letter 27151

CPVC vs. copper to plumb a house

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I am an artist and my husband is a residential designer. We have galvanized pipes now and are going to replace them, due to little water pressure.What is safest, copper or cpvc for plumbing a house? I read that PVC will leach toxins. How is PVC different from CPVC and what might be the advantages over copper. How do they differ in price?

Thanks,

Bellskye Thomas
artist - College Park, Georgia


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I am interested in why you want to change from galvanised pipes to copper or CPVC "due to little water pressure". I cannot see how changing the pipes will alter the water pressure, unless the pipes are blocked with chalk or something.

Anyhow, firstly, CPVC is "chlorinated polyvinyl chloride" - it is a "polymer" or plastic and has greater heat resistance and better impact strength than conventional PVC. The manufacture of PVC entails using vinyl chloride monomer and this is highly toxic, but if the correct grade is bought, this will not be a problem. The best way to get the correct grade is to go to a reputable plumbers outlet and get it there. You will also be able to compare its price with copper pipe. Being in the UK, any comparison I can make will not be applicable in Georgia!

The advantages of CPVC over copper are varied, but unfortunately not precise. Firstly, CPVC will not corrode, as copper can do, secondly, it will not induce corrosion elsewhere, as copper can do. Thirdly, it is a pretty poor electrical conductor, so if you use your water pipes to earth your mains electrics, you may have a problem there. Fourthly, you can solder copper, but you can only join CPVC with special adhesives (obviously you can use special connectors for both types of pipe). Fifthly, you can paint copper pipes, but CPVC will not be so keen to take on most paints. I believe copper is better than CPVC at operating in extreme temperatures, but I suspect that is not a problem in Georgia. Sixthly, if you have hard water and want to soften it by electromagnetism, copper pipes are much better than CPVC as they will induce an electromagnetic field and CPVC will not. Seventhly (?!) copper pipes, if made properly, may have better resistance to some unwanted chemicals sometimes found in drinking water. Eighthly, copper is pretty good at reducing and preventing arthritis and small doses of copper salts are good for you. Finally, CPVC is more up to date than copper, but personally I think copper has got "class"!

At the end of the day, it is up to you and your taste. Either way, do not do any plumbing work on the cheap -- get the correct materials for the job and get them certified at the POS -- a cheap job can result in catastrophic failure and water everywhere!

Trevor Crichton
R&D practical scientist - UK


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Hi Bellskye !

Re cost difference between copper and plastics, I haven't the slightest clue. Goest thou to thy nearest plumbing store and you'd find out.

Re PVC and CPVC. There is no difference except for price and CPVC's higher temperature resistance.

Certainly, PVC would be easier to install than copper and cost far less than CPVC.

PVC would, I feel, be ideal for all cold water lines. The standard pipe is approved for potable water. PVC or CPVC's disadvantages lie in being attacked by many solvents and cracking during a freeze-up (but Polyethylene can freeze up till the cows come home with impunity)

That PVC will leach out toxins is, hells bells, total nonsense. In schools rearing fish eggs, they all die, ie. the hatchlings do, if the water is fed in using copper pipes. But not with PVC. Please draw your own conclusions.

Summary ... use PVC ... and if you go to the 'library' on finishing.com, there's an article on How to and How Not to cement PVC.

Freeman Newton
- White Rock, B.C. Canada


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Use only CPVC for your hot and cold water supply lines. Go to http://www.flowguardgold.com/featuresBenefits/pipevscopper.asp and read comparisons and you will arrive at only one choice, CPVC. I am not associated with flowguardgold. If you add pipe insulation on CPVC supply lines, be sure it is recommended by the manufacturer and compatible with CPVC. CPVC can be painted with latex paints only (no solvent or oil based paint products should be used). PVC is fine for waste pipes.

Jim Vkoh
- Sarasota, Florida


(2004)

There is probably a lot of truth on that comparison sheet, Jim. But when a document is touted as a laboratory-based point-by-point comparison between two widely accepted alternatives, and they find huge advantage to their own system on 14 different points, and are utterly helpless to find even one single slim advantage to the alternate system on any count whatsoever, it condemns itself as not actually being an impartial laboratory-based comparison at all, but silly sales blather.

Take a lesson, salespeople: damn your competition by faint praise rather than by refusing to acknowledge anything whatsoever in their favor, it only makes you look close-minded :-)


Ted Mooney, P.E. 
finishing.com
Brick, New Jersey


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I am the Georgia Operations Manager for the largest Polybutylene remediation company in America. We offer both copper and CPVC. I will tell you that we have just a little bit better profit margin with copper but strongly suggest that people use CPVC as long as it is Flowguard Gold CPVC. Don't tempt yourself by mixing PVC and CPVC. CPVC is rated for both hot and cold, PVC is cold only, the outside diameter of the two are different so a wider variety of fittings will be necessary, the cements and applications are different, etc. I don't recommend the copper because of it's vulnerability to corrosion, (all water is corrosive to copper). The corrosion dissolves into your potable supply adding heavy metals like tin, antimony, of course copper as well as sulfites and sulfates. Flowguard Gold is quieter, will outlast the copper, and you don't have to use a torch in a finished home to install it.

