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letter 50046
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AF Kenton |
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Steve, AF Kenton is right on with recomending a wheel machine. Some mills, have this capability to process structural shapes through a wheel machine to remove mill scale. You should check with the Mill you purchased from. You definetly would want the Mill to use a stainless media, say stainless cut wire shot, so iron is not imbedded into the stainless shapes. A conditioned cut wire shot would give a burnished "peened" appearence if this is acceptable. I believe there are some specialty Mills in Pa. with the capability to do this, it's worth a call. Good Luck.
Tim Deakin
- North Tonawanda, NY
Steve:
I understand your problem as we do the same thing and nearly all my
finished stainless is #4 brushed.
I agree with going to the mills for help if time is on your side. I
have tried that and usually they quote weeks to furnish special
finishes.
If your customer is amenable to the idea you may want to consider
fabricating the angles & channel from flat bar. Also time
consuming but if you have the problems I have it's the easier way to
go as most of my projects call for irregular legs such as 3.75" x
4.375". They don't make angle to those specs. We do the finish on
flat bar, inside only, then tig and go back to refinish the weld with
die grinders, hand finish or as you have found. Whatever works. No
fun any way you look at it.
CS Unitec makes a tool, It is a drum type hand held. If you have a
Metabo, Unitec makes the normal size drum that you can adapt to your
Metabo. We have 2 Metabos #SE-112 which is the kit. We made guides to
keep our brush stroke straight and uniform. We us 60 Grit flap discs
to get out the mill streaks but you should try to use Type 29 discs
which don't have the tapered disc surface. They are flat across.
Don't tip the grinder at an angle. keep it as flat as possible and
work so that the sand scratches follow the longtitudinal grain which
means you work the grinder across the part rather than working the
grinder lengthwise down the piece which makes the sand scratches
perpendicular and even harder to work out.
Wayne Petry
- Buffalo, Texas
Hey Steve,
You may need to look into a machine called a "Timesaver" while
Timesaver is a brand of its own these type of machines have adopted
this name. We built our own. Basically its kind of like a stationary
planer but instead of a rotating blade its a vertically positioned
sanding belt. They can be configured with 1,2,3... belts as to allow
a one pass system. Widths are only limited to the widths of sanding
belts available. The main points to consider if making your own
is:
1.) Controlled pressure of the drum on the part
2.) Controlled feet per minute of the part through the machine.
3.) Controlled belt centering (system to keep belt on drum)
4.) Controlled rpm of drum
Cliff Kusch
electropolishing shop - North Vancouver, BC, Canada
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