aluminum casting are corroding, then the materials previously mentioned may be of some help in reducing the contact and protecting the internal threads.

But not all corrosion is galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals; if the problem is general corrosion of the outside of the item, I personally doubt that the stainless steel screw is a major contributor -- rather that the problem is inadequate pretreatment or powder coating. Are the components chromate conversion coated or anodized before powder coating?


Ted Mooney, Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. - Pine Beach, New Jersey
Striving to live Aloha

February 14, 2015

Q. Thank you for your mentions above. I recently try to use stainless screw to fix and connect aluminum truss. The aluminum is A5052, A6061 and A6063. I'm not sure whether 300 series stainless steel (8-18 stainless steel) has no electric reaction with aluminum.

As I know aluminum has higher galvanic corrosion tendency than steel and stainless steel. Also, I found some information about this problem at

"Stainless Steel Screws
Stainless steel is an alloy of carbon steel that is, itself, resistant to corrosion. However, stainless steel is reactive with aluminum, and when a stainless steel screw is in contact with an aluminum base metal, the aluminum is likely to corrode. As is the case with carbon steel screws, a plated stainless steel screw is less likely to corrode aluminum; screws treated with a high-quality coating consisting of zinc and aluminum flakes are especially resistant to corrosion."

Daniel Yu
- Seoul, Korea

February 7, 2018

We have recently developed special hard anodizing for SS (400-series) that is electrically isolated. This will help on contact with aluminum. If you are concerned on SS300-series, like 316 or similar, contact us, and we will investigate this for you.

Anna Berkovich
Russamer Lab
supporting advertiser 
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania 
russamer labs banner

August 27, 2019

Q. I have a question resulting from the string of answers: I have old painted metal rusting doors. I'm in the process of removing the rust, then I will treat the metal before I repaint it. Next, I plan to reinforce and cosmetically fix the bottom with a pre-painted aluminum flashing secured to the door with an 18-8 stainless self tapping screw. Question: I understand that the steel will corrode the aluminum. Can I use a silicon washer under the screw head to reduce the corrosion? Or maybe, its not necessary with the paint? Or maybe, the entire idea is crazy for by introducing the aluminum, I'm creating a bigger problem? I'm hoping it'll last at least another 20 years. Any thoughts, or suggestions?

Michael Klinger
Mini Storage - Poulsbo, Washington, USA

August 2019

A. Hi Michael. Although it is possible to isolate bolts and screws from the metals they are connecting, it's more complicated than a washer under the screw head and involves bushings (tubes) as well.

I think I would make sure all of the steel is well painted, and all of the aluminum is well painted, and call it done.

If you wanted to truly isolate the steel from the aluminum you would need to put a thin non-conductive gasket, like visqueen poly sheeting between the steel and aluminum, and add a bushing along with the washer so the stainless screws don't touch the aluminum.


pic of Ted Mooney
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET - Pine Beach, New Jersey
Striving to live Aloha is possible thanks to our supporting advertisers, including this one:


Q, A, or Comment on THIS thread SEARCH for Threads about ... My Topic Not Found: Start NEW Thread

Disclaimer: It's not possible to diagnose a finishing problem or the hazards of an operation via these pages. All information presented is for general reference and does not represent a professional opinion nor the policy of an author's employer. The internet is largely anonymous & unvetted; some names may be fictitious and some recommendations may be deliberately harmful.

  If you need a product/service, please check these Directories:

JobshopsCapital Equip. & Install'nChemicals & Consumables Consult'g, Train'g, SoftwareEnvironmental Compliance

©1995-2020, Inc., Pine Beach, NJ   -   About   -  Privacy Policy
How Google uses data when you visit this site.