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topic 17560 page 2

How to build a bottle cap table, page 2



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A discussion started in 2002 & continuing through 2017

Tabletop Resin

September 3, 2009

Q. I am trying to make a beer-pong table about 8' x 3', how many bottles of Kleer Kote would it take to do it?

Josh Neal
Hobbyist - Tyler, Texas


September 3, 2009

A. Hi, Josh. Multiply the length in inches times the width in inches times the depth in inches for the volume of clearcoat needed in cubic inches. A gallon is 231 cubic inches, so divide by 231 for the volume in gallons. Good luck.

Regards,


Ted Mooney, finishing.com Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey


EnviroTex

November 11, 2009

Q. Hi this is what I am trying to do: can those of you that have made these awesome tables please chime in....

I want to make a portable (either by hingeing it or just having it two separate pieces) poker table out of 3/4" plywood w/ bottle caps and then coat it with klear kote epoxy.
I have a few questions
-will 3/4" plywood be thick enough?
-would you recommend have it be pourable - will I have to worry about the clearcoat cracking because of the plywood twisting or being carried on its side?
Also I and looking for wooden chip racks/cup holders if any ones knows a good place to get them let me know

Thank you
Cole

cole Davis
- New Jersey


November 11, 2009

Hi, Cole. I haven't made a bottle cap table myself, but I've used 3/4" plywood for a plain bar top, and I've done a lot of ceramic tiling (equally brittle) on it; in one case as a stand for a 300+ pound wood stove, where the span was too great and some tiles and grout cracked over time. If you use it for playing poker or beer pong, it will be fine.

17560-5

But don't make it flimsy, or one day you'll be really really mad at yourself when there's heavy drinking & fun, and the girls are dancing on the other guys' tables -- and you have to tell them they can't dance on yours :-)

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey


November 12, 2009

thumbs up signhaha
Well I guess that will all depend on the strength of the table I put it on :-) since it will just be a table top.

Thanks again
Cole

cole Davis
- New Jersey


November 6, 2009

Q. I just poured the Epoxy Resin on my beer pong table but I don't think I mixed it very well. It's been three days and it is kinda getting harder but still really sticky but there are a couple of spots where it is still just gooey! What can I do to fix this?

Kristine Nelson
- Bradenton, Florida


November 18, 2009

Q. Hello,

I am in charge of our 5th grade class school auction project where we decided to do a bottle cap coffee table. We found a coffee table at a goodwill store that used to have glass in the center which is now missing. We thought this would be a perfect place to put the bottle caps if we attached plywood underneath the table where the glass used to be. In the meantime we wanted to order plain caps on-line, have the kids paint them, glue them to the plywood (which will have been painted by then) and then pour the epoxy-resin over the caps as the directions call for. I want to know if the epoxy will have an adverse effect on the paint the kids put on the caps. We were going to have them use paint pens, or even perhaps Sharpie markers to save money. I am getting worried about too many different elements getting into the mix, as we would be stripping the coffee table and painting it black, painting the plywood black; applying the caps and seal coats of the epoxy as I have been researching in all of your directions, I just wasn't sure about the paint on the caps, and if there was a certain paint I should use?

Beth Walker
- Nashville, Tennessee


December 9, 2009

A. Kristine,
This may be a little late to help with your predicament. The gooey/sticky undried epoxy is a result of incomplete mixing. I had this happen with one of my prototypes. I was able to scrape off most of the undried stuff and put on a new well mixed flood coat to solve the problem.

Beth,
I didn't see any reaction between any of the painted caps I used and the epoxy. The best way to be sure is to make a small test case using your desired paints and see what happens.

Good luck!
Ron

rs bottlecap table t
Ron Steele
- Northampton, Pennsylvania



December 16, 2009

i. Ron,

I used a small wooden tray and painted it black since that is the color that our coffee table will be. It turns out that paint pens are the best medium of paint to use on our caps. Since our caps were not previously covered with primer or acrylic paint, the acrylic decorative paint the kids applied just peeled right off. The sharpie markers that the art teacher recommended, blurred and ran together after the epoxy was poured on. The paint pens went on easily, were durable and showed up well after the epoxy was applied. Thanks so much for the reply. We will see how the master project goes.

Beth Walker
- Nashville, Tennessee


December 27, 2009

Q. Hello,

All of the responses on this thread have been extremely helpful so far, so thank you! I completed covering a 36" round wood table with bottle caps a little while back, and have since been debating how to cover it. Friends originally suggested a plexiglass table top, but now I am leaning toward using the epoxy because I love the way it looks.

My question is about the edges...since this is a round table with no edges that would stop the epoxy from dripping, I was planning on using removable fences. I'm just worried that the removable fences will get stuck to the epoxy as it dries, or that when I pull them off it won't be even. Does anyone know if this will happen? And if so, how can I prevent this?

Thank you so much, and the tables shown are all fantastic! I only hope mine will look half as good!

Jordan Lloyd
- Austin, Texas


December 31, 2009

Q. Hey there,
All of these projects look amazing! I'm trying to build my own beer-cap shuffle board and was wondering how smooth the kleer koat table epoxy was? A lot of shuffleboard tables I've seen use a clear gloss oil based polyurethane. Would I be able to maybe coat this on top of the epoxy covered caps/table? or is that a no go?

Ben Hintz
student - Chico, California


January 4, 2010

A. Hi Jordan,
I can't comment from personal experience regarding using a removable fence. The klear kote instructions offer some guidance on page three under advanced techniques. I have heard of others who used a temporary edge to build up the epoxy thickness followed by a final coat without the edge to allow the epoxy to run over for a better looking edge. The best advice I can offer is make a small prototype to see if the removable edge you plan to use will be successful.

www.shopmaninc.com/pdf/kkote.pdf

Hi Ben,
My bar top is super smooth thanks to the epoxy self leveling while still liquid. There is only a tiny upward curve within 1/8" of the edges where the surface tension of the epoxy crept up the wood edges a little bit. I would guess the extra polyurethane coat will be unnecessary.

