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How to make a paint stripper not harmful to plastic parts

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Q. Our paint remover ,with traditional formulation, utilizing MC/crecylic acid/HF is actually performed well, but when using to plastic parts, like ABS, that remover, had made the plastics surfaces not even, any friends can suggest, whether I have to change the formulation using alcohol or other ,that not harmful to most of plating plastics ,when we're going to peel off the coating.

Really appreciate your suggestion,or advice in this problem.

Thanks a lot

Daniel Herman S Suhendra
metal researcher/hobbyist - Jakarta, Dki, Indonesia


March 27, 2008

A. hiya modeling dudes.

dot 4 brake fluid works very well without any apparent damage to the plastic.
it is advisable to take a sample of same or similar plastic & throw into the fluid for a timed period to avoid possibility of damage to plastic parts of models in the event it proves damaging.
"always wear rubberprotective glovesamazoninfo & eye protection".
"always dispose of in a responsible manner".
"always read instructions on container".
I have personally tried it on plastics painted with acrylics & enamels & results are good after 2 hours, very good after 4 hours & excellent after 12 hours but, this will depend on the amount of layers, the paint used & the plastic that the paint is applied to.
This was achieved by "immersion" in a sealed glass container(coffee jar)& regular checks on progress. for larger items it is for yourself to find a container that meets your needs. paint will bubble after time. when satisfied it has had long enough, wash under cool/cold running water & gently rub with an old toothbrush. this will remove most of the paint(if not all). dry thoroughly with kitchen paper towels(or equivalent). if the plastic feels greasy or sticky, wash under "warm" (not hot) water with washing up liquid(dish soap) & dry completely before trying a thin layer of new paint. if spraying or dry brushing, it is advisable to wash under "warm water"(after the dish soap stage)to remove possible soap residue as soap or brake fluid will react with the new paint finish.
I have not tried this process on clear plastics(cockpit
canopies)yet & it is advisable to test a piece of "sprue/grid/frame"the parts come on first if possible.

brake fluid is cheap & easily available. does a very satisfactory job(see above for directions). if instructions are followed as above there should be very few problems.

is very volatile & safety should be paramount. disposal(safely)should be done with care.

all advice given should be "followed to the letter" & tests done first on equivalent materials to prevent possible damage to components.

all operations are therefore undertaken at your own risk.
good luck with your "experiments" & remember.......... safety first!

Clints Figs
- Leicester, Leicestershire, England, UK


May 23, 2008

A. Thank you so much for this advice about using a dot 4 brake fluid. guys, it really works!. if it was not you, I wouldn't know about it. what happened was I painted my taillight and it did not work-out. I used the dot 4 brake fluid and problem solved.

Marty M.
- West Palm Beach, Florida, USA


May 31, 2008

A. hiya.

really pleased to know that the brake fluid worked on the tail light.

great to hear that the information has been beneficial to someone.

I've done further immersion tests & plastics have been left to soak for a week or so without any damage to the plastics & the paint sloughs off much more easily.

great for stripping poor paint finishes on ebay scores.
my thing is the games workshop warhammer/40,000 battle game miniatures. brake fluid seems to really struggle on the games workshops clear gloss lacquer("ard coat") though.

good luck in all your projects.

Clints Figs
- Leicester, Leicestershire, United Kingdom


July 27, 2008

Q. I have purchased a Marine Paint stripper to do the job but I am not satisfied. Would the brake fluid be suitable for stripping the paint off aluminum? How do I clean the brake fluid residue off the aluminum properly for repainting?

Jacques Bernatchez
Maintenance Mechanic - Elliot Lake, Ontario, Canada


January 13, 2011

Q. I want to ask a question! What kind of homemade stripper can I make to dip cars in thats not gonna cost me a fortune to buy? Theses eco guys are wanting 2200 dollars a barrel for a chemical stripper thats safe on aluminum. They want 700 a barrel for a chemical that the car bodies go in that strips bondo, paint, grease and gum, It loosens it of coarse Then you have to hot steam it off. What can I use thats safe and does the same job? I am wanting a good aluminum stripper too? I've tried the lye and water mix which seems to do good on paint for metal. Is there any thing else? The thing is not safe for aluminum. I've spent close to 1000 dollars on chemicals that say they are incredible but just don't do a good job. I talked to a guy on the west cost that said he made his but couldn't get the mixture out of him. I wanna start up a dip service for my area thats fairly green to save on blasting costs,can you help me? Thanks Dave

David Marshall
sandblasting - Willis Virginia USA

May 20, 2012

Q. I have a 1976 Monte Carlo that has I believe ABS plastic panels that are fill-ins between the left and right rear quarter panels and the rear bumper -- mine deteriorated and I found replacements from a parts car. I would like to know what the best way to remove the cracked and peeling paint without damaging the plastic. As you can see, I don't want to ruin the parts because they don't manufacture after- market replacements

Richard Hesse
- Council Bluffs, Iowa, USA

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