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Letter 37569
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Trevor Crichton |
I doubt if it will work. It will also depend on what the aluminum
alloy is.
Look at concentrated nitric acid. One notch below red fuming. Regular
nitric that most people would use commercially has too much water in
it. The part has to be absolutely dry when you put it into the acid.
Note that it will slowly absorb water from the air and you will at
some point have etched parts.
James Watts
- Navarre, Florida
Hi,
Pls do help me out with my experiment, as the dateline is next week.
I have no idea whether sulfuric acid can be use to etch ( remove )
the nickel plated aluminum disk. I only want to remove the nickel not
aluminum. Currently, I am using aluminum potassium sulphate to etch (
remove ) the nickel.
thank you.
Lee Chee Hun
- Malaysia
Thank you Trevor Crichton & James Watts.
Dear Trevor Crichton,
I will definitely acknowledge the ideas given by you in my project.
will sulfuric acid perform better that aluminium potassium sulphate
to etch the nickel plated aluminium disk?the area that I would like
to remove is about 1 cm x 1 cm only. i can use the Laybere solution
as a guideline?
Mr James Watts,
Based on your respond, do you mean that sulfuric acid will not be
able to etch (remove)the nickel plated aluminium disk? and nitric
acid will be a better solution?
'One notch below red fuming' I don't understand this statement. can
you explained further.
hope to hear from both of you soon.thanks,
Lee Chee Hun
- Malaysia
Laybere solution has been well known for many years, so there is no reason why it cant be used as a benchmark. I think you will find the sulphuric acid bath will react faster than aluminium potassium sulphate. Be careful of the sulphuric acid as it is very corrosive.
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Trevor Crichton |
My company regularly uses a 50% (vol) solution of Nitric acid, and DI water to remove nickel from aluminum. This solution will hardly attack the AL substrate, and works quite well.
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Marc Green |
OK, my head was somewhere other than firmly attached to the neck.
The procedure that I talked about was for removing EN from steel. My
bad.
In another letter, an author talked about using 12% sulfuric acid
with peroxide for removal of EN. Do not remember the substrate.
James Watts
- Navarre, Florida
Hi,
thanks so much for the positive responds.
As the dateline had been extended, I hope to try out the two
experiments using sulphuric acid and nitric acid.
I am trying to source for a ampere meter. ( Do I need it? )
this is how i plan to conduct the experiment:
1. i will conduct it in a fume cupboard.
2. pour 150 mL of H2SO4 to 100 mL of DI water in a bicker.
3. after mixing it,will place a dummy disk in the bicker.
4. the Al disk ( 95 mm diameter ) will be placed inside the
bicker.
5. the current is about 9 V. Anode will be clip to the Al disk, while
Cathode will be connected to the dummy disk.
6. etching time still unknown... ( can it be calculated/ measure ?
)
Pls do correct me if my procedure is wrong.
how will the ampere meter come to good use? how will it
function?
any other better suggestions?
thanking all of you in advance.
Lee Chee Hun
- Malaysia
Ed. note: Ampere-hour meters are available from all suppliers of rectifiers and power supplies. Several are listed in our equipment directory.
James, the sulphuric acid/peroxide mix is pretty potent and will take off most metals - I have used a similar formulation for dissolving both nickel and copper, but it will chew up any metal substrates of you're not careful!
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Trevor Crichton |
Hi,
Any suggestions / ideas regarding to the procedure that I am going to
use? is the method correct? as I hope it is safe to conduct it.
pls let me know, thanks again.
Lee Chee Hun
- Malaysia
You can use electrolytic etching-this process is much safer than H2SO4.Slightly acidified nickel sulphate solution can be used as electrolyte,object =anode,platinized titanium or stainless steel=cathode.
Good luck!
Goran Budija
- Zagreb, Croatia
You will need an ammeter to tell you the amount of current being passed. You will also need an accurate clock to tell you the time spent; I suggest a stopwatch. Your process looks basically sound, but I suggest you check with your supervisor before doing it - he knows your abilities and the abilities of your classmates and the equipment. Furthermore, he is responsible for you!
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Trevor Crichton |
Hi,
Thanks, I had tried out the experiment with sulphuric acid, its a bit
dangerous as sulphur gas was released during the etching process.
will nitric acid be the same as well?
additionally, I would like to add a system (timer) that can cut off
the current once the etching process is finished.
can it be done? with this, I will try out on different surface size
to etch, so i can set approximately the time needed to stop the
current once the process is finished.
but I am concern that the aluminum potassium sulphate which I am
currently still using will degrade after 2 rounds of etching. the
time set for the 1st round should be faster compared to the 2nd
round,right? will it be the same as well for sulphuric acid?
thanks again for replying.
Lee Chee Hun
- Malaysia
No, sulphuric acid is not the dangerous part! The dangerous part is conducting experiments other than under a lab hood, or other than while wearing the correct PPE experiment, or without proper training and/or supervision. Asking a stranger over the internet, who you don't know, and who doesn't know you or your facility or your training level, about the safety of a proposed experiment is dangerous. As Mr. Crichton noted, your supervisor is the one to ask.
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If you want to remove the nickel from hard drive disks you cut the disks up into 1/4 inch strips and soak it in hlc or muriatic acid this will dissolve all the aluminum base metal and all you are left with is the nickel platinum cobalt alloy thin film. I do this all the time and sell the foil on ebay as a platinum alloy. there is a fast reaction at first it takes about a week for me to dissolve 60 disks at once I hope this helps.
William Thompson
- Watson Sask, Canada
you cold use household bleach, it works on the disk
theodorus schuurbiers
- curacao iland in the caribean
Hello all,
I am a Belgian collector of antique guns and currently trying to
remove an old damaged nickel plating (could be nickel/chrome)from a
steel gun frame.
I tried electrolysis with a solution of about 30% Sulfuric acid (I
use battery acid)and distillated water. Temperature
about 20°Celsius, current is supplied by a car battery
charger.
Well, it doesn't work at all. The acid attacks the steel and
destructs my anode, but it has no effect at all on the nickel
plating.
The gun is a Colt 1849 Pocket made in the late 1850's but I doubt the
plating is original factory work.
I usually remove rust from steel parts using a solution of
abt 30% of Chlorhydric acid and water in the very same home-made
electrolysis installation. The solution removes all the rust and does
not affect the steel in any way.
Yet chlorhydric acid doesn't work on nickel plating either.
An US correspondent told me about a good and effective chemical
produced by
Brownells
, but it
seems like that company is not allowed to export the product.
So if anyone can provide a better solution, I'll be very pleased to
read about it.
Thanks in advance,
Marcel Cansse
- Knokke, Belgium

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