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Letter 10712
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March 13, 2008
I was wondering if anyone has had success in painting a boat with
Tremclad.
I have an 18' aluminum boat that I am rebuilding, Will tremclad work
OK on the underside below the water line?
Peter Lunn
hobbyist - BC, Canada
March 29, 2008
I paint planes and helo's in Abbeville and everything is alum. We use aluma bright to acid etch. Then Alodine, which is a chemical conversion for alum. It prevents corrosion. Then a chemical coating primer.
Mike Bertrand
- Erath, Louisiana.
April 7, 2008
I have not read this whole post so I will make my response as
simple as possible.
I have revamped 3 aluminum boats for freshwater hunting and
fishing.
1) get everything out of the boat and turn it over on saw
horses.
2) strip old paint, mixture of no tox stripper and wire brush on an
angle grinder.
3) patch holes, I used the green sticks you get from Cabelas, I think
called aluma patch. The melt into place, can be sanded and work like
crazy for years.
4) fine sand with med to fine
Sandpaper [link is to product info at Rockler] immediately
prior to painting.
5) wipe completely clean with denatured alcohol.
6) buy H.S. Camo paint ( 3 drab colors ) from local store for about
$20.00 a gallon. 1 Gallon will do an 18 foot boat in and out.
7) dilute paint with Denatured alcohol and spray with cheap wal mart
spray gun attached to your, or a borrowed compressor.
8) Use boat and have fun, most people could care less what your
fishing/hunting boat looks like
It will scratch and ding just like all old painted boats but the
whole thing works like a champ with one good coat and will last for
years. The first boat I did was 10 years ago and it still looks great
for a hunting/fishing boat.
Tim Legere
- Murphysboro, Illinois
March 29, 2008
I have purchased a 20+ yr old 14' Starcraft Alum. boat. It appears that it was painted several years ago with a copper based anti fouling paint. The alum. hull is showing signs of corrosion ( white powdery substance). Is it too late to try to remove the old paint if the hull shows this corrosion? If I remove down to bare metal, do I have to repaint it or can the bare aluminum stand up to the salt water environment on its own? The boat remains in salt water for about 6 months, what do I do about preventing marine growth on the hull?
Bill Previdi
hobbyist - Gloucester, Massachusetts
April 27, 2008
hi,
Will salt affect an aluminum cladding material? I would like to
aluminum clad my boat which finishing is better PE coating or PVDF
coating?
Claire Maspinas
hobbyist - Philippines
May 4, 2008
Just a thank you to all the folks posting on aluminum repainting. I'm restoring a 1963 camper, haven't touched a paint gun in 20 yrs, no idea about the "modern stuff". Appreciate all the info.
Leigh Kittell
- Enosburg, Vermont
June 17, 2008
To all those still asking the question about what primer to use on
your aluminum boat.
MCDONNELL AIRCRAFT CORP ST LOUIS MO did this study on zinc chromate
primers vs. epoxy primers on aluminum such as aircraft, boats, etc.
They found in their tests that both primers were found to be equal in
corrosion resistance. The information came from the Defense Dept that
tested them both. Read below. Basically, you can use a epoxy or zinc
chromate primer for your aluminum boat and they will be equally
resistant even in salt water. Salt water was what the test was done
in.
Accession Number : AD0425105
Title : COMPARISON OF CORROSION RESISTANCE OF ZINC CHROMATE PRIMER TO
EPOXY PRIMER
Descriptive Note : Final rept.
Corporate Author : MCDONNELL AIRCRAFT CORP ST LOUIS MO
Personal Author(s) : Swafford, Joseph S.
Handle / proxy Url : http://handle.dtic.mil/100.2/AD425105 Check NTIS
Availability...
