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Rustoleum Paint Not Sticking to Ospho

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Q. I built a piece of equipment using regular mild steel plate and standard structural angles and square tubing. I wire brushed all of the powder rust and spray applied a coat of Osphoamazoninfo. After 24 hours it was completely dry to the touch and I applied a coat of Rust-oleum #7435. 48 hours later the paint could be easily peeled off with the back of a fingernail!

Question one: What did I do wrong?

Question two: What do I do now?

Giles Van Duyne
- Groveland, Florida


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Q. Question:

1. How did you prepare the surface prior to the ospho?

2. Did you de-grease the surface?

3. What time of day did you paint ?

4. How was the paint applied ?

5. Did you notice anything unusual about the application ? (crawling paint, fisheyes, sheeting, etc..)

Steve Cook
- St.Petersburg, Florida


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A. The whole trick to painting on metal with a oil based paint is to be sure that the surface is clean with a capital C. This not only means grease and dirt but also water. or more correctly,water humidity which will get on metal in a damp and cool day.
Heat the metal up to about 85 degrees so that moisture does not want to collect on the surface.
That way the metal will be bone dry.

Marvin Alvarez
- Bridgeport, New Jersey


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A. DEPENDING ON THE APPLICATION. THE Osphoamazoninfo SHOULD GO ON A CREAMY WHITE. A CHEMICAL REACTION OCCURS TURNING THE OSPHO BLACK IN COLOR. THIS SHOULD TAKE BETWEEN 20-60 MINUTES. DEPENDING ON TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY. RINSE WITH FRESH WATER. REAPPLY AS NECESSARY WAIT FOR THE SURFACE TO DRY THEN APPLY PRIMER AND OR PAINT.

RICK PATEK
- OLYMPIA, Washington


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A. Although the Rust-o-leum product you applied may have been dried to the touch which most coatings are, it may have not been fully cured. Most paints, even epoxies have a 30 day full cure time. You can scratch off most coatings even after a 4-5 day time frame, after 30 days you should not be able too.

Dan Burnett
- Gainesville, Georgia


April 4, 2011

A. PLEASE STOP SPRAYING OSPHO! If you aerosol this stuff, use the proper protection. The MSDS requires a certain respirator if the stuff is airborne. You do not want to breathe phosphoric acid in an airborne state especially if you're in an enclosed area.

Ken Burge
- Houston Texas

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Q. Hi all.

I've just come across this site while researching rust converting products. I've recently purchased a '93 Explorer with quite a bit of rust. So far, I've bought an aerosol spray called "Rust Converteramazoninfo" and a bottle of Ospho. I originally thought the two accomplished the same end result. But reading several posts here leads me to believe this is not the case. Is one of these products superior to the other? Would I achieve better results if I were to use both (the Ospho and then the Rust Converter)? I had intended to spray the frame with the Rust Converter and then use an undercoating. As for the body rust, I planned to use the Rust converter, then prime and paint. Now that I've found the Ospho, I'm not sure how to proceed. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jennifer Bennett
Hobbyist - Bunnell, Florida


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Q. I bought the Ospho product. What is the best way to apply it? What type of prep do I need to do to the door beforehand (sanding...cleaning)? One of the responses to another question said clean it well. WITH WHAT?

It is a sectioned door with a white powder coating(?) paint and textured like orange peel. The surface has a light coating of rust all over. Door is structurally sound, but looks bad. After treating with Ospho, what type of paint can I use over it?

Debora Cross
hobbyist - Cape Canaveral, Florida


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-- appended to this thread by editor in lieu of spawning a duplicative thread

Q. I have an old radio flyer wagon from my husband's childhood that I would like to refinish. I'm not sure where to start? Could you please help me out with the best steps for this project? Thank you so much!

Jackie

Jackie Riesberg
- LaVista, Nebraska

Radio Flyer Flew


May 17, 2009

Q. I have used a combined rust converter and primer on tiny rust stone chips on a vehicle. Alas I didn't wipe away the excess and now have much larger brown stained patches where the product dried which seems very difficult to remove. Does anyone have any ideas apart from the obvious option of sanding the stained surface away please ?

Frances Grindlay
- Melbourne, Victoria, Australia


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Q. I'm restoring a 1923 Aermotor windmill. The rustoleum aluminum is too bright. I would like the dull galvanized aged look. Any way to tone down the aluminum? I've tried computer matching at Home Depot with an old blade. Auto paint can match close but is for spraying and I'm brushing/rolling. Thanks, Dick

Dick Strough
hobbyist - Fortville, Indiana


September 24, 2009

A. To the windmill restorer. You might try Cold Galv [linked by editor to product info] which is a spray on galvanizing paint. It does have a duller appearance. It can be purchased just about anywhere that cans of spray paint are available. Galvanized metal can be aged, or etched, by wiping with vinegar which is a mild acid. I would give the Cold Galv thirty days to cure first. I've not tried this on Cold Galv but have on galvanized metal many times.

Bob Johnson
- Ocala Florida


November 19, 2012

A. If you apply a thick coat of ospho on metal surfaces it creates a waxy film. The primer failed to adhere to the waxy film. In my experience, after applying ospho, we scrubbed the surface with mineral spirits to remove the excess ospho. This allowed the primer to bond. The primer has not failed after twenty years. These are civil war era cannons that are exposed to the elements year round.

Mike Hosti
Retired - Tybee Island, Georgia

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