Gary Andrews
- Lawrenceville, Georgia


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I JUST INSTALLED PVC FOR MY HOT WATERLINES AM I IN TROUBLE.

G BOONE
HOMEOWNER - DAYTONA, Florida


Sorry, G, PVC gets soft as cooked spaghetti at 140 to 150 degrees. It's not going to be any good.


Ted Mooney
finishing.com
Brick, New Jersey

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Ed. note: There are credible reports further down the thread that claim that PVC is not a problem for domestic hot water lines.


+++++++

All these posts about PVC pipe for cold water and no one mentions the main problem with such. PVC will leech your water if it gets above 73 degrees Fahrenheit. It is a underground pipe only and temp limit should be plainly printed on the pipe.

Raymond Haywood
- Tallassee, Alabama


March 15, 2008

I have worked for a major retailer selling all the three materials discussed here for some years. I have always been curious why cpvc didn't sell better than it does. Having read the posts on this topic let me take note that almost none of the posts here (with one exception) seem to come from people with much experience installing cpvc. I've researched this issue of copper vs. cpvc (from the manufacturers on down) for a while now. Seems there's only one logical reason cpvc was never widely accepted years ago when it was introduced: because it was plastic. As one state inspector concluded,,,it's really an issue of "perceived quality". An honest assessment should come up with the conclusion that there's nothing inherently wrong with cpvc and many advantages to it in fact. Sure, nothing prettier than a well laid out copper system,,,and yeah,,,it's stronger! but balanced against it's cost in material and time of installation,,,,cpvc should win any contest along those lines. Whole buildings are being laid in with this stuff now that copper prices are crazy. Now, with respect to pex: I think pex is wonderful for its' flexibility only. Pex is no godsend with respect to cost, those brass fittings add up. To conclude, when strength is needed, or when you get close to a high temperature source like a flue, I'd suggest you stick to metal. If flexibility is critical, go pex. If cost is important, and flexibility is not important than I say try cpvc and flowguard gold glue, I think it's so ridiculously easy and fast you'll be converted.

Pat McSherry
- Minneapolis, Minnesota

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Ed. note: Your input is very welcome, Pat, but please refrain from challenging the credentials of the other posters.


April 27, 2008

CPVC fittings ? hot/cold ? cold ONLY I am adding to and moving an install of cpvc, hot and cold runs... have found all the fittings I need except one and it says on the box, COLD water only... what's up with that...

Paul Williams
hobbyist - Macon, Georgia


May 17, 2008

Not often, but every now and then we get temps below freezing. Will CPVC burst? Thanks

Scott Darrn
- Tuscan, Arizona


June 10, 2008

I am in the process of making a decision about what material to use to replumb my house, originally built in 1956 in Central Florida. The more I read, the more confused I become. Not a big fan of plastics, I thought copper would be the best option but have been told by a plumber about major issues with the quality of water in the area and lighting causing pin holes. Does anyone have any knowledge and/or experience in Central Florida?

Sandra L.
- Orlando, Florida


November 24, 2008

I work in a plant house of a hospital.These days we are planning to replace the copper pipes to CPVC.According to my survey, I found CPVC better than all metals and PPR. it can handle a temperature of more than 95 degrees celc. and a pressure of more than 16 bar.It is more healthy than other materials.Furthermore, it easy to install.Just go through available manuals and select the right one.
ALL THE BEST.

Zuhair Hasan
- Manama , Bahrain


December 14, 2008

PPR is far better than CPVC & Copper. Main reason is the positive argument state for CPVC is equivalent to PPR and a few more advantages than cpvc can be listed. Thanks & best wishes...

Godly P.S.
plumber - Manama, Bahrain


July 6, 2009

Ted, (et al)

Regarding PVC for hot water lines... WHO in their right mind keeps their hot water lines at or above 140° anyways?! Just because the water heater is capable of such a feat, does not suggest it to be a good idea... And I have yet to see a plain 'ol Sched 40 PVC pipe soften "like a spaghetti noodle" at 140° - the Vicat (softening) point of the stuff is over 180°... That's where the material BEGINS to soften, not where it becomes a noodle...

That said... If you are under 140° on your hot water runs - which you should be... Go for it. I installed it over a decade ago as a new homeowner that didn't know any better, and my lines haven't flailed, failed, or shown any signs of wear yet. Funny how ignorance sometimes disproves "common logic"...

My .02 - take it for what it's worth.

M. Smith, Mechanical Engineer
- Hastings, Michigan


August 13, 2009

I would have to agree with Ted, I too have used pvc for both hot and cold, many times. I have had the same positives and also have had the split to the end if left to freeze. But I have had the same happen to copper and it cost a lot less to replace the plastic. As far as soft noodles... never seen it. May be worth a try though.

Jeff Homeman
- Clinton, Oklahoma


November 8, 2009

CPVC is not affected by sunlight to get deformed whereas PPR is.

zuhair hasan
- manama-bahrain


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