Painting asphalt roof shingles

A. I painted my 1st shingle roof about 10 years ago. At that time the roof was 16 years old and beginning to shed granules (which made it dangerous to make my annual inspections). I used 2 coats of [brand name deleted] Roof Paint.About 5 years later I went over the roof with white elastomeric. Later that year we had 2 hurricanes ( category 1 and 2)-no tabs were lost on this 21 yr old roof, yet 30 and 40 tabs were lost on my nearby 10 and 13 yr old shingle roofs. I patched these roofs and 1st coated each with roof paint then top coated them with 2 coats White. One important note-I roll on the 1st coat (with 3/4 in.roller) then laboriously brush paint (to fill and seal)between each tab. This stops water from getting under the tabs.Then roll on the 2nd coat.
On my 1600 sq ft home I used 5 buckets at $75 each for the 2 coats and maybe 20 hours of labor.The result is a roof that I believe will withstand category 1 and 2 hurricanes (maybe a cat 3) plus savings in my AC costs as well as extending the life of my roofs. I have inspected my attic roofs and have not seen any moisture damage .

Barry Rank Jr
- West Palm Beach, Florida
August 14, 2009

---

! I have been considering a white elastomeric coating for a very dark (dark grey to black) and somewhat old (at least 10 years old) asphalt composite shingle roof. I'd like to know more about Barry R's method for brushing paint to fill and seal between the tabs. Did you attempt to lift each "tab" (shingle?) up to paint under it, or did you paint over the space between each shingle and its neighbor? Thanks for any additional info, and for the great tips already provided!

Masi Jay
- Redlands, California, USA
May 9, 2011

A. My sister-in-law painted her shingles in the Bahamas with a white elastomeric coating. It has held up well to the sun and wind. Her house is directly on the Atlantic so she gets strong winds.

I don't understand the concern about moisture rotting the plywood. Any moisture that penetrates under the shingles and tar paper should quickly evaporate. Plywood is not a vapor barrier.

Will Haltiwanger
Retired Engineer - Columbia, South Carolina
September 29, 2009

Some of the things I've read on this site are untrue. I've done plenty of research on the subject.
If you want to seal your shingles use a product with a high permeability, which allows them to breathe. There are companies out there who have products like this with colors. You also want a high elasticity. Avoid the ceramics if you are looking for energy savings as they are a scam and overpriced. Look for reflective pigments like IR or Kynar or just plain white for energy savings. [Brand name deleted by editor] has a great product.

Dax Ridgway
- Wilmington North Carolina
October 22, 2009

Hi, Dax. You're certainly welcome to your preferences and your opinions of which products are overpriced. You can also make claims of most any sort without any obligation to prove them. But when you call a product a "scam", that implies a deliberate attempt to cheat people -- so you really should quote a state attorney general, a better business bureau, or Consumer Reports when doing that :-)

Further, to make "scam" claims against others while hiding behind a fictitious name yourself ... :-)

Regards,

Ted Mooney, P.E.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey
October 23, 2009

A. We have a single wide older mobile home that I built a deck around and then roofed over the decks. I've always coated the metal roof with white elastomeric coating with great success. this year I coated the shingles on one side and within two months had leaks all over the place. Additionally, the leaks are starting to rot and mold. No more roof painting for me.

david hunt
- pass christian, Mississippi
January 25, 2010

A. If anyone has stained/moldy shingles and didn't want to "damage" your shingles by bleaching and removing the gravel with spraying, you can stain your shingles. It works. I've done it. Just use an exterior quality stain. It's thin and absorbed easily by the shingle. I did my whole roof with about 7 gallons. It looks like new. Hey, it's just an exterior stain. It doesn't compromise the shingle at all. In fact, you can go right over mold and mildew because it's absorbed right through into the shingle. I used an extension roller for stretch areas and sprayed it on the easy spots. I used a darker color. Might be difficult to stain it lighter. Good luck. It was easy and looks great!

Brad Bahret
- Marietta, Georgia
February 23, 2010

A. The concern about moisture being trapped under sealed shingles if coated with an elastomeric acrylic coating is largely misplaced providing the underlying roof was properly constructed to begin with.

I tried an elastomeric about 15 years ago to see how well it performs and coated half of the test area with the product and half was left as was. The roof has a direct exposure to the south, is subject to extreme weather conditions and underwent some really tough seasons.

