How do I restore a cast iron wood burning stove 

Letter 11428


1     2


++++++

Do cast iron stoves need a real chimney for venting? I have been given an old cast iron stove that is is need of some TLC to bring it back to life, which is what I want to do and put it in my new living room. The only question I have is does it require to be situated in a chimney or can it just be vented out of a wall like a gas boiler flue is? I don't have a chimney and have never had a stove before so I would really appreciate some advice, and by the way, the answers regarding cleaning it up and bringing it back to its former glory are great and I will take up the wire wool, polish and elbow grease options! I've looked in catalogues but they never show the exact top of it and so I am not sure how it functions. In anticipation, Thanks!!

Mrs Brenda Jlast name deleted
housewife - Dursley, Gloucestershire, England


++++++

There may be building codes about this in your area, but no, you do not need a real chimney. What you probably do need is a "double wall flue" (that's what I have, although my vent is vertical though the roof). This assures that the hot inner wall of the flue cannot touch anything flammable.


Ted Mooney, P.E. 
finishing.com
Brick, New Jersey


++++++

Din't go frettin! I just call my mom in Tenn. askin her how to clean up my rusty wood burner, she said to use a steel brush and get it all off, then take soon old grease or oil don't matter, take a rag wipe it down real good. best to be out side, then start a fire and burn it for a couple hrs, and i did and it looks great.

Roberta Rlast name deleted
- Monterey, Indiana


+++++++

To restore a cast iron stove, (I just restored an old Florin Pot Belly from Lancaster Co. Pa.) you have to wire brush the rust scale off and wipe off with a rag. If you can sandblast or use a wire wheel, it will go faster. After you clean it up, use stove polishing compound, stove black, to really bring out it's beauty. It's a labour of love.(And a little elbow grease.)

Larry Pieller
- Emple, Pennsylvania


+++++++

I was given an old cast iron outdoor fireplace that is rusted. I would like to know what to do to restore it to the beautiful black it once was. I have purchased a can of Krylon, BBQ and Stove paint along with a wire brush. I took the brush to it, but some rust remains. I am wondering if I need to remove ALL rust before painting, how to do so if necessary and if I have purchased the right product.
I would appreciate any and all help you can offer... or direct me to another website that could be of some assistance.

Debra Higgins
hobbyist - Tacoma, Washington


+++++++

My father died in a fire fixing an old Grader for a friend. The welding tanks exploded and hydraulic fluid drenched him and burned 60% of his body. Would of lived to beat least a 100 I know. I have a big Home Comfort Stove in great shape that was my fathers I want to restore ,but time is not in my life right now. I am awful at puzzles and putting things back together what is the best solution?

Candy Bright
do it yourself - Maryville, Tennessee


+++++++

Sorry for your loss. If you have no time, no aptitude, and probably no interest, the thing to do is to find a handyman rather than to punish yourself with the project.


Ted Mooney
finishing.com
Brick, New Jersey


+++++++

Stove is sandblasted, bolts okay, fire box okay problem: Square stove made up of four side panels. There are small spaces between each panel. We assume they should be closed. Considering sealing with muffler cement. What do you think? We do not want to ruin a great stove.

Cecile Fite
- Greenwood, South Carolina


+++++++

any one know of any good sites to buy old stove parts?
thanks.
tim

tim peterson
- goodlettsville, Tennessee


+++++++

Regarding black stove polish, I am restoring a Fairmount wood burning stove that I do not plan to heat because the block has a large crack in it however I do not want to paint it because maybe I will repair the stove in the future. I would like to use the black stove polish but many of the postings say you need to burn the stove in order to get a proper finish? What should I do? How would the polish work if I did not heat the stove? Thanks

Glenn Govostes
- Georgetown, Massachusetts


+++++++

I am an amateur. I just finished my first and only wood stove which I bought last weekend at a local antiques dealer. It's a lovely Wood & Bishop stove with a "thing" at the top that looks like the Holy Grail. It was badly rusted, but I took it home anyhow because it was only selling for $150 and I was desperate for a stove. I live in Maine, and the cost of oil is beyond what I could ever handle.