Good luck with your projects!
Ron

rs bottlecap table t
Ron Steele
- Northampton, Pennsylvania



January 21, 2010

Q. I am planning on building an 8 x 4 ft beer pong table using a layer of bottle caps on top of plywood. My question is what do you guys recommend I use to glue the caps down and also cover the tops with. Please keep in mind the cover surface has to be hard enough for a good bounce with a ping pong ball. I started planning with plexiglass, but that'll cost me $90 and would prefer a cheaper solution.

Cole juelfs
- Kearney, Nebraska


January 21, 2010

A. Hi, Cole. Cost is always an object, but these bottle cap epoxy tables will unfortunately cost you more than $90 in epoxy.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey


January 28, 2010

! Your site is amazing. We're down in Southern Italy and have made a mosaic table for outdoors but have been trawling the internet for ages to work out what to seal it with to ensure protection and a flat surface. Kleer Kote will hopefully be the answer. Now the problem is how to get it to Italy! Thanks for all your input.
Chris

Chris Brunnock
- Ostuni, Bari. Italy

----
Ed. note: Thanks for the compliment, Chris, but the only thing this website did was post what people submitted. Thanks, all, for the wonderful photos and postings!


February 1, 2010

Q. Ok, so I have a 4' x 8' table covered in caps currently not glued down. Ordering the kleer epoxy shortly. I'm wondering how necessary it is to glue the caps down.

If it is, is there anything you would recommend that wouldn't require me to pick up the caps to glue them back down? Every time we pick one up it tends to mess up many other spots.

Thanks!

Emily Hoffman
- Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, USA


February 11, 2010

! Hello everyone, I am currently in the planning stages of my own folding beer cap table with a epoxy top coat. I hope it turns out as good as the ones I have seen on here. You have all given me plenty of information to work from. My table will be regulation sized as you would see in the World Series of Beer Pong. 8' x 2' x 27.5" I will report back and post my pictures when I'm done, wish me luck!

Erick Baumberger
Hobbyist - Springfield, Illinois


zr bottlecap table
February 13, 2010

i. My roommates and I have collected about 2,500 beer bottle caps and came up with this design. There's a mario with a 1 up mushroom in a speech bubble, along with 2 triangles for a game of 10 cup beer pong. we still have to pour the epoxy though... just gotta save up some money first.

[The picture is at left].

Zach Repphun
hobbyist - Kent, Ohio


February 17, 2010

Q. Just bought a 7.5' x 2' sheet of plywood, official beer pong table size. My roommates and I have saved metal beer bottle caps for over 2 years. Our goal is to make a custom beer pong table by arranging the beer caps around the wood to make a design.

1. We sanded down the plywood until it was free of anything. Next we nailed the trim around the outside, about 1/4 inch raised off the tabletop. Then took a paper towel and cleaned up any sawdust or residue. We have clear polyurethane and just applied the first coat to the wood tonight.

Our plan is to apply 3 coats of the polyurethane. On the 4th coat, we will apply it very thick, almost globbing it on, and sticking in the bottle caps as we go.

Will this plan work?

Does anyone have a way to make it better?

What do you think will be the best way to finish this project off?

Dave Browne
- Buffalo, New York, USA


March 1, 2010

Q. When pouring the epoxy is there any chance for bubbles to form due to air pushed out from beneath the bottle caps or is this generally not a concern. How should I go about sealing the bottle caps to the base of the table prior to applying the seal coat and ensuing epoxy layers. Thanks.... This is a great thread.

David Burke
amateur builder - Chattanooga, Tennessee


March 8, 2010

This page has provided a lot of great information regarding poured epoxy resin tables. We decided to go with license plates instead of bottle caps and just finished a test pour of a 2' by 2' table. We screwed the plates down and applied the resin slowly and it doesn't appear that any large pockets of air were trapped beneath the plates. We just had small bubbles from mixing.

sb license plate table

Our next step is to do a 2 ft by 12 ft counter top that is more similar in size to the Pong tables.

Scott Burnett
- Boise, Idaho


March 15, 2010

i. I'm making a table with Kleer Koat and have had problems with bubbles using a hair dryer like the directions say you can. I wouldn't recommend this and went and got a propane torch, it works easy and fast. Has anyone else had success with other means of bubble popping?

Byron Strother
Hobbyist - Denver, Colorado


March 29, 2010

A. Hi David,

Sorry for the late reply. I haven't checked this page in a while. Yes, bubbles from under the caps is a concern. In a couple of my prototypes, I had issues with bubbles emerging from under the caps after the epoxy was too hard to pop them. One explanation I read is the air under the caps expands and escapes as the epoxy temperature increases during curing. I solved this problem by using tile grout to seal around the caps. Another solution is to fill the caps with something to eliminate the air pocket.

Hi Scott,

The license plates look great. Well done!

rs bottlecap table t
Ron Steele
- Northampton, Pennsylvania



April 6, 2010

Q. I am new at the bottle cap tables and have come across a few questions. Once the caps are glued down, how do I put borders or fences around the table's edges where they are removable? Then what is the best color and type of epoxy to put on top of the caps? So that you can clearly read the caps...

Mathew Anderson
hobbyist - Auburn, Alabama


April 14, 2010

! I am making a table of my own. These postings have provided further inspiration to my idea of building a pong table. I must say that my techniques will vary slightly as I will be using ordered blank caps to achieve my design and I am going to use an acrylic sheet top (unfortunately I really can't afford the epoxy and I got a good price on the acrylic sheet). I plan to have it done within a month and will post pictures for everyone to compare.

Eric Miller
- Allentown, Pennsylvania


April 23, 2010

! I have been collecting bottle caps for two years with the intention to build a bottle cap table. I finally finished it this month after countless hours of labor building, sanding, finishing, arranging, cleaning, sealing, and tweaking. It was such a fun project. I can't cut the habit of collecting so I'm already thinking-up ideas for another one. This one is a beerpong table. The legs fold-up and it has removable shorter legs so it can drop-down to coffee table height when we're not playing.

bb bottlecap table

Brent Bulger
- Austin, Texas


May 3, 2010

Q. I already put a 3/16" coat of epoxy resin down and I wanted to pour a second coat along the front of my bar. I called the manufacture and they said to sand it with 220 grit and then use acetone to remove loose particles. I am a little stumped by this seems like to much grit. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do before I pour a second coat. Thank you very much.

