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Letter 17560
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 built by Jeremy Melis (see entry of October 30,2008) |
 built by Peter Amos (see July 18, 2009) |
 built by Tyler Feldman (see entry of August 15, 2009) |
 built by James Sampson (see Sept. 22, 2009) |
 built by Ron Steele (see entry of May 26, 2009) |
 built by Nick Deihi, Wallingford, Pennsylvania | ||
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 Joe Clarey's work in progress (see Sept. 30, 2009) |
Recently, several friends and I have started a very unusual project. Using beer bottle caps (over 2500), we are constructing a very unique mosaic-style table top. However, we have not come up with a good method for "sealing" the gaps between the caps in order to create a smooth, level table top. One idea we are currently exploring is the use of a very thick (~1/4 inch) layer of exterior polyurethane. This presents three major concerns. 1) Will it dry if applied in a "pour and spread" fashion? 2) Is the polyurethane too volatile to use on the painted/colored bottle caps? 3) Will the polyurethane bond to the metal at all? Can you please provide me with any suggestions or insight you may have into solving this problem. Is there a better material, or will polyurethane be sufficient?
For the record, the caps are secured with poly-resin to a wood surface. The caps are arranged in hexagon fashion which minimizes the amount of "gap." The table is 7x3, and has a frame surrounding it which makes the cap surface appear recessed. The plan is to have a clear coating which comes up to the level of the frame, thus making the entire table top level. Thank you for your anticipated help.
William Holby
- Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I have seen bar tops done using a two part clear mix. You might check with an arts and crafts store for the material, or maybe a hobby shop. The 2 part mix cures by chemical reaction, so it does not need the air. I think a thick poly coat would take very long to set up and would not give the surface you desire.
Good luck,
Ed Kay
- St. Louis, Missouri
What did you decide to do? I am just starting to collect bottle caps for the same purpose. I only have 12 so far, but getting there.
Jennifer Kiel
- Lansing, Illinois
[U.S. Composites] sells Epoxy Resin which is the product most commonly used on bar tops and table tops in many bars and restaurants.
You can purchase this epoxy through [their] website and print the directions for use.
Product Description:
This product is a 100% solid, two component, clear polymer coating
that is mixed at 1 to 1 ratio by volume. Each kit containers a bottle
of resin and a bottle of hardener. The product cures to a clear, high
build, glass like finish that resists scratching, yellowing and will
not distort with age. Items coated with it will become permanently
preserved and protected for your enjoyment throughout a lifetime.
This product will not exhibit blushing or sweat out under high
humidity conditions.
Chris LaRose
- Centreville, Virginia
Ed. note: An alternate source is
Environmental Tech EnviroTex Lite
[link is to product info at MisterArt] according to
another writer (see letter 12362).
I work at a bar and I have collected a TON of bottle caps to make
a table!
I am making it a beer pong table 7 x 2.5 in.
I am unsure of what to use to attach the bottle caps to the
table.
Also, should I put plexiglass on top, or some sort of epoxy finish?
Sarah Peterlin
Student - Chicago, Illinois
use two part self leveling epoxy. just go to your local paint store and pick it up. its not cheap tho.
Josh vanslovie
- brick, New Jersey
William,
Am curious to know if you finished the project and how it turned out.
I'm in the middle of a similar project--a poker table with a summer's
worth of me and buddies' beer caps around the perimeter. We're using
"Kleer Kote", the US Composites epoxy mentioned above. We've
seal-coated the table, and are in process of securing the caps to the
table prior to the first "flood" coat. If you've finished, please
update on how it turned out, and if you have any advise for the final
coats (which are the ones I'm most worried about). Thanks.
Jeremy Melis
- Dallas, Texas
Update: We finished our poker table, and it looks great. The resin is both easy and a pain in the butt. Requires much patience. We'll be making more tables.
Jeremy Melis
- Dallas, Texas
Jeremy, I am thinking about doing a poker table very similar to yours, but I am thinking about doing the whole table instead of the outside. Do you have a problem with cards or chips sliding on the Kleer Kote?
Scott Phillips
- Edwardsville, Illinois
Scott,
We were going to do something exactly like what you're talking about
as well, although we ended up upholstering the center, we may do that
in the future--a whole table, with cards and chips in the center. My
recommendation would be to apply the first thin 'seal' coat, and
after it sets, but while it's still tacky, lay your stuff out on it.
the seal coat should hold onto it pretty well during the flood coats.