I used WD 40. I used to work with a locksmith, and this is what we used to remove dirt, rust, whatever, and also lubricate stiff locks. It was also good for my old furnace, when the screws were so rusty they would otherwise need to be cut off. But WD 40 took all that off, and also cleaned and lubricated the screw threads. So I thought I would try it on the stove. It was worth a shot before I tried sandblasting or a blow torch.

It worked. The rust, which was like tough orange barnacles, absorbed the WD 40, which softened it and then it came right off with paper towels. There were lovely embossed decorative patterns on all sides, and the WD 40 was absorbed into all the angles, and made the rust soft and easily removed.

Last phase was that after I wiped the WD 40 off, I noticed some of the smooth rounded mouldings were pitted. So I sprayed WD 40 on them, and let it sit, and then wiped it again, and all of the pit marks were easily removed.

The "Holy Grail" at the top was entirely covered with rust to the point where I could not see what it looked like, and again, sprayed it heavily with WD 40 and all of the rust came off. I did the same to rusty patches on the inside of the stove, and the screws that hold it together are now clean also.

The whole process took minutes at a time, though I did have to wait for the WD 40 to sink in before rubbing.

Seems to me, this is a good and gently way to clean off the rust. Now, I need to find out what to do next for blackening and also, if there is a way to re-nickle the "Holy Grail" on top. I also believe that a trivet might be missing under it, but I don't know. I searched the net, but couldn't find a photo of the exact model.

Erika Donneson
- Saco, Maine


+++++++

I am trying to locate a source for rope gasket used between plates on a decorative cast iron wood burning stove I acquired some years ago. The stove is rectangular in shape with a forest scene on its sides. I do not know the manufacturer. Any suggestions on locating a source or the application of the gasket material once it is located?

Carolyn S. Desmond
hobbyist - El Dorado, Kansas

----
Ed. note: Follow the link, Carolyn -->


+++++++

Purchased at an Estate Auction a Jacobs Manufacturing, Bridgeport, Al wood burning kitchen stove...Model #88-18. Would very much like to have the right hand end shelf that attaches to it. Have been researching this for sometime now and am coming up empty handed. If anyone has any ideas or solutions would greatly appreciate a reply. Thanks!

Carole Lowe
- Burlington, North Carolina


January 6, 2008

I have an old cast iron wood heater that was given to me because my fireplace wasn't putting off enough heat. It had to be installed immediately because we were freezing. We didn't have the time to clean all the rust off and refinish it properly.

Well, my cast iron pans are easy enough to refurbish, just cover them with cooking oil or grease and heat them up several times. So we employed the same principal with the wood stove. I just spread a thin coating of used peanut oil over the stove while it was hot and now it's beautiful. I have pictures of when I started and after I worked on it for about 15 minutes.

It did smoke a bit after applying the oil but not much. I think the results were well worth the bit of smoke we had to put up with.

Stephanie Lowery
- Gastonia, North Carolina


January 11, 2008

TO CAROLE LOWE, I have a Glenwood F iron cook stove, one of the black iron type with nickel trim. It is missing a shelf on one side, and I have visited and written to folks who sell and restore them, but the response is always the same: They have dozens of these shelves, but don't want to part with them. The reason is because they make a lot more money restoring and selling a whole stove than they would if they sold me one shelf.

Erika Donneson
- Saco, Maine


February 16, 2008

I HAVE AN OLD SEARS WOODBURNING SMALL STOVE THAT I WOULD LIKE TO MAKE INTO A PLANT STAND. IT IS QUITE RUSTY AND STILL LOOKS GOOD FROM THE OUTSIDE, NO CRACKS, BREAKS, ETC. WHAT COULD I DO TO CLEAN IT UP AND IMPROVE ITS' LOOKS.. I AM GOING TO PUT THE PLANT POTS INTO THE OPENINGS IN THE TOP OF THE STOVE AND IT WILL SIT ON MY PORCH..SINCE I LIVE IN ARIZONA THE WEATHER ISN'T THAT BAD SO IT SHOULD STAY NICE FOR A LONG TIME, THANK YOU FOR ANY SUGGESTIONS YOU MAY HAVE...