Jason Anderegg
- Plano,Texas


May 17, 2010

! Hi, I just finished a bottle cap coffee table. I ended up painting the table black with a "fence" around the edge for the resin. I found a cheap way to seal up the bottoms of the bottle caps. I used black silicone at Home Depot and used a caulk gun to spread it generously over the surface and press the caps into it. The silicone sealed up the bottom of the caps and filled in the spaces between caps. This saved on me having to spend extra money on the resin. Unless you look really close, the silicone is barely visible against the rest of the black table. Thanks you to the rest of you who posted great hints and tips.

Chris Mias
- New York, New York


May 17, 2010

i. Hi all,

Finally finished our table.

We shipped the Kleer Kote all the way from the US.

Instead of a pic, check out this video. If you're only interested in the epoxy bits, you can skip to test pour at 2:37 , and final set-up/pouring starts at 2:54.

We did 3 layers of epoxy, seal coat is tough with the bottle caps packed in tight. Used a heat gun to pop bubbles, works much better than a hair dryer and worth the $15. Pouring the epoxy is a bit of a pain, most challenges have already been mentioned here. A few additions:

1) Don't do it at night. At least if you live somewhere that tiny bugs are attracted to bright lights. Yep, we were left with a few tiny fruit flies in the surface on the final pour.

2) Don't overdo it with the heat gun. I got a little overzealous in one area, and the air under the bottle caps expanded and escaped en masse. I had also set the surface layer by overheating it, so the bubbles couldn't get out. Its not too noticeable, but it bugs me.

3) Using the removable barrier method was interesting. Make sure you pull that plastic sheeting really tight. Any bubbles or creases you leave there will result in weird patterns in the side of epoxy layer, making attaching the final sides more difficult.

4) Even after sealing the base of the table and all the gaps with copious amounts of silicon, we still had about 6 leaks. Wasn't a major problem, just make sure you lay something down underneath where you pour.

Feel free to throw questions at me now, feel I've a bit of experience with this stuff.

Cheers,
Joe

Joseph Clarey
- Townsville, QLD, Australia


June 9, 2010

! Awesome forum, this really helps people a lot, I was wondering if anyone has tried placing epoxy resin over vinyl, or in my case a vinyl banner. I designed an 8 ft x 3 ft vinyl banner that I want on my table with some sort of epoxy resin placed on top for display/protection. Any ideas?

Ray Calitri
- Upstate New York USA


June 16, 2010

i. Here it is. Took a lot of work. I would really appreciate you publishing this photo.

em bottlecap table

Thanks,

Eric Miller
- Allentown, Pennsylvania

----
Ed. note: Nice "nittany lion", Eric!


June 25, 2010

A. Hi Eric, just wanted to say that table looks great. Is that with the acrylic sheet on top? Gives a nice result if so.

Ray - Have no experience with using vinyl, but I don't see it being a problem. The epoxy doesn't seem to react with any materials, though water based paints and dyes may run a little? It also warms up a little in the curing process, but probably not enough to damage the vinyl. I'd still suggest doing a test pour to sort out any problems. The epoxy works well, but I guess you could also look into glass or acrylic options to protect the banner. Hope it all works out, post some pics when you're done!

Joseph Clarey
- Townsville, Australia


July 28, 2010

A. I spent two years collecting bottle caps. Ended up collecting far more than needed, so I have a lot extra. I decided on a Texas themed table with red v. blue. I decided on a 2X8 table that would be stationary and not portable. I built the table itself with a 1X2 edge around the top that is about 1/4" high off the table top. The height is the same as a ping pong table. It took a total of about 1900 caps to complete the table. I ordered my epoxy from US Composites. The only problems I really encountered was a fly landing in the epoxy causing me to have to repair the spot which in turn left a higher area on the epoxy because I didn't put a full new layer down. But it doesn't look bad because the rest of the table came out flawless. The costs of the table including lumber, paint, and epoxy came out to about $220. I plan to eventually add red and blue lights under the table too.

tp bottlecap table

Travis Peterson
- San Marcos, Texas


August 4, 2010

! Thanks to everyone for all the tips and advice. My roommates and I finished our bar a while back and I'm just now getting around to submitting a picture.

dw bottlecap table

Let me know if you have any questions!

Danny Warner
- Pensacola, Florida


September 25, 2010

Q. I'm about to start laying my caps down for an 8' by 3' table, I was wondering how strong the epoxy is, and how well it will resist cracking and splitting like a windshield when the table is moved around. Should I divide my cap basin into 2 or 3 areas? or Go with glass top? Thanks!

Donnie R
military - Pensacola, Florida

October 31, 2010

Q. Hello,

I constructed an 8' by 4' bottle cap table but have not laid down any type of resin yet. After we constructed it, we realized that we made the border height too tall because right now, if we were to fill in the area with resin to the brim of the border (which is how we want it), it would take around 10 gallons of resin, and we do not want t, or need to, spend that much money. The caps and the border are glued down really well, so we thought of a scenario that we could try to fix it, but I wanted to run it by this forum first. Here it is...we pour 6 gallons of resin down (a little bit at a time, going through the process) right now and then, once the resin dries and hardens, we would trim down the border to the point of the border and resin being at the same level with a hand planar or something similar. Any problems that you foresee? Would the resin crack? We originally wanted to pry up the border pieces but with it being glued down by wood glue, we figure it would simply rip the weaker wood, being the plywood.

John Shoar
- Dayton, Ohio

November 2, 2010

Q. Hey everyone,

What is the best way to glue down the bottle caps onto your table? Would using hot glue around the perimeter of the caps work, or should I fill the insides of the cap? Or can I put down a thin layer of epoxy and while its still sticky lay my caps?

Nick Keller
- Columbus, Ohio, United States

December 12, 2010

Q. I am about to build my table and have a question about gluing down the caps. There has been a lot of talk about this and I was wondering if anyone has used rubber cement for this since it can be applied easily and is cheap. Would anyone recommend using clear elmer's glue instead? Thanks in advance for any answers! On Wisconsin!