Keep in mind that each flood coat will only be about 1/8" thick, and
you'd probably want 3 or 4 to give you enough depth with chips
encased. Something else you could do with the cards to give them more
dimension is to put some of them down before each flood coat, which
would make some of them "float" at different depths...
I think I misunderstood originally--thought you were talking about putting cards or chips in the resin, and were asking about them sliding around while pouring it. If you were just talking about the playing surface itself, I think it would be fine. There's only about 5" around the perimeter on ours, but it's decent for moving chips and cards on. It's actually probably a little less "slidey" than the felt we have in the center, so I don't know how well a card would slide all across it, but it's probably manageable.
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Jeremy Melis |
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February 19, 2009 So will the epoxy clear coat discolor say photos? Would you laminate them first? Brian Kleinfall
February 26, 2009 I am planning on doing the same thing for a beer pong table. How did you keep the beer caps down? Did you adhere them to the table before applying the resin or did you put them in between layers of the resin? Emery Dudensing
March 1, 2009 I'm also making a beer pong table but I had a few questions. Should I adhere the caps to the table first so they wont float in the epoxy? And if so what's the best type of adhesive to use. Also with the epoxy that has to be mixed does it create a lot of bubbles in the epoxy itself? Mike Marks
March 18, 2009 When we did this table, I put a "seal coat" (thin layer)
of the resin down to seal off the wood. If you wanted to,
you could put your caps down directly on this while it's
drying. We waited until the seal coat was dry, and adhered
them to the table w/ plain old Elmer's school glue (just
squirt some on cardboard, press/scoot your cap around on it,
and then place on the table). Floating caps aren't a big
problem, but you want to stick them to the table one way or
the other, or it makes it difficult to spread your first
'flood' coat out and get between them all. On our next
table, we'll probably glue the caps to the raw wood, and
then seal coat the table and caps at the same time to save a
little time. |
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Jeremy Melis |
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Hey, another pong table question:
1. What type of lacquer/resin did you use exactly, and what was the
cost.
2. Will a ping pong ball bounce on it? Thanks.
Michael Beam
- State College, Pennsylvania
Response to bubbles in the resin...
If you apply heat to the resin, the bubbles will go away. I have used
a torch to do this and it takes less than a minute to make the
bubbles go away.
Good luck with all of your projects and hope this helped.
Cody Robertson
- Plano, Texas
What would be the best way to contain the resin to only the areas over the caps? For example, if you wanted the caps going right to the end of the table/wood, would a small piece of trim attached to the end suffice for containing the resin? Would a small bead of caulk between the edge and the trim be enough to hold in the resin? Any insight from people who have used the product would be awesome!!
Chad Romblad
- Woonsocket, Rhode Island
The way I did it was to build up "fences" around the exterior
perimeter, and around the interior edge of where the caps would be.
Also put in wood separators between sections since the cap shape and
size didn't make for perfect octagonal sections. All of these
elements were about 1/2" high overall. I wanted a completely smooth
surface, so I poured the resin in layers (approx. 1/8" each) until
the resin went over the top of the "fences", and ran over the sides.
That's what I recommend, as it self-levels, and gives you a slightly
rounded edge automatically. All you have to worry about then is
smoothing the side edges while the resin is wet, and grinding down
the hard drips around the outside bottom and the overflow around the
inside.
As for the caulking question, if you glue down your "fences" you
shouldn't have too much of an issue w/ seepage. Plus, the first coat
you'll do would be a seal coat (thinner than the remaining flood
coats), which when dry, would help close up any gaps prior to the
flood coat.
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Jeremy Melis |
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It was very generous of you to share your photograph and such deep detail regarding how to do it, Jeremy. Awesome work. Thanks!
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 Ted Mooney finishing.com Brick, New Jersey |
I had good results with the US Composites Kleer Kote table top epoxy. I built a portable bar and used the epoxy to encapsulate bottle caps for the bar top.
more pics:
http://s616.photobucket.com/albums ... cap%20bar/
Ron Steele
- Northampton, Pennsylvania
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Ed. note: Thanks, Ron. Looks great!
Hey Jeremy. Once again thanks for all the great responses and I'm almost done with collecting all my bottle caps needed. Would different types of wood be a problem with the epoxy actually seeping into the wood? What kind of wood did you use as the table and "fences". I was actually just thinking of buying wood those big flat pieces of wood from Lowe's and was wondering if that will be fine as the table top. Thanks again
Robert Miller
- Miami, Florida
I am unclear how to finish the sides of the built-up resin when it is still wet. Do you remove the fences after pouring each flood coat? And what material/process do you finish it with?