Report Date : 10 DEC 1963
Pagination or Media Count : 13
Abstract : The need to apply epoxy finishing systems to stock primed
with zinc chromate primer has made it necessary to determine if the
corrosion resistance of this system is adequate. It is also desired
to use only one coat of epoxy primer on stock not already primed with
zinc chromate primer provided adequate corrosion resistance can be
attained. Test assemblies were fabricated of 7178-T6 non-clad
aluminum panels. Panels covered with one coat of epoxy primer and
panels covered with one coat of epoxy primer over one coat of zinc
chromate primer were riveted to control panels covered with two coats
of zinc chromate primer. The eight assemblies were exposed to salt
spray corrosion tests. Assemblies were removed from the test
environment at intervals of 168 hours, until all specimens had been
removed. Examination revealed no corrosion on any of the test
specimens after exposure to the salt spray environment for periods up
to 672 hours. The single epoxy primer coat and the single epoxy
primer coat over one coat of zinc chromate primer are considered
equal in salt spray corrosion resistance.
Descriptors : *CORROSION INHIBITION, *PROTECTIVE TREATMENTS, *PLASTIC
COATINGS, CHROMATES, ZINC COMPOUNDS, SALT SPRAY TESTS, PAINT PRIMERS,
ALUMINUM, METAL PLATES, EPOXY RESINS
Subject Categories : COATINGS, COLORANTS AND FINISHES
Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE
Search DTIC's Public STINET for similar documents.
Members of the public may purchase hardcopy documents from the
National Technical Information Service.
Duane Osborne
- Glendale, Arizona
June 18, 2008
Thanks, Duane. People should not be using zinc chromate primers because of their environmental implications, so I'm glad you found this report that asserts epoxy primer to be the equal of zinc chromate primer.
But the report doesn't really mean anything close to what most readers might assume, because the panels received a pretreatment of Chromate Conversion Coating in accord with Mil-C-5541 [link is to spec at TechStreet] before priming. In other words, what McDonnell found out was only that they could leave the chromate out of the primer if they had already included it in the pretreatment. That's very different from saying chromate isn't necessary or that epoxy on bare aluminum is satisfactory.
For hobbyists painting an old beater, let's ignore that point. But engineers who are reading this and designing components must be warned that a prime coat of epoxy on bare aluminum is not satisfactory. Thanks again.
Regards,
Ted Mooney
finishing.com
Brick, New Jersey
June 26, 2008
for painting you either need a self etching primer or a acid based cleaner. i buy an Acid Drain Cleaner [link is to product info at Amazon], be careful there are two kinds, don't get the one that is a high ph. like draino. you want the low ph. that is like phosphoric acid or sulphuric, or hydrochloric etc. they are dilute enough that they aren't too dangerous if you use your head. just pour on or wipe it on boat , wait about 3-4 minutes and scrub with a long handled brush then rinse real well. two bottles is enough for a 14' boat, only two bucks, when dry , paint with any paint. i used stuff at walmart, about a buck a can. the idea is to etch the aluminum enough to make paint stick, the self etching primer is a lot more costly, the acid drain cleaner should clean the water line also, just don't use it on paint. and make sure it's acid, not alkaline, if your not sure. remember what the old draino used to be like,? those shiny metallic things in the can were aluminum, when hit with water the cleaner would eat up the aluminum and would create foam and heat, you don't want that on your boat. just be careful. ps. it may make your grass brown for a while too
charles roberts
- Easton Pennsylvania
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September 10, 2008 Hi...I have a 16 ft Crestliner aluminum boat..the paint is fading these days and has quite a few marks and scratches on it...can i just paint over the existing paint..or do I have to go through the whole process of stripping ?.. Thanks Keith Zulik
Hi, Keith. Scrape and lightly sand because there is no point putting more paint onto non-adherent paint -- but there is no reason to remove adherent paint. Good luck. Regards,
I tested an area with tremclad paint and it seemed to stick just fine. I did not use a aluminum oxide primer, will it peel later or will this work okay, has anyone tried it before thanks. Stacy Jonh
Hi I'm Dave from Sandwich, MA. I have a 16.5 Lund, it's only used in fresh water, but two years ago it was left for two days in a salt water marsh. Now all the aluminum finish looks to be have corrosion. (little white dots all over) It's from the painted surface end down to the keel. Is this going to take anything like an acid wash? I would appreciate any help you may provide. Dave Tibbetts |
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Hello to all
I have recently purchased an 18 foot Starcraft aluminum boat and I
have stripped the entire thing to bare aluminum. I purchased
Alumiprep-33 [link is to product info at BoatersWorld] to clean and
prep for a coat of Zinc Chromate primer prior to the top coat. I am
wondering is it necessary to do both or is it going to be detrimental
to one or the other if I do? I want this boat to last a long time
before I have to worry about corrosion or adhesion so in my mind I am
going the extra mile!