Kody Habeck
- Madison, Wisconsin

December 13, 2010

A. Kody: I didn't glue my caps down at all. I slowly pored the first layer of epoxy over the caps and kept an eye of them for 30 minutes, then periodically checked them for the next few hours. If I caught any caps floating up, I'd push them down slowly, and blow the bubbles out. I had maybe 20-30 that tried to float up, which is relatively low, considering.

Travis Peterson
- San Marcos, Texas, united states

January 10, 2011

Q. I spread out a thin layer of Elmers glue using a sponge brush and set the caps on top. The caps do not move or raise.

I have a question about the Kleer Kote. My bar is going to be in an unheated area off of my detached garage. It is enclosed but it gets below 0 around here in the winter. The bar will not be used in the winter but I was wondering if the Kleer Kote will crack? Anyone have a bar in an area like this?

Jack Bonnett
- N Ridgeville, Ohio USA

January 11, 2011

Q. I am working on a project as a gift for my boyfriend. I want to adhere bottle caps to a piece of wood to make a plaque like display of bottle caps in the shape of a 4 leaf clover. I want to layer the bottle caps to make the clover 3D. I am stumped at how to attach the bottle caps to the wood and to the other bottle caps. Does anyone have any ideas? I would like to seal the entire completed piece as well, and I have no idea how to go about sealing it without a frame around it.

Crystal Graham
- Raleigh, North Carolina, USA

April 8, 2011

Q. Going to be doing a Kleer Kote epoxy top to my bar about 3-6 weeks from now, sealing bottle caps in the process. All the advice here has been very helpful, but has anyone tried to drill through it? I need a spot for the beer line to come up into the draft tower and would prefer to drill after finishing the epoxy, if possible. I don't want it to crack, though.

Rick Mahone
- Buffalo, New York, United States

July 29, 2011

Q. Wondering if Rick Mahone drilled for his beer tap? Please post the procedure you followed for this. I'm in my biggest cap table to date that will eventually include a beer tap from a keg underneath. Need to know how wide the diameter of the hole - I'm planning on drilling prior to pouring...

Dan Gasteazoro
- Apple Valley, Minnesota USA

June 20, 2011

Q. Hey, I was was going to spray paint the wood underneath the bottle caps, but I was wondering if the Kleer Koat would do anything to the paint? anybody know/ would it even look good/ do I need to treat the plywood first?

Thanks guys!

Jack Knobloch
- Greenwich, Connecticut, USA

July 17, 2011

! Planning on doing some similar projects using the Kleer Kote Resin, my first will be encasing and enshrining seashells my 6 year old daughter collected from our vacation onto a board and making sort of a plaque that can be hung or stand like a picture. I will of course thoroughly clean (bleach) and rinse and dry them first. For the seal coat I planned to coat the board that will be used for the base and dip the shells prior to lying them onto the board in the desired arrangement. I am hoping this will reduce the issue of bubbles with subsequent flood coats. Thanks to all for the great info. and pics. After this I am beginning to get inspired to do a poker table.

Bill Wilson
- Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

July 22, 2011

! Just wrapping up my first project. My dam around the circular table produced some issues that I'm reasonably confident I didn't come across a solution for in this awesome thread...so here goes - I intended to pull the dam off from the outer circular edge (and inner for for a beer bucket) and found that the tyvek flexible "wood" piece I used for the dam left a white coating on the epoxy (used US Composites Kleer Koat, awesome btw). What is best to use to remove this film? Second question...my dam left sharp edges. I am brainstorming the best way to "grind" these down. A sharp blade, sandpaper? I want to be able to see within epoxy finish without clouding the clarity.

Thanks for the info from years past and (hopefully) for answer to come!

Dan Gasteazoro
- Apple Valley, Minnesota, USA

July 25, 2011

i. First try at beer cap table, I'm gonna do it again

pz1 bottlecap table pz2 bottlecap table

Peter Zuzelski
Hobbyist - Walden, Colorado

August 9, 2011

i. Here is a photo of my bar which I created based on the posts in this forum. Thanks to everyone for your help and go Phillies!

jm bottlecap table

FYI, I used hot glue to secure the caps and U.S. Composites Kleer Kote Table Top Epoxy as the pourable surface. It turned out great!

Here is a little website I created with step by step instructions and pictures of how I created my bar: mirasphillybottlecapbar.webs.com/

Jim Mira
- Pennsylvania

August 15, 2011

Q. Hi all, I am a crafter making tables out of beer caps and other things. My problem is when I use the Kleer Kote on a black table I often get a dusty look in the epoxy. Any idea what I am doing wrong. Looks like tons of microscopic bubbles. Does it make a difference what type of container you mix the Kleer Kote in? Very frustrating when sometimes they look great and the next they don't. Can't seem to figure out what is different on the pours.

Linda Oertwich
crafter - Pilger, Nebraska, USA

August 18, 2011

A. I had the same problem in some parts and I think it's a result of stirring too fast. It causes tiny air bubbles that you can't really pop with a torch. On my next project I'm going to stir really slowly and hang a bed sheet or something over it to prevent any dust.

Jim Mira
- Scranton, Pennsylvania

August 28, 2011

! I found this site while me and my buddy were deciding to make a bottle cap table. All the posts have helped us a great deal. We just finished it. I will try to get photos of it soon.

Zach Alix
- New London, Connecticut

September 16, 2011

i. Thanks everyone for their suggestions on this site. I used it as my guide in creating this amazing coffee table. I am currently undergoing my undergraduate degree at The University of Cincinnati and have loved Bearcat football, so I made a tribute table. The final design used 544 plastic coke bottle caps. The table measures approx. 22.5" x 40.5"

jf bottlecap table

Thanks again to all for the great suggestions/advice!!

Josh Fuerst
- Cincinnati, Ohio, United States

November 14, 2011

Q. My friend and I have started a bar but it is on a hollow door. This was a couple years ago but we used vinyl tile glue to put the bottle caps on but we didn't seal the wood in any way. Do you see there being a problem with this in any way? And should I put a seal-coat over the caps before I do my flood coat?

Andrew DeVries
- Kalamazoo, Michigan, USA

February 5, 2012

! This website is exactly what I need to get my project started. I am starting out with a tile top coffee table. I am going to leave the tile on one side of the table top and put bottle caps on the opposite side so depending on the event we can flip the top of the table. I have already started the project and will be posting photos soon.