James Ratchford
- Blowing Rock, North Carolina
Hey guys, the tables look awesome! i have been saving my caps for about 7 years now and have over 25,000 I'm planning to do the complete top of my workbench in my garage, my question is with regards to the final look of the resin/epoxy, is there any buffing or wet sanding required to get the finish you guys managed to achieve? Thanks
Derek Allen
- Keswick,Ontario,Canada
Hi Derek,
No buffing or sanding will be required. If applied as directed, the
epoxy dries with a nice shiny finish.
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Ron Steele |
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Thanks everyone for the great comments. I'll try to answer a few
of the latest questions.
Above, Joe was asking about resin for an exterior application. Make
sure you search specifically for exterior products. Most clear resins
are basically just poured plastic, and will yellow if exposed to UV
rays over time.
Robert--I don't think wood type will be a problem. I use plywood for
the table, and just ripped down pine for the "fences". The key to
that if you're worried about seepage or adsorption is a thin seal
coat prior to the flood coats. Once that's dry, you wont have to
worry about any further seeping. The biggest issue is the first
couple flood coats...you're going to have tons of bubbles come from
underneath the caps as the resin seeps underneath (even if you've
glued them down). Again, once you get one or two coats down, it will
seal the gaps and you won't have to worry anymore.
James--depends on what look you want. You can see Ron's table has
resin that stops short of the top of the border, and looks beautiful.
I wanted a smooth edge for the poker table, so my fences were just
higher than the caps, and I poured enough layers to go over the top
of the fences, and drip down the sides. It's an awesome look too, and
you just have to watch in the beginning for excess drips. Every
couple of minutes, run a foam brush around the edge and it smooths
out easily. Only other things to watch for are drips on the bottom,
and overflow in the middle (in our case). Just scoop or flatten those
out as much as possible w/ a blockbuster card or similar, and sand or
grind the excess off after it's cured.
Derek--no final sanding is needed. Just pour your last coat, pop the
bubbles, and keep dust and bugs away from it while drying. You'll end
up with a beautiful and smooth surface. With 25,000 caps, you ought
to be able to make a really nice looking decorative case for your
liver, which must've fallen out by now :)
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Jeremy Melis |
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Thank you all for sharing your experiences with making these
tables. I just started today building a table that will be 8' x 2'
8". I'm using about 3500 caps to create a design on the table top.
The only thing I haven't decided yet is whether to let the Kleer Kote
flow over the edge or to have a small lip on the edge of the table.
If I let the epoxy overflow, I don't want the epoxy to slope very far
into the table. Jeremy, about how much of your table is flat, i.e.
how far from the edge does your slope start?
Thanks so much; For everyone else planning to build a table, I'll
post pictures when it's finished in a few weeks.
Peter Amos
- Charlotte, North Carolina / Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
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July 20, 2009 Ron, how much of the Kleer Kote Epoxy did you need for that table? I plan on making a 4' x 8' table with an edge just a little higher than the caps, and I would like the epoxy to go all the way to the top of the edging. Emily Hoffman
July 22, 2009 Hi, Emily. A gallon is 231 cubic inches, and a 4' x 8' table is 4608 square inches. So one gallon will cover it to a depth of 231/4608 = 0.05 inches. 10 gallons will cover it to a depth of 0.5" or 1/2"; 5 gallons to a depth of 1/4". Regards,
July 27, 2009 Love your tables - they look great! Ten years ago, I painted my kitchen counter top with a great geometrical design, and then covered it with resin. The resin has held up fabulously... the only problem is the area near the kitchen window has yellowed over time, and the entire counter top is not quite as shiny as it used to be (ten years of kitchen abuse!). Do you have any suggestions on how I can repair the yellowed sections? Is there a way to resurface the resin, to get rid of the yellowing and make it shiny again? Thanks for any suggestions at all! Laura DiFiore
July 29, 2009 I'm in the process of creating a bar with bottle caps in a 2 part epoxy similar to the projects found here. I'm using Parks Super Glaze found at Home Depot. I'm going to be using several flood coats but I'm wondering if I have to let each flood coat fully cure (directions say 72 hours) before applying the next flood coat or if I can apply subsequent flood coats once it is hard enough that the liquid coats won't mix together into one really thick coat. Anyone have any advice for this? Thanks. Mike Chambers |
I am making a beer pong table using bottle caps and the klear kote resin. The table is 2.5 x 7 feet. If I buy 2 gallons I will have enough for a seal coat, one flood coat and about 80 oz. left over. Should I spend the money to buy 4 gallons or will one flood coat be enough? Also should I fill the underside of the caps with some kind of plaster or caulk to prevent air bubbles from rising from under the caps? I am also thinking about using some sort of waterproof tile grout to fill in the gaps between the caps. I am trying to minimize the cost of the whole project. Any help or ideas?
