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letter 17339
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Hello, Sharon. You could get the sheet in plain, rather than hammered -- then in letter 34185, the readers tell you how to hammer the pattern yourself. They suggest that it is relatively easy, and better than settling for someone's else's hammer pattern anyway. I haven't tried it myself, and can't predict how good a job you could do. Good luck!
++ I want to use copper as a backsplash in the kitchen. How can I seal/coat/treat it to keep it from getting stained and to make it easy to clean. Thanks, Roberta C ---- ++++ Hello; I am looking for hammered Copper sheet metal to build a vent hood out of. Please send any Info you might have. Thanks, JACK S |
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I am remodeling my kitchen. Many of the accents are copper (faucet, cabinet pulls). I would like to put up a copper backsplash rather than tile. I assume it would be copper sheeting. I would like to do the whole backsplash area. It would be about 40 square feet. Has any one done this before and if so, do you have suggestions about where to start? (what gauge of copper sheeting, how to adhere it to the wall, any design hints, are there fabricators who work with this type of project, should I polyurethane it? ) Any help on how to begin with this project would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Nancy R![]()
homeowner - Evanston, Illinois
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I put up two-foot square metal tiles as a backsplash in my kitchen. However, I used powder coated steel rather than copper sheet. Liquid Nails worked. Lacquer is designed specifically for copper and brass products, and may prove more satisfactory than polyurethane (plus it's easily removable). Good luck.
November 10, 2009 I am trying to put up individual metal tiles behind my kitchen range. I am trying to use liquid nails but the tiles fall down. Do I need to put the liquid nail on the tile and let it sit for a few minutes before putting it on the wall or am I using the wrong adhesive? Shirl Coleman |
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Hi, Shirl. I used 2' x 2' tiles, so they all rested on the counter top backsplash, and the limited stickiness of the uncured Liquid Nails was enough to hold them in that case. But I understand the problem with smaller tiles. My kitchen project was 3 years ago so the memory isn't fresh, but I think it's supposed to be at least a little tacky before you put the tile on the wall.
There are adhesives like contact cement that will hold, but they have the disadvantage of grabbing permanently, almost instantly. I can't say what's best because of such limited experience, but the tile manufacturer may have a suggestion. Good luck.
Regards,
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Ted Mooney finishing.com Brick, New Jersey |

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