Thanks for the help on this forum.

Martin McCloud
- North Carolina


April 24, 2012

This is the table I made, just need to add epoxy, going with the Kleer Kote. I was originally going to do a beer pong table or bar top but I found this table outside my our apartments dumpster and just went with it (on of the legs was "broken" just needed a 4 inch piece of 1x4 to fix it, their loss) The caps that are turned upside down between the designs are from rainier and actually contain rebus puzzles on them. I remember growing up with them and helping my dad solve them.

dm bottlecap table

Anyway, I'm going to build a barrier around it somehow so it will be flat out to the lowest edge. Might fill in more caps on the edges when I do that.

Drew McCarson
- Winlock, Washington, USA


April 29, 2012

Q. Has anyone ever used kleer koat on cardboard boxes?
How did it turn out?

I've had the idea of using beer and pizza boxes to make a coffee table and book shelf for a while but never used it before not sure how it would work out.

Thanks

eric green
- colorado springs colorado usa


May 3, 2012

Q. I have an outdoor "tiki" type bar with a mahogany bar top. I would like to embed sea glass and sea shells in an epoxy finish on top. Can I stain and urethane the top before applying the epoxy?

Frank Silva
- Truro, Massachusetts, USA

June 4, 2012

Q. Very informative thread everyone. I don't believe I have really seen an answer for this question yet. I am wondering if it would be beneficial to fill the bottle caps with something like hot glue or plaster, before applying the epoxy, to help keep any bubbles from leaking out. Would this work and/or even be worth the time to do it?

Josh Barta
- Lincoln, Nebraska, USA


August 7, 2012

Just wanted to send a big thank you to this thread, as it helped me plan a bottlecap bartop project that turned out really great. All the tips were fabulous.

One huge tip that I'd like to offer: Do not take too much time pouring out your mix, because it will start to smoke, harden up quickly, and you'll end up pouring a big blob into the middle of your project. This happened to me. Luckily I was able to get most of it off, and cut a line with a utility knife before it really screwed things up too bad.

For my edge, I decided to cut wine corks in half long ways, and hot glue them end to end around the edge - this was really nice since I had a rounded part to my top. I then used about 5 coats of polyurethane on the corks and especially inside the area where the caps would be so that it was completely water tight. I know the epoxy instructions say to do a thin coat like this, but I recommend just doing it with polyurethane which is a lot cheaper and also not as messy.

ts1 bottlecap table ts2  bottlecap table

To do the mixing, I used simple red solo cups - filled a cup up twice with hardener and dumped into a trick-or-treat style halloween bucket, then used a separate solo cup and filled with resin (thick!) twice and dumped in. Stirred slowly per the instructions. Made sure it was 75-80° where I was doing it - needed a space heater and had to shut the AC off in my house for a day (boo). Left the epoxy warming in my garage in the days before the pour.

I'm really glad we didn't waste our time trying to glue down the bottle caps before the flood coat - we had like 900 caps, so that would've taken forever. Once we had our patterns all laid out, basically just slowly pour your mix over the caps and have somebody else there helping you if possible. We found that using the end of a clean paint stirrer was very helpful with the "floaters". You'll see when you do yours, about 5-10 seconds after a cap is covered it will begin to float. Just push each one down over & over with the paint stirrer until every one has "sank" - and your rubber gloves stay clean. I was also using a paint stirrer to "drip-fill" the harder to reach areas on my top - but don't take too much time because your bucket will get HOT and you'll end up with a mess - seriously - have it poured within like 10 minutes after stirring's complete or you'll regret it. We didn't need to use any heat gun or anything - the bubbles just rose to the top and we popped them with the end of the paint stirrer.

My bartop is 24" wide by 80" long (with a curve in it) and 2 gallons was the perfect amount of resin. Cost me about $100-110 delivered off Ebay.

Already thinking about what we can do next!

Tom Staszak
- Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA

----
Ed. note: The cork edge was a nice looking and practical idea!



August 22, 2012

Q. Can I use a marine grade epoxy resin kit, or will that yield a completely different result?

Jesse Frederickson
- Port Townsend, Washington, USA


August , 2012

Hi Jesse. If you have spare marine epoxy and a small unimportant project to try it on, please do and then tell us what happened.

But if we need to guess, my guess is that it will be quite unsatisfactory because coating materials are optimized for their purpose and marine epoxy might overheat if that thick, or it might acquire unremovable bubbles, or it might not level without brushing, or it might harden before you can get it all smoothly poured, etc.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey


50 Bottle Caps in one color

August 24, 2012

Q. I really am lost. I'm trying to make a beer pong table for my husband's man cave. He's deployed and I wanted to surprise him. I don't know where to find the caps at. Also, how do you attach them to the table after its made? Thanks.

Jordyn Delossantos
- Tacoma, Washington, USA


August 25, 2012

Hi Jordyn.

I think the main source of caps is beer bottles that you have opened. If that is not applicable, it's possible to buy plain bottle caps in a wide variety of colors from Amazon =>

3 postings above yours, Tom S. tells you how to do the project without attaching the caps, just pushing them down when they float. So you can either glue them or not. I'm not suggesting that the project is easy, because I haven't done it, but I think there is enough info on this page if you read slowly and carefully. Good luck.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey


October 2, 2012

Q. Hi all,
I've been looking at various sites and this appears to be the most informative. I have a painted plywood hexagon shape with a wood trim border. The table is just going to be inside a garage/basement.

I plan to glue my caps down with a clear acrylic latex caulk, is that a bit overkill?

I saw a lot of resin products to seal it, is one of the products better to use than others? (My dad suggested an FRP fiberglass resin) Has that been used before?

Any other suggestions would be appreciated, and I'll be sure to post a picture after I'm done!

Jackie Schmit
- Chicago, Illinois


December 12, 2012

Q. For those of you who have done folding beer pong tables... Did you just use 2 fences in the middle to create the barrier? If not how did you separate the 2 sides so the table was still able to fold without having a lip/bump in the center of the table? What material would you suggest to use for a removable fence? And in general about how much does the finished beer pong table weigh? Lastly how did everyone keep dust and bugs and anything else unwanted from sealing into the final surfaces? Thank you everyone for all your shares! This will be my first project and it's a pretty big one but I think my son will appreciate his birthday gift. Thank you all again!