Paul Cross
- Florence, Alabama
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August 7, 2009 Thanks for the responses guys, my liver should still be in decent shape, its been a team effort to get that many caps! i know of 2 people with over 100,000 caps each so I'm not alone in my vast amount. I'm hoping to tackle my workbench over the winter, ill keep an eye on this thread and post pics when I'm finally done. Derek Allen
August 12, 2009 I have been trying to find a product in Canada that will
do the trick, and the only thing I can come up with is
Enviro-Tech Lite
[
Environmental Tech EnviroTex Lite
My table top will have wine corks and bottle caps, and
possibly a broken up plate or two, so the finished depth
will be about 1". I am also trying to figure out how much
product I will actually need! You know girls and math! lol
It's a 48" round table top. Suzanne Murphy |
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Hi, Suzanne. I'd suggest something a bit less challenging for a first attempt, like a very small item with a 1" thick coat, or a more conventional thickness on this table.
The area of a circle is π r2, so a 48" round table is 1810 square inches. If you wanted a coating 1" thick, that's 1810 cubic inches, whereas a gallon is 231 cubic inches. Even no-math girly girls can divide 1810 by 231 to figure the gallons :-)
Regards,
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Ted Mooney finishing.com Brick, New Jersey |
Hi all,
I had posted this to a different forum discussing bottle cap bar tops
where many were asking for instructions, but since that site requires
an account to view the thread, I thought it might be a good idea to
post it here as well.
Good luck with your projects! I look forward to seeing pictures when
they are finished.
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I'll attempt to write a brief how-to and list the problems I saw.
Please forgive me if this post gets lengthy.
First, decide what you want your bar top to look like. I made a few
prototypes with different cap placement patterns and with/without
grout. Pics can be found here:
s616.photobucket.com/albums/tt244/rsteel02/caps%20to%20trade/bar%20top%20prototypes/
Problems identified thanks to the prototypes:
1: Stirring the epoxy too long results in oodles of embedded bubbles
that are impossible to get out resulting in cloudy looking
epoxy
2: The caps will float if the first epoxy coat is too thick and the
caps aren't glued down or grouted.
3: If the caps aren't sealed with grout or a thin layer of epoxy, big
bubbles can sneak out from under the cap after the epoxy is too hard
set to pop them - very bad!!
4: Pressing caps into a layer of grout doesn't always seal the cap
and prevent bubbles.
5: Seal any cracks or gaps in the bar top frame with clear caulk. The
epoxy will slowly seep through any gap or even a nail hole and make a
mess.
Now on to how I did it.
Step 1: Prepare the bar top. I installed the edges of the bar top
roughly 1/4 inch higher than the top of the caps. The final epoxy
coat covers the caps by about 1/8 inch. Don't forget to caulk/seal
gaps to prevent unwanted epoxy leaking.
Step 2: Glue down the caps in the desired pattern. I used model
cement left over from some plastic model car kits. Each caps was
glued with two or three drops of glue around the perimeter, usually
where it touched other caps.
Step 3: Apply grout. I used unsanded black grout I bought at Lowe's.
It was applied with a gallon ziploc bag with the corner cut so it
functioned like a pastry bag. The prototypes helped me figure out how
much grout looked good while not putting it on too thick and covering
most of the caps.
Step 4: After the grout has dried and the caps have been cleaned
thoroughly, it's time for the epoxy seal coat. I used US Composites
Kleer Kote table top epoxy and applied it as specified in the
directions. Note: the directions also give guidance for encapsulating
other thing like pictures and newspaper.
uscomposites.com/kk121.html
Step 5: Baby sit the epoxy for the first 30-45 minutes. During this
time bubbles can be easily popped with toothpicks and a blow torch
(also noted in the epoxy directions). A bright light source is great
for finding pet hair etc. that floated into the epoxy. Just move
around and look for disturbances in the reflection of the light
source. Once the epoxy starts getting firm, you can't touch the
surface without ruining it.
Step 6: Wait several hours and apply the thick final epoxy coat as
directed.
Step 7: Repeat step 5
Step 8: Walk away, cross your fingers and check it the next day. If
all went well, it will look great and not be sticky.
