Aloha, fun & authoritative answers -- no cost, no passwords, no popups
(as an eBay Partner & Amazon Affiliate we earn from qualifying purchases)

Home /
T.O.C.
Fun
FAQs
Good
Books
Ref.
Libr.
Adver-
tise
Help
Wanted
Current
Q&A's
Site 🔍
Search
pub
Metal finishing Q&As since 1989


-----

HELP WITH BLACK OXIDIZING




2000

But, I need to get a good finish (bright and smooth black or blue black). In order to get this good finish, I'm thinking of two possibilities:

1-The best alternative is that perhaps some additive can be added into the molten salt bath, in order to get the finish I am looking.

2-If it is not possible to get the adequate finish with this, I'm think in l add one more process, for black oxidising the nails. I know that this can be achieve with hot alkaline baths of NaOH, but I'm new in this, and don't know much about this. Somebody can help me with some information about this( explanation about the process, or a right formulation, like temp., time, composition of the bath)

Thanks a lot in advance.

VICTOR MENDOZA
- LIMA-PERU


Victor -

To achieve a smooth & shiny black finish, you must first start out with a smooth & shiny part. Black oxide is a conversion coating and WILL NOT cover up any cosmetic blemishes. By the same token, it will leave a part as shiny as it started without changing any dimensions. As far as any additives, that won't help and in fact may hurt the formation of the black oxide.

The general parameters are to run the bath at 285 degrees F, and to have the parts in the tank for 5-20 minutes. If you use a powdered product, you'll probably be adding 5.5 - 6 pounds of salt per gallon of water.

Dan Brewer
chemical process supplier - Gurnee, Illinois
2000


The blacking bath consists of mainly NaOH plus NaNO3 and NaNO2 boiling at 140 deg C. Occasional addition of extra nitrite gives better colour. If you use an alkaline deruster as the preclean stage (100 g/l NaOH + Sodium gluconate and/or triethanolamine) you will get greater tolerance to blacking bath changes.

Roger Bridger
- Croydon, UK
2000




(No "dead threads" here! If this page isn't currently on the Hotline your Q, A, or Comment will restore it)

Q, A, or Comment on THIS thread -or- Start a NEW Thread

Disclaimer: It's not possible to fully diagnose a finishing problem or the hazards of an operation via these pages. All information presented is for general reference and does not represent a professional opinion nor the policy of an author's employer. The internet is largely anonymous & unvetted; some names may be fictitious and some recommendations might be harmful.

If you are seeking a product or service related to metal finishing, please check these Directories:

Finishing
Jobshops
Capital
Equipment
Chemicals &
Consumables
Consult'g,
& Software


About/Contact  -  Privacy Policy  -  ©1995-2024 finishing.com, Pine Beach, New Jersey, USA  -  about "affil links"