Crystal Garcia
- APO, AE (US Army, stationed in Europe)


May 12, 2013

Q. Hey Everyone,
I see this forum is a little old but hopefully someone can help me. I am building a mini bar, and I put my first coat down of resin tonight. After reading the instructions more thoroughly I see that we made our coat about three times as thick as recommended. Does anyone know what I should expect? Will it even set? Help!

Sara Roloff
- Fond du Lac, Wisconsin, US


May , 2013

A. Hi Sara. The forum is well established, durable, and enduring -- not old :-)

If you added the right amount of curing agent (hardener), it will harden. These chemical hardening reactions generate a lot of heat and I think that one concern with a coating that is too thick is it may gas or bubble from overheating. But if it worked it should be fine.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey


June 15

A. Hey - Tom S here again - same guy that did the bar [a few postings above]. I'm back to report we've done 3 more epoxy projects since the bar.

First is a desk I made for my wife (from scratch) who works in the music business - we covered the top in concert ticket stubs. Second is a table I made for my 70's custom van with 1975 Donruss "Truckin" trading cards & vintage van magazine cutouts. Third is a wall-hanging barcap sign with cork edge & lettering for a game room that we made as a gift for friends for their wedding.

ticket stub table  truck theme table  ohasak

Advice in addition to what I said back when I submitted my bar pics: If using paper/cardboard like two of these projects: FIRST - use clear spray paint on the front & backs of each piece of paper. This is tedious - however it'll prevent wicking during your pour. I found that spray painting thin layers were best so that the actual spray paint didn't wick the paper as well. SECOND: Glue down every nook & cranny of paper including corners - they will float and annoy the heck out of you. THIRD: If you use wooden letters like in the sign we made, cover the letters (or anything wooden) with polyurethane first - otherwise you'll get air bubbles.

We poured all 3 of these at room temperatures around 70-72 degrees and they all turned out pretty good. Keep some shims on hand wherever you're doing your pour so that you can adjust the levelness on the fly. I used Elmer's glue as "caulking" around all the edges & nooks & crannies - it's key to make sure there's nowhere for the epoxy to escape. It's best to have at least 2 people on hand during the pour -- we used clean paint stirrers to push our bottlecaps back down (over & over & over) as well as a hair dryer. Once you feel it starting to firm up, stop trying to pop every last bubble because you're likely to screw it up more than you're helping it.

As you can see -- I have cup holders inside the van table. The way i did this was I shoved solo cups in the holes extremely tight and glued them in with Elmer's -- they held tight for the pour. Then after the epoxy hardens, you can pull them out and hit the sharp edges with some sandpaper.

Everybody has loved all of our projects, and I'm sure there will be more! Good luck if you're reading this and trying this for your first time.

Tom S
- Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA

----
Ed. note: Incredible work, Tom. Thanks for sharing it with us!



November 5, 2013

A. I have been lurking at the great site for a couple of years now as my OCD meets Martha tendencies worked out what I really wanted to do with the caps I was saving.

The first project was a cabinet cover to be used outdoors. Having read the posts about using poly resin for outdoor applications, I went with the "tile method" for my beer bottle and mug combo. The finished product looked pretty good but has faded and started to rust in spots. This one is on the re-do list.

bottle and mug design table-23

My second project was to re-cover two round expanded metal tables that had started to rust.

game board design table-24 game board deisgn table-25

After bolting squares of plywood to the existing table tops, I cut some inexpensive moulding for the frame that covers the exposed edges of the wood and was tall enough to allow for a 1/8" sheet of plexi on top. I left all the wood natural and just gave it a couple of coats of clear poly spray.

Laying out the game board designs took the longest since some of the caps had to be crimped to keep in line with others (difference between twist-off and non). The caps are free-floating and held in place by the plexi, which is sealed with a bead of 100% silicone to keep moisture out from inside the tables. This also allows fairly easy access to the top if I need to replace faded caps or want to change the designs. Playing pieces are also made from caps, felt and silicone.

Laura Lange
- Lebanon, Oregon, USA


September 4, 2014

Q. I am building an epoxy bottle cap table top. I need to add more epoxy to the first coat, however, I would like to change epoxy brands to something cheaper. My question is: if I change to a different brand of epoxy, will it bond well and work well with the original coats? The first coats are done with Parks Super Glaze. Are these epoxies pretty much made out of the same chemicals? Or are there difference that would cause problems if I changed in the middle of the project?

Tom Gutowski
- Milwaukee, Wisconsin


January 12, 2015

A. I've been away from this thread for a while, but just wanted to post a few things as I start planning another table...

17560-26

1. To answer an earlier question, I did drill for my draft beer tower. The epoxy is easily drilled through and I used a standard wooden hole saw. It was very easy. I highly recommend drilling AFTER the epoxy hardens, not before. It will be much easier. Your draft tower instructions should tell you what size hole you need (basically you need the inner diameter of the tower, NOT the diameter of the outside/base).

2. A hair dryer (as advertised in the instructions) does NOT work well at popping bubbles. A propane handheld torch worked well. I would assume a heat gun would work, but I did not try that.

3. I brushed on a layer of the epoxy first as per the instructions and stuck the bottle caps to that. None of them floated.

4. I have an open back to my bar (meaning there is no bordering piece of wood separating the bar service rail and the bar top). I built a temporary wall made out of clamps, 2x4s, and plastic sheeting which held the epoxy back at first. Then, as many people said, I let the epoxy drip over the side and smoothed out with a foam brush, but this was VERY difficult, stressful, and annoying. I would never build another table top like this again without having 4 solid walls to the table top (probably silicone sealed as well).

Rick Mahone
- Buffalo, New York


January 2015

thumbs up signThanks for the voice of experience, Rick!

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey


April 4, 2015

thumbs up signThanks so much for this site. I completed my table last year and am about to start another one. I am posting pics of my completed project.

17560-27a 17560-27b

My first table was a beer pong table that folds in half for easy transport.
My second project is going to be a cornhole game.
Thanks again for all of the wonderful posts and help.