Ed Neeley
hobbyist - Houston, Texas
March 15, 2009
Hi, Ed. Your approach is technically correct, but consumers should not be using zinc chromate anymore because of its toxicity. Chromates are carcinogenic. You should be using zinc phosphate paints.
Regards,
Ted Mooney
finishing.com
Brick, New Jersey
March 19, 2009
Point well taken Mr. Mooney thanks for the advise! I have several other issues to deal with such as solid aluminum rivets for one. Can you suggest a source for choosing the correct tooling. I am currently using my Air Chisel [link is to product info at Amazon] with home made tooling and getting decent results but I am striving for perfection! I have many more finishing questions also.
Ed Neeley
- Houston, Texas
March 19, 2009
Sorry, Ed. Finishing is my area of experience and I have no expertise in tooling.
Regards,
Ted Mooney
finishing.com
Brick, New Jersey
March 19, 2009
Somewhat redundant but ... I have a 14.5 ft. 1955 Feathercraft and
would like to clean it and apply a protective coat over the bare
aluminum. Have read many blogs advising using acid (phosphoric,
muriatic, hydrofluoric) still other blogs say never use acid. Others
suggest sanding. Have pressure washed and scrubbed with green
scouring pads realizing less than desirable results. Suggestions
anyone?
Thanks James
James Willson
Boat owner - Covington Louisiana
March 20, 2009
Hi, James. Hydrofluoric acid is too dangerous and muriatic is probably of little value. Phosphoric acid, or more precisely a phosphatizing treatment, is of some value on aluminum. And in these days when chromates really shouldn't be used by consumers, phosphatizing is pretty much the only available pretreatment. Then a zinc phosphate primer. Good luck.
Regards,
Ted Mooney
finishing.com
Brick, New Jersey
March 21, 2009
Thank you Ted for the reply. I appreciate your taking the time.
Will follow the advise and post the results.
Thank you - James
James Willson
Boat Owner - Covington, Louisiana
March 21, 2009
Hi
I just bought an 18 foot starcraft aluminum boat.I would like to
repaint.Can I paint over
old paint? Or do I have to reprimer?
Bill Miles
part time fisherman - Rome Ohio
March 23, 2009
Hi, Bill. This is a ludicrously long thread, and few would have time to read it all, but it's been mentioned that if the paint has great adhesion, just rough it a bit with Sandpaper [link is to product info at Rockler] and leave it.
Regards,
Ted Mooney
finishing.com
Brick, New Jersey
March 23, 2009
My husband and I have a 1962 17 ft aluminum hull boat that is in desperate need of refinishing. We would like to only paint the top 3 feet and leave the bottom part shiny aluminum. Is there a special process to leaving the aluminum with only a top coat?
Janet Gates
Boater - Porter, Texas opt
April 14, 2009
This thread is amazing given its longevity. Thank you Duane
Osborne (and others) for some very helpful information. I have just
begun refinishing a 1974 Quachita Jon boat that belonged to my
father. I can't bring myself to get rid of it, so I will use Mr.
Osborne's technique and restore it.
Also, my hat is off to you, Mr. Mooney. I did take
the time to read the entire thread and I admire the way you manage to
keep this environment civil with intelligent responses and calm, well
thought out correction when the need arises.
