Letter 11997

19 carat white gold 

We are in the process of deciding on the metal to be used in our engagement ring. The jeweler has suggested 19 carat white gold but we do not have any information on this since most people often recommend platinum. We want the ring to be white and keep its polish for as long as possible. Which would you recommend? And, what are the advantages of 19 carat over platinum?

Your early reply would be appreciated.

Thx.

R. Chin
- Vancouver, B.C., Canada

Hello R.,

White gold would be easier to polish than platinum, but it won't keep its polish as well. If you are planning on engraving the ring, gold is softer, and the engraving will wear off easier. Jewelers will usually coat white gold with rhodium, this keeps the gold from oxidizing, but the rhodium plating will wear quickly. The jeweler I was recommended to said he would replate the rhodium for free as long as he is in business - I trust the guy, but I also know that rhodium is cheap, so I can go elsewhere if need be. Other than that, figure on paying about 3 times more for a platinum band. Personally, I don't like the way platinum looks between polishings, a look that resembles a dinged up aluminum can to me.

Good luck to you and your future spouse,

Jake Koch G. J. Nikolas & Co., Inc. Bellwood, Illinois

Hi, to start with make sure you do not have any known allergies to white gold which contains nickel as the alloy. Secondly, 19 karat doesn't necessarily get you much more whiteness, so don't pay more than you should for the extra karat. Also be aware that most white gold is plated with a whiter bright metal called Rhodium. This plating lasts about 2 years and is used to enhance the surface whiteness of white gold. It does not last forever, periodic replating will need to be done. Make sure you ask the jeweler about a written guarantee for their rhodium plated products. If you are looking for toughness and durability with reasonable whiteness than Platinum is clearly the best choice. So here are the choices: white gold with "palladium" as the alloy instead of nickel, platinum metal jewelry instead of white gold or white gold with a rhodium plated finish for an additional whiter appearance with the acceptance of periodic replating to preserve its white appearance.

Good luck and congratulations!

David Vinson Metal Arts Specialties Leonard, Michigan

Platinum is more expensive but much better if you can afford it. Keep in mind you will be wearing your wedding ring every day.

Neil Bell Red Sky Plating Albuquerque, New Mexico

Hi R,

If you want to put long lasting same shine then you should do clear coating. It'll last more then 5 to 6 years.

Good luck,

Dipen Pattni
jeweler/goldsmith - Dar-Es-Salaam, Tanzania

My wedding ring is white gold--I have no idea of the karat, but probably is 14 or 18. It is 41 years old and has never needed polishing despite being exposed to a laundry list of chemicals. The original pattern is gone and is now a basic ring. Not too bad for "soft" gold after that long.

James Watts
- Navarre, Florida

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