Doug Southern
- Tuscaloosa, Alabama


April 11, 2015

Q. I have been looking through these posts and am virtually crying! I live in the UK. I am a housewife. I painted one drawer and poured self leveling epoxy resin from a small 4-oz. kit for jewellery onto it and then flicked very fine glitter over the top. When the bubbles came I used my embossers heat gun from my craft kit to disperse them.

What was the end result? Well, me jumping up and down and squealing because I could see a future kitchen!

EXCEPT - I'm a housewife who does little craft projects. I'm not going to buy silly little pots of self leveling resin stuff at an over blown price from a craft shop!

So, searching led me to your lovely pages. But you guys are mainly all in the US! How, what, where do I begin?

I just want a UK outlet or some advice on UK manufacturers names and what I'm supposed to buy! Something where I'm not redirected to a site selling boat varnish!

I wish I knew how to upload my 12 second video of my glitter draw and a pic of my first attempt! Then hopefully you would see what I meant and could advise!

Please help me get my pink glitter kitchen.

NannyPink, with hope, and pink glitter running thru me! Lol!

Lynn Pinky Parker
- Baldock, hertfordshire, England

----
Ed. note: Hi Lynn. Just e-mail the video to or put it on youtube and tell us the address. Clear pourable epoxy is not cheap no matter where you buy it, but try amazon.co.uk



April 30, 2015

Q. I have a question that perhaps some of you could help me with. I have noticed many of you have done bottle tops, etc. However, my situation is unique. We are actually inserting guns into the thick bar top. The issue is that the depth is almost 3 inches. Does anyone know of a product that won't require 48 pours at that depth? I would like to do it in several pours but most require 1/16th of an inch or 1/8th of an inch layers. That would take forever!! Need help and any response or input is appreciated.

John Runkle
Dirty Shame Saloon - Troy, Montana USA


May 8, 2015

Q. Hello Everyone,
Thanks for all the useful advice on this site. I am about to do my bar in bottle caps and have a few questions being nervous that this is my first time doing this and I don't want to screw it up .
Would spreading a decent layer of Elmers glue and pushing the caps into it help with the bubbles from under the Caps issue? Would this affect the resin in any way?
I have seen mentions of different brands of resin to use and I'm wondering if either Parks super glaze from Home Depot or Famowood glaze coat from Lowes would work as well.
How many coats of resin are people putting down to achieve the results that are shown here? Is there a reduction in clarity the more coats that are put down?
Thanks again!

Thomas Dettloff
- Canton, Michigan, USA


May 2015

Hi Thomas. I haven't done a table, but I don't think that Elmer's water-soluble glue would be a good as an epoxy glue. You might try a sample with 8 or 10 bottlecaps to get a feel for what works before you commit your hard work to the vagaries of a routine you're not familiar with, and which is so time limited as a rapidly-hardening epoxy.

Look for "thick pourable epoxy", and see whether the instructions indicate that it's for this purpose; if not, it probably won't work nearly as well. Sorry, we don't recommend specific brands or stores as it has led so many times to phony "testimonials" from salespeople posing as satisfied customers. If you give people both anonymity plus an opportunity for commercial profit from a posting, faking it can be irresistible :-)

Regards,

pic of Ted Mooney
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey
Striving to live "Aloha"


May 8, 2015

Q. Thanks Ted. How many coats are usually used? Is it based on height wanted?

Thomas Dettloff [returning]
- Canton, Michigan


May 2015

A. Hi Thomas. I'm only the operator of this website, and this is just one of 50,000 threads on the site: I've never worked with that pourable epoxy stuff, so I can't answer -- but I think it implies on this page and perhaps in the directions on the bottle that there is a limit to the thickness of a pour. Maybe about 1/4" probably because epoxy get so hot as it cures that it needs to get some cooling from the air. Good luck, and hopefully people who have done it will ring in. Good luck.

Regards,

pic of Ted Mooney
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey
Striving to live "Aloha"


June 14, 2015

Q. This tread is awesome and exactly what I was looking for! I've been saving bottle caps for a while now and finally have enough for my bottle cap beer pong table. I've read this entire tread and was hoping you fine people would comment/give suggestions to my plan.

I'm planning on buying plywood, fairly thick, and wood gluing a "fence" around the perimeter of the table using clamps. I will mostly buy and install legs onto my table once completed just to save time. I was planning on either painting or staining the table. Then place the bottle caps in my desired design (spelling my particular college). It will be a rectangle table (probably 8' by 3' or something like that) and I will stagger the bottle caps to make a snug fit. I do not think I am going to glue each bottle cap down in order to save time and money. I am worried about bottle caps 'floating' but I have lots of roommates that will be able to help keep them down as I pour the first coat. This part worries my most. After this however I just need about two or three more thin coats of epoxy. Oh, and am I am definitely planning on using the Kleer Kote as nearly everyone recommended it even though it is expensive. I also have a torch and plan on using it too heat up the epoxy to remove bubbles.

So what do you think? I am worried about not gluing down the caps but I think it will work. What about putting books or weights on the bottle caps to keep them down while I pour the first coat? And when I pour the first layer should I worry about getting epoxy on the top? Eventually they will all be completely covered so can I just pour wherever and it will drip itself down and harden the caps in place? Thanks for everyone's contributions and help, this has been such a great help in planning my bottle cap beer pong table!!

Derek Taranto
- Springfield, Massachusetts USA


September 10, 2015

A. Thomas...& Derek...
Glue will definitely help with the bubbles and will have no effect on the finish. I used Elmers washable school glue and I used the clear glue instead of the white glue.

I used two coats to get the desired thickness over my tops.

GLUE THEM DOWN.... THEY WILL FLOAT.
Books or people or anything else is just going to be a disaster waiting to happen. Time and a few more bucks is nothing for such an awesome table.

After I had my design laid out I removed the tops about 10-15 rows at a time. I then spread the glue pretty thick and used an old credit card to spread the glue out evenly and then placed the caps back down. About an hour is all it takes to do it this way and to avoid many problems.

Good Luck

Doug Southern
- Tuscaloosa Alabama USA



September 21, 2015

Q. Hello!

Great thread.