The coated section worked fine and is actually able to be left in place for some time to come. The uncoated area is ready to flake off (mostly because I am too lazy to go out and remove it)

Elastomerics work fine, most if not all "breathe" to permit water vapor to escape and resist standing water very well. Just be sure to use a water based product, make sure to clean the roof to be coated very well, remove any broken sections, replace any loose nails, and apply at temperatures above 50 degrees F on a day when it won't rain within 4 hours or so of application. No big deal...

Better if applied about a year or so after initial shingle installation.

Better yet, install a metal roof, white being the best choice for heat reflectivity.

Duncan Matthews
- Alberta, Canada
March 24, 2010

A. I painted my roof with roof paint from a big-box store recently. It looks good and have had no problems so far. It's advertised as algae and mildew resistant. There is a primer and a finish coat. My roof had a few good years left I was told but by the looks of it I believe it will now have several good years and matches my house trim.

Gerry Morgan
- Spring Hill, Florida, USA
July 30, 2010

A. I am not an expert but I am part of a team of attorneys which has filed a class action lawsuit in Miami on behalf of thousands of Florida homeowners who have had their asphalt shingle roofs coated with elastomeric as part of an energy conservation program.
An asphalt shingle roof is a discontinuous roof system in which the shingles are designed to shed water and moisture. Elastomeric is a highly adhesive rubberized (reflective) coating which can turn a discontinuous shingle roof system into a continuous one.
Our expert witnesses believe that when you apply elastomeric to an asphalt shingle roof it can have the effect of sealing (gluing) down the edges of the shingles,thereby trapping in water and moisture, causing accelerated nail rusting, rotting wood and leaks. Applying elastomeric to a shingle roof can also "curl" the shingles, change the roof's fire rating, may violate the local building code as well as void a shingle manufacturer's and the roof installer's warranties. And while it may be theoretically possible to thickly coat and "membrane" a shingle roof to such an extent so as to turn it into a continuous rubberized watertight surface, extreme caution should be used as well as contacting both the shingle and the elastomeric manufacturers for technical advice before applying any coating which may alter the basic design and functionality of an asphalt shingle roof system.

Jorge Duarte
- Miami, Florida, USA

A. It is true that you need to coat the shingle edges before coating with an elastomeric. The only problem is that there are no materials designed to do this. I created a sealer (combination of an elastomeric with crumb rubber, resins and other chemicals) that I have applied in my own roof to seal the edges and then applied the elastomeric on top. Crumb rubber will re-coat weathered shingles. This material needs to be applied with a brush and the elastomeric with an Paint Sprayer (airless) [affil links].

Antonio Lopez
- El Paso, Texas
May 10, 2011

A. I'm a painter and have coated old shingles with regular exterior house paint. These were on rental units so color didn't matter. I bought up the cheap mis-tints at several paint stores (all the grades and sheens will intermix) and mixed them together, usually getting a mid-tone mud color. After cleaning the roofs I rolled on two good coats. That stuff held up for eight years until a big hail storm beat the shingles apart.
My own roof was stained when new. The previous owner used "shop certified" shingles from a builders' surplus store. That means they're defective in some respect, perhaps the granule color wasn't even so the factory stained them charcoal. 18 years later they're a light grey. I'm considering using an acrylic driveway sealer mixed 50/50 with exterior paint to create a stain/granule glue. I think that could extend it's service life for 6-8 years if not more.

Bill Wils
- Longview, Texas, USA
May 29, 2011

A. I painted my asphalt shingle roof several years ago with elastomeric white roof paint and have been very pleased. The cost was less than half as much as a new roof, no shingles have been lost in windstorms and the temperature recently was 100 degrees outside but only 86 degrees inside despite the air conditioner not having been on for over 24 hours.

There have been no leaks and no damage to the underlying plywood. A couple at my suggestion painted their roof the same way but with a different brand of elastomeric white roof paint and they have been very pleased as well. Drove by three or so other houses in this city with similarly painted white roofs, and assuming it's elastomeric white roof paint but it might be some other kind of paint so others are doing it as well.

Suffice it to say that any elastomeric white roof paint should work, especially if it doesn't say not to use it on asphalt shingles.

I and the couple smeared the paint on in several coats with a conventional 9" paint roller on a stick until all gaps were pure white. I used the same paint to paint the drip lip where the shingles meet the bottom of the roof and did not overcoat the drip lip with a different color. For aesthetic reasons, the couple painted the drip lip with colored non elastomeric paint. The big deal is get a good seal on the shingles and/or drip lip so no water can get under any shingle.