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Ron Steele |
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Hey all I just finished my project table for my school using the kleer kote from us composites. If any of you have any questions feel free to let me know.
Good luck on all your projects
Tyler Feldman
- Cleveland, Ohio
Tyler: Your table is awesome! good job! Did you fill the epoxy to
the level of your table edge, or did you allow the epoxy to flow up
and over the wooden edge of your table? Any tips on affixing the caps
to the table at the start?
thanks!
caprice Vreeland
- St. Petersburg, Florida
Just finished my table last night using the U.S. Composites Klear
Kote epoxy. It looks great! I think Ron did a great job of explaining
the steps to using the epoxy. As a side note, I used lighters and a
creme brulee torch to pop the bubbles, and both worked really
well.
Peter
Peter Amos
- Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
September 3, 2009
I am trying to make a beer-pong table about 8"x3", how many bottles of Kleer Kote would it take to do it?
Josh Neal
Hobbyist - Tyler, Texas
Multiply the length in inches times the width in inches times the depth in inches for the volume of Kleer Kote needed in cubic inches. A gallon is 231 cubic inches, so divide by 231 for the volume in gallons. Good luck.
I've explained the calculation three times, but there are an infinite number of possible table sizes and we don't want this beautiful thread to deteriorate into a boring litany of how much Kleer Kote is needed for every possible table size :-)
Regards,
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Ted Mooney finishing.com Brick, New Jersey |
After reading this thread I ordered 4 gallons of Kleer Kote from US Composites. I laid around 1500 caps on a 2 1/2' x 6' folding table. I used a drizzle coating of Kleer Kote to seal the caps down to the table before pouring a partial flood poor. I'll have plenty of Kleer Kote left, probably more than a gallon. Thanks for all the great advice.
James Sampson
- Mary Esther, Florida
How do you achieve a continuous edge? I would like the side of the
table top to have the same lacquer finish as the surface. My fear is
that even when using a removable metal fence, the lacquer will adhere
to the material and/or loose some of its natural luster.
Does anyone have experience with this treatment?
Wm. Shook
- Laguna Beach, California
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November 23, 2009 Re: Wm. Shook's continuous edge question...
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Great tables everybody!
I've been checking in on this thread every few months since the
beginning of the year.
A housemate and I have constructed a similar table over here in
Australia, but can't find an appropriate epoxy to finish it
with.
We've tried a couple of 2-part polyurethane casting resins, but the
exposed surface doesn't finish flat and hard. We've been back to our
local composite supplier, they don't think we can do better.
Can't find Kleer Kote or US composite products anywhere over here,
and emails to US Composites have gone unanswered.
If anyone has ideas, I'm all ears. :)
Ahh well, just thought I'd stop lurking and let you all know these
tables look great, and post a pic of our effort:
Joe Clarey
- Townsville, QLD, Australia
I just poured the Epoxy Resin on my beer pong table but I don't think I mixed it very well. It's been three days and it is kinda getting harder but still really sticky but there are a couple of spots where it is still just gooey! What can I do to fix this?
Krisitne Nelson
- Bradenton, Florida
hi this is what i am trying to do: can those of you that have made
these awesome tables please chime in....
i want to make a portable (either by hinging it or just having it two
separate pieces) poker table out of 3/4" plywood w/ bottle caps and
then coat it with klear kote epoxy.
i have a few questions
-will 3/4" plywood be thick enough??
-would you recommend have it be pourable - will i have to worry about
the clearcoat cracking because of the plywood twisting or being
carried on its side?
also i and looking for wooden chip racks/cup holders if any ones
knows a good place to get them let me know
thank you
cole
cole Davis
- New Jersey
Hi, Cole. I haven't made a bottle cap table, but I've done a fair bit of ceramic tiling (which is at least as brittle) on 3/4" plywood. In one case as a stand for a clothes dryer, where it was fine. In another case as a stand for a 300+ pound wood stove, where some tiles and grout cracked over time.
Although the question actually depends on the unsupported span, if you use it for playing poker, and just carrying around, I'm confident it will be fine.