A quick question for those who have made a beer pong table. I just completed making a beer pong table and covered it with the Famowood brand of epoxy resin. I did one layer, as it was a hand painted table instead of a beer cap table. It came out perfect! However, I am wondering if the table will have adequate bounce? Does anyone have experience with how a pong ball bounces off epoxy as compared to wood?
I do realize that most people play the game by tossing the ball into the cup and not bouncing...but just in case :-) thanks!

Cassandra Vallery
- Fayetteville, North Carolina USA



May 8, 2016

Q. Hi. I have learned a ton from all the posts and am ready to start except for 1 thing. I have a table that does not have a lip (fence?). If I build a frame with caulk to hold the epoxy in, can I remove the frame/lip/fence afterwards? So there are no splinters should I wrap the wood in Saran type wrap? I am sending pictures and appreciate your help!

17560-28
(I can remove the legs so all sides are exposed)

Peter Seemann
- Dallas, Texas


June 21, 2016

Q. What is everyone using for the "fence" ? My table, an old electrical spool, does not have an edge and I'd prefer it not to have a permanent one. Thanks for any suggestions!

Tina LeNormand
- Gulfport, Mississippi United States


June 2016

A. Hi Peter; hi Tina. I haven't done this so I don't know, and the question has been asked at least a half-dozen times on this thread. So what I'm going to say is try covering your wood fence with wax paper. It seems to be used to keep 101 things from sticking. I doubt that Saran wrap would work as well.

But even Renoir and Michaelangelo did charcoal sketches before committing a scene to oils. Don't be expecting detailed instruction on how you can build a masterpiece the first time you touch pourable epoxy :-)
Play with the wax paper and some pourable epoxy on small scrap pieces first :-)

Regards,

pic of Ted Mooney
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey
Striving to live "Aloha"



Bar Top Refinishing Help

December 5, 2016 -- this entry appended to this thread by editor in lieu of spawning a duplicative thread

Q. I am a college student. To pay for school I have been doing higher end home renovations and custom furniture pieces.

I have done multiple finished surfaces with Varnish and two part Epoxies. Recently a customer asked me to resurface a custom bar top he had built for him. It has minor scratches and engraving in the middle of it.

I am trying to figure out the best possible finish to use for this surface, It has only had a oil rub finish on it which has allowed it to be scuffed and scratched from use over the years. The surface is a white Oak with a Walnut stain. The bar surface has been engraved with their family name as well so I want to be sure to not tarnish this area.

My plan is to start rough and work my way up in Grit till I have the surface blemish free. My concern with over sanding is having to find and rematch the stain. Epoxy resin would be an easy work around but would require a larger time frame (customer is asking 4 days) as well as a concern for contaminants since the bar top is not removable.

This has caused me to want to revert to a regular Varnish with multiple coats that is fast drying. This would let me do a light sanding and then immediately begin work on the surface. The varnish will not hold up as well as the Epoxy, but would be a fast solution.

My final questions is with epoxy bubbling, I have never been able to get my surface bubble free which really bothers me. I have concealed and re-sanded to conceal bubbles to the point customers will not notice, but it still bothers me greatly. I use a torch and heat gun and watch like a mother goose, but still manage to have bubbles rise up. Does any one have tips for finishing these types of surfaces and suggestions for this type of work in general?

Drew Thomas
Student - Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania

December 2016

A. Hi Drew. There are many suggestions for dealing with bubbles on this page which we appended your inquiry to. I see that there is also a spray you can mist onto the surface for the purpose ... but how well it works is something I don't know :-(

Regards,

pic of Ted Mooney
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey
Striving to live "Aloha"



Embroidered military patches

October 21, 2017

Q. I want to make a bar top or table top putting military embroidered patches under the resin. I have observed other resin bar tops where the patches had nothing to protect the integrity of the colors of the threads and the patches became very dark and hard to see, possibly due to "absorbing" the liquid resin.
Does anyone have any suggestions what to possibly soak the embroidered patches with, which would allow them to become impervious to the resin/Kleer coat?

Jane Rutt
Hobbyist - Oro Valley, Arizona, USA


October 25, 2017

A. Hello, Jane!

What are the dimensions of the patches?

Apologies in advance BTW because my explanations tend to end up being more complex and involved than is doing the actual procedures...

Anyway - This *might* be applicable:
I've used very light multiple coats of Triple Thick Crystal Clear Glaze on *paper*, and very light multiple coats of Crystal Clear Enamel on tropical hardwoods which "bleed" color if any sort of solvent-based coating is brushed on.
Both are spray products; name brands deleted but the first one is common to Hobby shops and the latter is found in home'n'hardware stores/departments ;) The trick is finding a place with no ((or minimal)) air current, and using very light, brief "spritzes" so that just a few tiny droplets get misted onto the paper, and waiting for it to dry well between "spritzes".
- The idea is to minimize the amount of solvent that can get absorbed while leaving just enough for the acrylic to remain sticky.
- That might work for fabric but I've never done it myself, plus, fabrics and dyes are so different, and embroidery is different again, so it'd be best if you had a small sample you could test.

That being said, however, if I was doing your project, I'd personally do it as a glass-covered inlay, carving out a small compartment in the wood for each patch, with a lip for the glass to sit in ((the depth adjusted for the projected depth of your resin)), then sealing the wood with a few layers of super-blonde shellac ((because it's non-reactive and neutral when dry)), setting the patch on a bit of something non-reactive ((to keep it just a wee bit above any possible condensation)), apply some flexible adhesive, and set-in the glass.

What I'd also consider doing, FWIW, would be to make small openings in each compartment for tiny LED string lights, or optical fiber running from a light source ((depending upon the thickness of your wood and the distance between patches)) that could just barely peek through the wood, or maybe even some super-thin electroluminescent "EL" wire in each compartment, to subtly light each patch underneath the glass - I think that could be nifty ;)

- HOWEVER!, avoid window glass - it has a greenish tint, and it's not very strong at all, so not good for a table or bar. I'd go with something made specifically for use in stained-glass projects, or something very clear ((maybe optical glass)) designed for industrial applications.

I hope that Helps!

Kris Krieger
- Richmond, Texas USA


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