A neighbor, from whom I got the idea to use white roof paint, originally had a rock roof consisting of a base plywood layer, then tar paper, then rock. He pushed the rocks off and painted the tar paper directly. Later, workers on the roof dropped a heavy object, denting the roof down to the plywood. He just painted over the dent in the plywood with the same elastomeric white roof paint and you can't tell where the dent was.

After 10 years, on a long weekend and by himself with a 9" paint roller on a stick, he repainted his roof with a different elastomeric white roof paint that says to not use on asphalt shingles. He needed less paint than when the roof was painted originally as the surface was smoother. After a couple of years, it shows no wear and should continue to stand up fine for an estimated life of about 10 years between paintings. Just repaint every 10 years.

Karl Putman
- El Paso, Texas
August 25, 2011

A. In Texas it gets hot so I applied one coat of white elastomeric paint on my asphalt roof a couple of years ago to cool a shallow attic. As far as I can tell there is no problem with moisture retention under the shingles.
The problem I have is ingrained dirt and smoke from a neighborhood fire. The mix of dirty whites look terrible. Power washing didn't work and only made it worse.
So I'm looking to paint again but this time with a grey exterior stain. I should have installed more roof vents instead of the elastomeric. That I'll do after fixing the cosmetics.

Joe Zamora
- Houston Texas
September 24, 2011

A. I painted my roof shingles and they look great! They look brand new, I had to use a sprayer, two coats, I am really happy how it looks. Don't be afraid, use the best exterior paint available it will change your home completely!

David Leon
- Vallejo California
May 1, 2012

----
Ed. note: Thanks David. If you get a chance, email a pic to mooney@finishing.com for posting here.

A. The debate (or difference of opinions) over elastomeric paints, might be due to the weather before the painting. Those who have had success might have been blessed with a long dry spell before painting, allowing time for the roof to completely dry; thus, no moisture sealed under the shingles.
Any support or opposition to this idea?

Walt Griffith
- Jacksonville, Florida, USA
May 2, 2012

---

Hello all,

As an insurance adjuster, I strongly urge you not to paint you shingles. This will cause blistering, cracking, and the shingles will lose their dexterity (making them more prone to wind damage). In addition, the man that talked about tar streaking could not be further from correct. You'll note that most streaking is on the northern slope of your roof, which is the slope that receives the least amount of sunlight. The streaking you see is algae. Please, people ... don't post info unless you are correct.

rahshad swinton
- charlotte, North Carolina, usa
September 4, 2012

----
Ed. note: Thank you for your input, Rashad. It is welcomed, and you are probably right that painting shingles causes more problems than it cures in most cases. But your request that people who disagree with you should shut up rather than reporting their successes seems a bit extreme :-)

I used stucco paint on my shingles. Works great and looks great. Also seems to extend the life of the shingles. The original shingles on the roof are 32 years old. Roofs are replaced way too frequently and prematurely. This is expensive and drives up homeowner insurance premiums. It is also wasteful because all of those old shingles go to the landfill. Don't like the color of your roof? Paint it.

Ron Smith
- Lawrence, Kansas
September 16, 2012

A. Hello group, here is what I know about comp shingles and painting them. Wow! It really is a great alternative to just letting the sun break down the shingles. I've seen roofs that were at the end of their lives go another 15+ years. What I do is get all my dump-stock materials, anything laying around the shop. Mix up plenty of it and start pumping the material on like there's no tomorrow. I can easily put 30 -40 gallons on a 3 bedroom 2000 sq.ft. house. Runs do not matter. After that I go over the roof again with about 5-10 gallons of the color I want to use. Usually black or tan or gray. This is a great side business and the clients love it. Think about it- a comp shingle roof is exposed all it's life. The acrylic coating seals and protects. Water-based over the oil based roof. It's crazy not to offer this to your clients. It doesn't peel -- how could it? It just beefs up the roof. I think there's a killing to be made doing this.

Joe Cullen
- Berkeley, California USA
February 12, 2014

I have painted my shingles with the solar protection white to insulate the house. It really made a difference with the temperature of the house. I was very pleased. HOWEVER, My roof started leaking in several places, three years later. A professional roofer came to look at the roof and showed me that the paint doesn't allow the water to dry under the shingles. The entire roof is ruined. The wood underneath is soaked in stagnated water and rotting all over. The nails are rusted. I have to completely redo the roof. The whole thing is rotten. I am livid. The roofer told me that it happens to everyone who paint shingles with this white coat. I hope I can save some of you from making the same mistake. Don't paint your shingles unless you are ready to redo your roof. I wish someone had warned me. Now I have to spend a fortune to change the roof. Damn White Paint!

