Looking for solution to darken copper (patina copper)+++
Q. I've been trying to figure out how to patina copper to a dark color -- the problem is that all the formulas out there are for green/blue patinas. You mentioned pool chlorine overnight to accomplish a green patina. Would I use the same thing to accomplish a dark patina except I would spray and wipe it off instead?Kendall Turner
- Upland, California
Q. I am trying to darken new copper tubing to match a Dark Patina Copper Sink. How do I darken the tubing to match?Wendy Dunn
- Fairport, New York
A. Liver of sulfur will darken copper to black =>
- Dallas, Texas
Q. Does anyone know a good home solution I can make to turn copper to a blue/black color?Garry Basinger
sheet metal - Katy, Texas
Q. I need to know how to do a dark patina on standard red flat finish copper. I am not looking for a green or blue patina, but more of an aged look with the dark bronze color. Is there some kind of chemical we can use to achieve this? This is for a backsplash and countertop area.
Interior Design - Blue Ridge, Georgia
A. Hi, Jessica.
You can get bottles of at this link on ebay. Good luck
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
Pine Beach, New Jersey
A. FYI folks: "Liver of Sulphur" is also known as "Sulfurated Potash," and is more readily found using that name instead.
"Liver of Sulphur" / "Sulfurated Potash" may be used for a brown to blackish-brown to nearly black patina. (More/longer exposure gets blacker.)
I found a wide range of DIY copper patinas at
(I have no affiliation with the referenced company, nor have I done business with them. I simply found their list of copper patina formulae in addition to this forum while searching for such info and saw benefit in spreading their info)
- Southfield, Michigan
November 5, 2008
A. I think the best product to use is Birchwood Casey antique black finishing gel.
It can be used at room temperature. Being a gel, you can use it on a flat surface or 3 dimensional shape,(no drips), and easy wash-off.
conceptual art media - Vancouver, BC, Canada
November 15, 2008
I find that Jax patina solutions =>
- Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Jax Green Patina
December 2, 2010
Q. Hello. Using liver of sulfur to change the copper to black which works if the water is hot and metal is hot. I had to clean fingerprints off the copper first with Muriatic acid then wash with water and fine steel wool. Is this the best way to make vertical copper black or is there another way? I have dipped sheets of copper in a bin with the liver of sulfur solution and spreads out evenly and nice. But I noticed maybe need to clean the Muriatic acid off better. Not getting even looks with the acid?Mark Phan
Owner Painting - Monterey, California US
August 10, 2011
Q. I am a hobbyist that is pressing copper by hand. I am eager to try this "liver of sulfur" but I am finding it difficult to find here in southern Ontario. Can anybody help me with vendor details, or at least where I can order some?Tim Little
hobbyist - Burlington, Ontario, Canada
August 10, 2011|
A. Hi, Tim. Probably the easiest source is Amazon =>
August 12, 2011
Hi, Ted. Thanx for your help. I was successful in my quest and found "liver of sulfur" in liquid form at "LacyTool.ca," They have several different products.Tim Little
- Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Liver of Sulphur
August 7, 2011
A. Hi, on a number of occasions I have had to turn large copper sculpture black and varying shades of brown as well. I use Birchwood Casey M-24 liquid solution. I will usually strip the original patina with Muriatic Acid or Soda blast it off. Both do a good job of etching the metal and providing a superior surface to reapply an even, adherent patina. I mix the solution with distilled water, 50/50 for browns, 100% for blacks. I spray it on with a HVLP sprayer at 20 psi and a 1.4-1.7 nozzle on the gun.
Heat the surface to an even temperature if possible using a patina torch 200 degrees TOPS! the more evenly heated the piece is the better patina you will get, trust me, take your time on this one it has been my experience that if you don't get the results you are looking for on the first 3-4 tries you will start to see areas of the finish peeling off. with a good even heat, spray, and proper prep work the finish will be a tough one to beat. If you get it too hot or reapply more than 4 times you will start to see a steely blue gray. That means its time to strip it and start over, it only gets worse from there. Let each application stay on for 20 min or until the metal cools then rinse with plenty of water, if the metal is still hot the water will streak the finish.
Rinsing from the bottom up helps eliminate any chance of streaking. While rinsing I GENTLY run my hand over the surface to remove any powdery residue the water doesn't. If I like it, I thoroughly spray it with acetone and top coat it with Permalac (outdoor) or Butchers/Renaissance wax (indoor); if not, I dry it with compressed air and reheat/reapply. Hope this helps!
Inner Metal Works - Bedford, Texas
Renaissance Museum Wax
How to darken / re-darken a copper roofJune 24, 2012
Q. I have a diluted/bleach(wood re-newer) run off on a copper roof.
What would be the most effective material/process to restore to surrounding black patina? Approx. 600 sq. ft.
- Woodstock, New York, USA
September 26, 2013
I recently cleaned a copper roof over a bay window with a solution of vinegar lemon juice and salt. The copper has now started to re-oxidize but in a uneven streaky way that looks horrible (hues from rust to light green). Is this normal and will the patina eventually even out in color? If not, any recommendations on products that will darken the patina to a dark uniform brown color.
- Chicago, Illinois
March 12, 2014
Q. I am looking for the same response. I have been searching online trying to find either a service or product to help bring life to my bay window copper roof! I am looking to have the color after 25 years and dark oil rub bronze color. I am not sure which way to turn. Help PLEASE!
Homeowner - MADISON, Alabama US
March 16, 2014
A. Hi guys!
Now everyone on this thread seems to be asking a similar question about getting copper to a darker patina. There are two that seem to be in vogue here, and while you can make something that approximates what you want with a patina, nothing really is going to look as good as time will give you. If you want it now, here are two methods to do green and brown patinas on copper.
1. Green patina.
Mix darkening solution of 2 parts white vinegar, 0.50 part non-iodized salt, and 1.5 parts of clear, detergent-free ammonia. Spray on the area you want to patina and reapply every 1-2 hours until you get the color you want. The patina will look powdery, leave it alone, it will eventually work in the copper and get to that more 'glazed' look. 72 hours or so from when you apply it you should have a better idea of what the final look is.
2. Brown patina.
You need to dissolve baking soda in boiling water until it won't dissolve any more. Spray on to the area to be patinated after the solution has cooled, and reapply every 2 hours or so. This one will reach more towards the color of an old penny.
Blacksmith - Lenoir, North Carolina USA
March 28, 2014
I am new and just discovered this site when I went looking for copper patina info. I need to know if I need to clean the copper after handling it when playing or if I can put patina over the fingerprints and not worry! Is there a site everyone prefers to learn, or is this the hobby one of those that you just try different things and learn? <grin> I want to make tiles 4"-6" and wonder which backing would work the best to use under the soft copper 36 gauge or even if I need it. I know, lots of questions and this may be the wrong place so gently tell me to get lost...<grin>
Interior Designer - Vancouver Washington - USA
March 28, 2014
You do need to have your surface clean of fingerprints. If you don't you'll end up with an irregular patina, I usually use disposable nitrile or latex gloves when I'm doing patina or finishing work. Heavier gloves if I'm dealing with anything highly caustic/corrosive.
At 36 gauge you're dealing with something that is more akin to foil or leaf. I'd highly suggest some sort of backing, but it really depends upon where these tiles are going to be used and if they are going to experience any wear. Ceramic will probably be the goto for doing it though.
For learning more about patinas and processes associated with such I highly suggest a couple of afternoons at your local public library or university. There is a wealth of information on patinas and finishes, you just need to put the time in.
Blacksmith - Lenoir, North Carolina USA