Johnny Little
- Memphis, Tennessee
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April 15, 2009 Greetings. Ted... great job here! I have an old pontoon boat, used on fresh water. I want
to use some easily available spray cans to first prime and
then paint a glossy black... like I said, using some easy to
find spray cans. Are there any that you recommend? The
pontoons are 20 years old and pretty weathered/oxidized, but
smooth... Svend Filby
Thanks for you patience, Johnny & Svend, the thread is ridiculously long. Thanks for the kind words, too -- I like to think I'm finally beginning to grow into the job :-) Svend, a spray-on zinc phosphate/etchant may allow you to use whatever spray paint you wish on your aluminum pontoons. I haven't actually used it, so I'm not actually recommending it, but it sounds easy and promising -->
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April 22, 2009 Trisodium Phosphate [link is to product info at Amazon]is
used to "etch" aluminum. Just wire brush of any loose paint
the clean with T.S.P. (Following instructions. I.E. proper
safety, etc...) then paint right away... after it's dry of
course. Adrian Riggs |
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Hi my name is Bob I have painted cars before 6 or 7 and are
familiar with sanding scuffing up the surface before primer coverage.
Starting with wire brush then drill with wire wheel,there is a lot of
silicone on seams should I replace with special kind of silicone? I
heard that using military paint called "camo' would be good to
use,apparently
the army changes up colours quite frequently and is easily
accsessable,going for the camoflage look. My last fiberglass boler
trailer I painted three years ago paint seemed to have a dull finish
different type of paint Not sure. The boat is pretty old its a Sears
SS type but I want to breathe some new life into it. should it be
clear coated after wet sanding?
Thanks in Advance
Bob Breaden
Automotive Lab Technician of 35 years - Ontario Canada
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June 14, 2009 This is not rocket science but it has worked very well
for me. I have brushed, sprayed with an airless, and with conventional spray rig. Brushing seems to be the quickest. The glass beads in the paint seem to be the factor. It is tough as nails will take a lick and not scratch. Best of all after being in the water (fresh) for 5 months it will wash with a soapy rag and look good a new. After 12 years the oldest paint job is beginning to loose some of its shine. I'm not in the business but I am a satisfied customer. Richard K.
Kesselus |
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hi fellow boat owners . we use toilet bowl cleaner to remove scum from at water lines on fiberglass boats.best to wet area first.I use a Scotch Brite pad to rub down area.has worked great for us .spray is easier to control be careful around bottom paints. take care, grandpa. take a kid boating
Gary L Merryman
- Soldotna
July 29, 2009
So I have a 16 ft aluminum boat I'm painting After I get it sanded and cleaned off then I put on rustoleum etching primer do I need to put a epoxy primer after the coat of etching primer or can I just paint it
heith provost
amateur - burlington,vt
Hi, Heith. I don't see a need for epoxy.
Regards,
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Ted Mooney finishing.com Brick, New Jersey |
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August 10, 2009 I am also in the process of stripping and painting an aluminium boat good info on this thread! But let me throw this at you guys. I ran across this paint called Duralux Marine Aluminium Boat Paint, on their web site they say it is vinyl based and you do not need a primer coat! Just wondering what you guys thought of this and does anybody have any experience with this paint? Neil Roebuck
October 29, 2009 I began refinishing a Sears,12 ft. fifty year old, v-hull
boat about a month ago. Working on the interior I have
SLAVED over the perfection I desire. Today was the day. I
started to apply paint I purchased at a local Flea Market.
Guess I deserve the mucky look I am getting! I stopped after
a very small area because it looked horrible. The paint
would NOT flow well, and I know nothing about Polyurethane
paints! Acrolon 218 HS. It is adhering too well! I want to
purchase a REALLY easy paint to apply with a brush. I know
nothing of air guns, so I will stick with a brush. Dellea Bennett
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