Katia Omahung
- Hallandale, Florida
October 28, 2014


October 4, 2015

A. Let me start by saying that this is my experience with painting an asphalt singled roof with elastomeric paint. The reason that no manufacturer will recommend it for asphalt singles is a bunch of them are getting sued by people that did not apply it properly. The keys to getting it to work right are as follows:
1 Buy enough for the job and about 10% more.
2 Clean roof with bleach a soft broom and lots of water (to wash loose granules off)
3 Start this process well before your rainy season (I live in the Caribbean so we get a ton of rain)
4 DO NOT DILUTE it's thick for a reason!
5 Do a scratch coat (what I call a thin coat)
6 Paint between all tabs with a brush till there is no gaps between the tabs and the roof.
7 Put a heavy top coat on with a deep pile roller.
8 let dry for a least 2 days in full sun (check your weather forecast before starting the job)
9 After the next good rain go into your attic and inspect very carefully
10 If you see a leak go back up to the roof after a couple of days of sunshine and find what you missed (most likely an unsealed tab and reapply.
11 Repeat steps 9 and 10 until there are no more leaks.
The roof on my house was 12 years old and starting to fall apart. I have seen no further damage to the roof since this was done 4 years ago and expect to never remove the shingles as I will simply repaint every 8 to 10 years. I hope this helps people who are trying to decide. Of course the question is to paint or not to paint, wrong the question is to coat or not to coat with elastomeric coating, it worked for me and if done right I think it will work for you too! Small side note I don't work for any paint or coating company just want to help out.

Tommy Thompson
- Utila, Honduras Central America


November 28, 2015

A. While looking into this I found a FAQ from a Canadian asphalt shingle manufacturer:

Q: Can I paint my roof?

A: Yes. The affect of paint on shingles if very negligible. Technically, it could be argued that the paint will help the shingles weather longer. Some roof coatings that are advertised to extend product life are simply premium quality latex paints.

Q: Do I have to use a certain type of paint on my roof?

A: Yes. Latex paints must be used. Latex paints will do nothing more than color the shingles. On the other hand, oil-based paints may soften the shingles slightly due to the solvents that they contain. These solvents will evaporate quickly so if used carefully, there should not be any lasting effects. Generally regardless of paint used, paint weathers off of the shingles within five years. How long the paint lasts depends on the quality of the paint, the pitch of the roof, climate, etc
__________________________________________


As far as the elastomeric coatings and rot, it's because water was already under it and sealed in, and/or water is getting under it. Tab shingles release water that has gotten under it. It is almost always improper water proofing - flashing or sealing around jacks, chimneys, or windows, etc. If there is a wall, dormer or any structure above a portion of the roof, that can add several points of entry depending on how it was constructed or waterproofed. For example water gets behind the stucco or siding and when it hits the lower roof it can't release if sealed at the roof to wall.

I've seen and repaired just about every mistake a contractor can make in waterproofing. Just because he's licensed doesn't mean something wasn't layered or lapped incorrectly. Especially on older homes I've never failed to find a defect that is causing or will cause a leak. Some leaks are very difficult to find, unfortunately even some "experts" think they can just slap mastic on a roof and never find the real entry.

Bottom line, nothing wrong with elastomeric coatings. But you're taking a chance on coating "tab style" roof unless you know it's waterproofed and flashed correctly. It may be working fine for years because it was properly releasing water that shouldn't have been getting under it in the first place. But then it's coated and holds it in, causing leaks and rot.

I hope this has been helpful.