MICHAELA FITZGERALD
HOBBYIST - YUMA, ARIZONA


October 1, 2008

Hi All, I'm restoring a rusted out Brand Stove Co no 118 industrial kitchen stove that was in a cabin we just bought. It's a double oven with the fire box in between, large old stove. Just can't find much information on this company. All the cast parts are good but I need to replace all the box metals, sides, oven boxes, etc. Its around a 100 years old, guessing, and from a restaurant in San Francisco. Thanks for any help here!

Ron Slater
hobbyist - Woodland, California


October 13, 2008

I live in South Africa and my work recently rented an old farmhouse, which we repaired and cleaned for field staff. In the storeroom we found an old stove. The owner of the farm is not sure, but thinks its about 50 - 60 years old. The brand name is Coronet and apart from the iron bits, it is enameled. The colours are pale green and cream. We took it apart, remove the slight rust with a wirebrush and cleaned it. Its back in the farmhouse and I've used it twice. Its chimney at the back is gone, but we placed it under the original hearth chimney of the house. At first it smokes a lot, smoke coming out from underneath the plates - although the plates are in perfect nick. I don't know if its a coal or gas stove, and the owner can only remember that his mother used wood - how does one determine which it is? And how can I stop the initial smoking? Both times I've used it for cooking and it cooks beautiful, you just have to start well in advance. Also, I can't find any information on the brand, Coronet. Has anyone heard of it before? The inside of the oven is also enameled. I have to find somewhere in SA to get wood stove polish, so far no one seems to know where one can buy it. I read somewhere that to see the "leaks" one can put a light in the firebox and see where the light leaks out. These then should be fixed with stove or furnace cement - does this sound right to those in the know?

Mel Gardiner
hobbyist - Garies, Northern Cape, South Africa


October 14, 2008

I found an cast iron wood burning stove in Montana, it was in very bad condition(rust) and I wanted to bring it home with plans to clean it up. I want it back in working order. On the way back to California the part that holds on the front legs broke, Can Cast iron be welded at all, and if so how? I don't know anything about this stove except it is a 2 burner with a swinging front door and was made in Holland. It is in very bad condition, if anyone knows anything about the stove or helpful tips on re-finishing please help!

Katie Miller
hobbyist - El Dorado, California


November 6, 2008

Hi everyone! Just wanted to share some tips that I used in restoring my first cast iron wood burning heating stove! It was a Cribben & Sexton. (I am currently working on my second-a Round Oak) The best way to do it right is to take the stove totally apart. It might sound like a huge job but it is worth it to do it right. On the first one I took the time to remove all of the nuts & bolts etc which took a lot of time & most were not salvageable anyway. On this stove I just broke all of the bolts & will replace them. I then took a big plastic bin & filled it with vinegar & let the cast iron pieces soak for at least 24 hours. Vinegar is very cheap! The rust comes right off! If there is some stubborn rust, scrub it (I use a Dremel [link is to product info at Amazon]) and put it in the vinegar again. Only use this on the cast iron parts! For the parts that need polishing I sand them until the pits are gone & then continue to use finer grits. I finish it all off with SimiChrome [link is to product info at Amazon] & the final result looks amazing!

Lori Smith
- Turlock, California


March 5, 2009

As I scanned through this thread I was surprised to see no one mention use of a product called "Naval Jelly [link is to product info at Amazon]" to dissolve rust. I refinished a 1985 vintage cast iron Consolidated Dutchwest stove that had been in a damp barn and was covered with surface rust this way. You can buy it at any auto parts store that features body working products like Bondo [link is to product info at Amazon], and you simply brush it on, let it sit for five or ten minutes, then wash it off with water. Wire brush any heavy deposits and reapply and repeat. After this I simply painted the parts with high temp black stove paint and I have been using the stove for 4 years without any refinishing.