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But if you take it someplace with a lot of drinking & fun, you'll be jealous when the girls are dancing on the other tables and you have to tell them they can't dance on yours :-) Regards,
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haha
well i guess that will all depend on the strength of the the table i
put it on. :-) since it will just be a table top.
thanks again
cole
cole Davis
- New Jersey
November 18, 2009
Hello,
I am in charge of our 5th grade class school auction project where we
decided to do a bottle cap coffee table. We found a coffee table at a
goodwill store that used to have glass in the center which is now
missing. We thought this would be a perfect place to put the bottle
caps if we attached plywood underneath the table where the glass used
to be. In the meantime we wanted to order plain caps on-line, have
the kids paint them, glue them to the plywood (which will have been
painted by then) and then pour the epoxy-resin over the caps as the
directions call for. I want to know if the epoxy will have an adverse
effect on the paint the kids put on the caps. We were going to have
them use paint pens, or even perhaps Sharpie markers to save money. I
am getting worried about too many different elements getting into the
mix, as we would be stripping the coffee table and painting it black,
painting the plywood black; applying the caps and seal coats of the
epoxy as I have been researching in all of your directions, I just
wasn't sure about the paint on the caps, and if there was a certain
paint I should use?
Beth Walker
- Nashville, Tennessee
Kristine,
This may be a little late to help with your predicament. The
gooey/sticky undried epoxy is a result of incomplete mixing. I had
this happen with one of my prototypes. I was able to scrape off most
of the undried stuff and put on a new well mixed flood coat to solve
the problem.
Beth,
I didn't see any reaction between any of the painted caps I used and
the epoxy. The best way to be sure is to make a small test case using
your desired paints and see what happens.
Good luck!
Ron
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Ron Steele |
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Ron,
I used a small wooden tray and painted it black since that is the
color that our coffee table will be. It turns out that paint pens are
the best medium of paint to use on our caps. Since our caps were not
previously covered with primer or acrylic paint, the acrylic
decorative paint the kids applied just peeled right off. The sharpie
markers that the art teacher recommended, blurred and ran together
after the epoxy was poured on. The paint pens went on easily, were
durable and showed up well after the epoxy was applied. Thanks so
much for the reply. We will see how the master project goes.
Beth Walker
- Nashville, Tennessee
Hello,
All of the responses on this thread have been extremely helpful so
far, so thank you! I completed covering a 36" round wood table with
bottle caps a little while back, and have since been debating how to
cover it. Friends originally suggested a plexiglass table top, but
now I am leaning toward using the epoxy because I love the way it
looks.
My question is about the edges...since this is a round table with no
edges that would stop the epoxy from dripping, I was planning on
using removable fences. I'm just worried that the removable fences
will get stuck to the epoxy as it dries, or that when I pull them off
it won't be even. Does anyone know if this will happen? And if so,
how can I prevent this?
Thank you so much, and the tables shown are all fantastic! I only
hope mine will look half as good!
Jordan Lloyd
- Austin, Texas
December 31, 2009
Hey there,
All of these projects look amazing! I'm trying to build my own
beer-cap shuffle board and was wondering how smooth the kleer koat
table epoxy was? A lot of shuffleboard tables I've seen use a clear
gloss oil based polyurethane. Would I be able to maybe coat this on
top of the epoxy covered caps/table? or is that a no go?
Ben Hintz
student - Chico, California
Hi Jordan,
I can't comment from personal experience regarding using a removable
fence. The klear kote instructions offer some guidance on page three
under advanced techniques. I have heard of others who used a
temporary edge to build up the epoxy thickness followed by a final
coat without the edge to allow the epoxy to run over for a better
looking edge. The best advice I can offer is make a small prototype
to see if the removable edge you plan to use will be
successful.
http://www.shopmaninc.com/pdf/kkote.pdf
Hi Ben,
My bar top is super smooth thanks to the epoxy self leveling while
still liquid. There is only a tiny upward curve within 1/8" of the
edges where the surface tension of the epoxy crept up the wood edges
a little bit. I would guess the extra polyurethane coat will be
unnecessary.
Good luck with your projects!
Ron
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Ron Steele |
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January 21, 2010 I am planning on building an 8 x 4 ft beer pong table using a layer of bottle caps on top of plywood. My question is what do you guys recommend i use to glue the caps down and also cover the tops with. Please keep in mind the cover surface has to be hard enough for a good bounce with a ping pong ball. I started planning with plexiglass, but that'll cost me $90 and would prefer a cheaper solution. Cole juelfs
January 21, 2010 Hi, Cole. Cost is always an object, but these bottle cap epoxy tables will unfortunately cost you more than $90 in epoxy. Regards,
January 28, 2010 Your site is amazing. We're down in Southern Italy and
have made a mosaic table for outdoors but have been trawling
the internet for ages to work out what to seal it with to
ensure protection and a flat surface. Kleer Kote will
hopefully be the answer. Now the problem is how to get it to
Italy! Thanks for all your input. Chris Brunnock
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