Joe Dawson
- San Clemente, California USA

A. I believe elastomeric roof coatings were designed to be used on low slope roofing that has few seams, such as trailer homes and roll roofing. The stuff doesn't cover much per gallon when rolled on plus weighs a ton per gallon so can take forever to coat a large roof since half of the time spent will be toting up gallon cans or refilling the 5 gallon work bucket on the ground.
A quality exterior acrylic paint applied to asphalt shingles will hold up for quite a few years since those have greater weather resistance. The granules can be a combination of natural rock, slag and semi-ceramic tinted granules so you're basically painting semi-porous masonry. The shingles will need to be absolutely free of any discoloring microbial growths or that mess will continue to grow beneath the paint coating and come to the surface and continue to spread. The easiest way to clean the roof and eliminate the growths is to apply a bleach & detergent solution, let the rain rinse it off then repeat the process to eliminate any remaining growths and their spores. A good mix for that is 2.5 gallons regular bleach, 8 oz. of borax [affil links] and 8 oz. TSP substitute with 2.5 gallons of hot water. applied at 100 sq. ft. per gallon. Spray the stained areas first then spray the entire roof. The bleach will provide the initial whammy to start breaking down the biofilms and killing the growths while the borax and TSP substitute will provide a residual effect that'll keep eliminating the growths when reactivated by high humidity or dew which also brings the dormant microbial growths back to life. Once the stains are gone or mostly removed after a few good rains then spray the entire roof again. The granules will absorb some of the borax and TSP substitute so you won't have to worry about any regrowth beneath the coating.
The easiest way to apply the paint is by using an airless spray gun attached to a roller pole with an attached roller frame with a 1/2" cover. The gun is set near the frame so it sprays in front of the cover and a rope used to pull the trigger. Since you're rolling out the paint, the pump pressure is reduced and a larger tip used to get more material on the surface. You can rent an airless rig with 100 feet of hose which may be long enough to reach the entire roof without having to move the rig. Most are set-up to pump out of 5 gallon buckets so have a ground man to keep it filled. Rent it on a Friday afternoon so you get a free day of use on Sunday. You can brush around stacks and next to flashing before starting on the large areas or do those when you reach them. I always applied three coats and didn't agonize over filling the cracks. The first coat should be like painting a wall where you don't want it too thick nor too thin but just enough to block out the previous color. By the time you have one coat on the entire roof you'll be able to start applying the second coat from where you started. The second coat will go on faster with greater coverage since the first coat has the porous surface sealed. Now let it dry overnight and do the third coat on Sunday. Instead of thinning the paint with water use an acrylic water repellant since that will enhance the coating's moisture resistance yet allow the coating to breathe.
If you buy paint premixed in a standard color then you won't have to intermix or 'box' all the custom tinted pails together to ensure an uniform color when dry.

Bill Wilson
painter / roof treatments - Longview, Texas
March 2, 2016

September 27, 2016

A. Tried and true!

Everyone that has tried/tested painting their asphalt shingles in this posting has had good luck for years, including myself! As long as the shingles have not started to curl up on the edges or rotted out! Remove any fungus with appropriate chemicals. It would be impossible for water to get under the shingle/tabs since your coating the entire roof as an entire mass/unit! Repair any possible areas where water may enter like around flashing.
So why read about others that think they know all about something, but have never tried/tested it themselves! Its very quick and easy, yet it does take several coats, applying very heavy coats each time! I tried rollers, but what works extremely better is a very soft bristled broom with long handle (really saves on back strain)(as close to paint bristles as possible) about 10" wide, going back and forth, covering approximately a 5'x 5' area, then draw your brush down the roof length to wipe away any excess paint from the shingle tab spaces. Move from the top of the roof all the way across checking back for any runs before moving down on to the next run, since it will be unreachable the further down the roof you go. Wait 2 days before the second coat, applying the same way as the first. You'll be protected for at least 5 years and then give it the third and final coat which will last 10 yrs, before needing to re-coat again.
"Caution". the roof will be extremely slippery and dangerous when damp! Let the roof dry off completely, before walking on!
Have store mix a light tint color and have them shake well since the rubber roof coating settles thick at the bottom of container!
Costs around $69 for 5 gal bucket. and covers my roof now that I have base coat @ 20' x 40'
My roof shingles are now 40 yrs old and have a like new appearance! Great stuff!

steve grinke
Homeowner - taylor, Michigan

A. I live in SW Florida. I used a quality grade roof primer, had it tinted, then followed up with 2 coats of Behr roof paint. I bought it in 5 gallon buckets. It looked like a newly shingled roof when complete. First, Powerwashed; allow to dry thoroughly to remove any loose gravel; added new shingles where needed; then primed with roof primer, and painted. You can have it tinted any color you want. Was labor intensive but cost less than $1000. We opted to roll it out because we had wind. Ended up pouring the buckets on to the roof and spreading with nappy roller. Results are amazing; the primer contains adhesives that actually glue the shingles down. We get tons of rain and wind here. It's been better than a new roof, doesn't move an inch. Paint is mold resistant and has at least a 15-year warranty 5 years later wanted to change the color: easy peasy, already primed.

mimi web
- ENGLEWOOD florida
June 21, 2017

A. 7 years ago I was using a 42 ft lift to paint the outside of my building. I accidentally kicked a one gallon can of paint onto an asphalt shingle porch roof. The roof was 10 x 14 so I jumped down with a roller and spread out the paint. It was an off-white paint on a gray roof. 7 years later the paint still looks perfect... No peeling or lifting. It was satin finish exterior latex paint. I would do it again!