I also have a vintage Century Crawford kitchen stove that I intend to refinish in exactly the same way. I would have used the blasting method but it is extremely messy and requires too many special tools for the average person. The blasting gun and media is pretty cheap, but a high volume air compressor to run can be problematic for the average do it yourselfer, unless like me your other hobby is playing with old cars....

Grant Marques
- Wethersfield, Connecticut


April 25, 2009

Need a Picture of the Original Muscogee Wood/Coal Cook Stove No. 86-16. I bought a Muscogee Wood cook stove and need information about it i can find it on the net .. It's missing a door just under the oven ..and I would like to replace it with something that looks like the original.
Thanks for any help!

Janet Stuart
bought an old stove - Colville Washington


May 27, 2009

I didn't see an answer how to fill the gaps on a square stove where the sides don't completely touch. What product similar to "chinking" used for log cabins should I use??

G.D.Clark IV
- Eureka, California


September 6, 2009

I'm in the process of refinishing a stove and have found electrolysis does a great job of removing rust. I follow that with a fine wire brush and Scotchbright finishing pad. Rutland Stove Polish [link is to product info at Amazon] finishes it off and no damage has been done to the underlying metal.

Kathy Hodgen
- east berlin, Pennsylvania


September 13, 2009

I have a Eureka wood burning kitchen cook stove. It was made by the -Eureka, steel range co. in O Fallon Ill. I think the model number is E8-4N. It need the slide part to the air regulator that mounts on the side. I think the stove is 80 to 100 years old. Help please?

JOE JOHNSON
HOBBYIST - MORONGO VALLEY, CALIFORNIA


September 28, 2009

Need more info on this Muscogee cook stove, looking at one that is up for sale. Looks to be in good complet condition. (and how to post a picture of it)

Jan Kiker
Welding & Fabrication - Midland, Texas

----
Ed. note: e-mail the pic to mooney@finishing.com, referencing letter 11428, please


October 2, 2009

I am using Hedi electrically cleaning of an old Atlanta Stove, I hope it works

I started with wirebrushing with power drill, bah!
looked at Evaporust, looks good but $21.00 gallon plus freight,

i will post result when i get them

thanks Hedi

Vernon Zellers
- Walnut Cove, North Carolina


October 12, 2009

For gaps and cracks: Grind and clean, stove cement on inside of crack (clean and wetten surfaces first), stove silicone on outside. If crack is structural get it welded or at least JB weld it, unless you want a pile of burning wood in your living room.

For finishing: Graduated coarsenessses of wire wheel brushes, drill mount and go to town, start coarse go to fine, then some steel wool all over and a spray down with some compressed air or a leaf blower. Then some solvent or brakeclean to clean surface, then some high temp paint. The stove black is nasty stuff and can rub off very easily on clothes, etc. Also looks lousy and cant be painted over.

Also make sure your paint and cement is rated to at least 1000 degrees. The silicone needs only about 450 because its on the exterior. Electrolysis weakens metal and is a quick way to get electrocuted/rupture a battery. Stove black isnt the weapon of choice anymore for a reason. Hand wire brushes are not helpful and will only aggravate you.

L. Jay
- NEK, Vermont


October 20, 2009

Hi Y'all rust is bad and can just ruin a stove. You got to get it all off or it grows like mold, now you can't be in a rush and do a good job, so this is what you do, so you go get yourself some sandpaper now just cut off a little piece the size of three fingers and now you go counter clockwise until it's all gone.

Wilma Jones
- ridgway Pennsylvania


October 20, 2009

Hi, Wilma. I'm left handed. Do you think I could go clockwise, or does that make the rust grow instead of shrink?  What with lefty-loosey & righty-tighty and all :-)

Regards,


Ted Mooney
finishing.com
Brick, New Jersey


1     2


Dear Reader

Post an answer
 
Post a question
 
Report broken links


Legal disclaimer boilerplate button


List of Directories
Jobshops Directory button Environmental Directory button Equipment Directory button Consultants Directory button Chemicals Directory button Test Directory button Help-Wanted Directory button About Advertising button Classifieds Directory button Booklist button

 

Link to Del.icio.us button Save This Page (why?)    -    Home    -    ©1995-2009 finishing.com