Mary Mason
- Fairfield, Pennsylvania usa
July 10, 2017

A. Fun to read such a long running discussion, 2001 to my entry 2018.

I have painted four roofs, some over many decades, and my first comment is everybody is probably right! Whether they had good luck or bad luck or trouble or no trouble. I'm observing that the comments are from all over the country, and I imagine my happy stories may be different if I was in a very wet or humid area of the country, I'm in Southern California with very good success. My second observation is there seems to be a wide range of techniques and expectations. Getting a completely waterproof seal on my asphalt shingles was never my intention, only to preserve the aggregate embedded in the tar on each shingle.
My shingles are still fully detached from each other. Some mentioned putting it on very thick as if adding a new membrane to waterproof the whole roof, I can see how that would retain water if it got behind the shingles, but for both my beach and desert locations, what's observed is the paint stops any of the sand from sloughing off and apparently preserves the roof indefinitely.

On the earliest project, color was not an issue so I used white elastomeric. The roof is still the original from 1984, although I have repainted it a second time perhaps a decade ago (34 y/o). On a 1987 roof, after a couple years seeing the sand start to loosen, I used elastomeric mixed with exterior paint so I could have a tan roof and I have yet to repaint it. Interestingly there was one small area I was going to change the roofline and never got around to, and never painted, and I observed it was all but powder and disintegrating a few years ago and had to replace (31 y/o).

For my 3rd roof, 10 years ago I got a used house in Palm Springs. It was built in 1991 and was on the verge of needing a new roof, and without much money I just spray painted it, regular exterior paint. It's still in about the same good condition as I left it 10 years ago (27 y/o). Mind you, these are dry environments with no mold issues. My fourth roof I just painted this month. I'm thinking the mild coastal roof is from about 1975, and was really starting to lose a lot of sand in the gutters, but still in good shape from a waterproof standpoint. It was sort of the typical orange colored roof (43 y/o) and is now a rich Gray. I hosed it off best I could and made sure a few days later that it was dry. I used exactly 10 gallons to spray 1800 square feet of roof, one coat. I used a high quality exterior paint at about a $100 a 5 gal pail, but for $200 to basically reset the roof for another 10 to 20, maybe 30, years is wonderful. Paint can be a great option I contend. Good luck!

Kevin Rohrig
- Huntington Beach, California, US
September 29, 2018

A. I can relate well to Steve Grinkes post of September 27, 2016, where he speaks confidently about a three layer brushed-on treatment for his roof... My gently-sloped roof of 800 square feet had, after cleaning, an acrylic primer brushed on with large soft bristle brushes, then, days later, two heat-resistant colonial grey acrylic layers were brushed on, again with several days between applications...
Five years later I'm still pleased with the results at less than one-half the cost of renewal instead of re-roofing...
Prior to that, I had an acrylic aluminum paint sprayed on to also increase the asphalt single longevity several times at about four year intervals... This latter style was common with some of the old timers in the area...
Now my plans to sell my home of 24 years include getting a realtor who will support my serious shingle renewal efforts by not letting any roofing inspector with no knowledge of asphalt shingle renewal arbitrarily call for replacement...
There are several paint manufacturers evidently offering asphalt shingle renewal applications by various methods and applications... There are helpful YouTube videos...
I'm digging in with more research for my own satisfaction... It may be timely for a rededicated online focus for homeowners, paint companies, roofing renewal service providers, and naysayers...

Dennis Brezina
- Chesapeake City, Maryland
February 22, 2019

A. www.eco-wares.com/roof-coating.html
Hope it helps and good luck!

Goran Budija
- Cerovski vrh
Ed. note: Goran has been a fabulous asset to this site for nearly 20 years, with more than 1,000 helpful postings! But in the general case we discourage posting commercial suggestions or links to products & sources ( huh? why?).