Aluminum Boat Refinishing

Letter 5057

Aluminum Boat Refinishing

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I am refinishing several aluminum boats and I would like some advice on where to get started. I have a sandblasting set up already. I have thought about removing the old paint via sandpaper but the process would be easier with a sandblaster.

The next stage I assume would be to prep the aluminum for painting. What should I use? What is the best method of application (brush or sprayer)? And what type of paint should put on the hull afterwards? And how many coats are suggested?

These are projects to restore several small boats for my sons to enjoy. You advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cary R
- Carrollton, Georgia

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Dear Cary;

My family is also interested in refinishing an aluminum boat. Did you ever get any information about the process? Did you sandblast your boat(s)? What type paint did you use? We will really appreciate any information or tips that you can give us.

Thank you,

Annamae C
- Chino, California

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In response to this question I have refinished a couple of pearly monarchs in the past year. I've decided that the best paint to use for this job would be paint used in the auto refinishing systems 1st sanding with 240 grit paper then cleaning with a mild solvent degreaser ensuring surface is dust free 2nd apply 1 - 2 coats of two-pack etch primmer leave for about 4-5 hours then lightly rub with a grey scotchbrite repeat the degreasing process then its ready to put a top-coat on. I have found that two-pack acrylic paint with a plasticizer additive works best; the additive gives a very durable surface and reduces chips and scrapes. I hope this has been helpful.

Phill S
- Northants, England

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Basecoat & Clearcoat or Singlestage? I've painted cars for years and some have aluminum parts so I know aluminum can be painted. My question is. What should I use from the waterline up?

Edward Kozlowski
Body shop [collision] - Rochester, Michigan

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This is the method for painting aluminum above the water line:
If you sand blast the hull use aluminum oxide sand blasting sand. silicon carbide will contaminate the aluminum.
blast with less than 100 psi and spray sand towards the hull on an angle, blasting head on can wrap the hull and cause a wavy hull.
After sand blasting, prep the aluminum with a metal prep you can get this at an automotive paint supply shop. This will cause a blueing affect,or rainbow affect.
After the metal prep you will need to prime with wash primer. wash primer is a zinc chromate primer that is mixed with phosphoric acid usually 50/50 mixture.
When spraying he wash primer spray a light enough coat so that you can see thru it . (transparent) usually if sprayed too thick the wash primer will fail to adhere properly.
Topcoat the wash primer with a 2-part epoxy primer or primer sealer. primer will need a scuffing before final top coating. use 180 grit D/a sand paper on D/a (dual action)sander. in hard to get places use red scotch brite scuff pad.
Primer/ sealer can be painted usually after a flash time of at least 20 minutes and usually no more than a couple of hours. I'd suggest using a true polyurethane enamel. imron or equivalent. this is a single stage paint, meaning it shines without needing a clearcoat.
A polyurethane enamel shines without needing polishing and withstands the harsh elements.

Andre' Hebert
- Chalmette, Louisiana

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Deep lacerations on outside of aluminum boat. I just recently bought a 16 foot welded aluminum Hewes Craft boat. It was not well taken care of as there are several nasty laceration on the outside of the hull. I can run my finger over the lacerations and feel sharp edges. I want to fill in the bad places and have the boat painted. If I paint it will the paint fill in the bad spots without being able to see them or should I fill them in with something? If I need to fill them in what do I use? I think Bondo [link is to product info at Amazon] would just fall out because of the flexing of the hull. Or, am I wrong in that assumption?

Will Self
Consumer - Walla Walla, Washington

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I've read about finishing aluminum boats and you need to wash the boat with soap and water, then let dry. Wipe it down with enamel or lacquer thinner [link is to product info at Amazon], then wipe dry with paper towels. Once dry, wipe with a tack rag turning several times. Spray a wet coat of Vinyl Wash Primer. Not a heavy coat, but wet, over lapping several inches. After this has dried, spray it within 24 hours with a couple of coats with a epoxy primer. Once this is done, spray as usual with any automotive paint.

Richard Ridgely
- Wellston, Oklahoma

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I also have been looking for ways to paint an aluminum boat. Is the lacquer thinner allright to reduce/ clean the paint already on the boat or do you have to sand blast the entire boat? What type of sandpaper or procedure to smooth scratches on bottom of boat? Is it best to use a sprayer or another method? Want to make it look nice, but not spend thousands.

Rick Rebenstorf
- Tempe, Arizona

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Refinishing an old aluminum Starcraft boat that has been in my family for 30 years. A neighbor of mine who is refinishing an aluminum motorcycle frame told me about this stuff called aircraft stripper [link is to product info at Amazon]. You brush it on and give 15-45 minutes and the paint and primer bubble up and wipe right off. If I take this boat right down to the metal how quickly do I need to be ready to prime or paint and what must I do before? Just in case there are any small leaks what should I go over the seams and rivets with before painting? I was thinking about covering all of the seams with J-B Weld [link is to product info at Amazon], would that work or do I need to use something else? Then do I need to use marine paint or will any paint do? Do I need to use something different on the outside portion that sits in the water or can I use the same paint inside and out? Can I do it with a brush? I do not have any fancy equipment. I am a rookie at painting metal so someone please help me? Thanks! :)

Robert Garfat
Hobbyist - Mansfield, Texas

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What would be the best stripper for an alum. boat? I have used many types But yet not much results...I made sure they would not react to the alum. Also!
Thanks Joey Byrd

Joseph Byrd
Jack of all trades - Walterboro

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Hi, Joey. I think the previously mentioned aircraft stripper [link is to product info at Amazon] will prove to be the most effective, although it is noxious. But if you've tried many things and they didn't work, please tell us what didn't work and in what way; no sense going in circles with "Try this", "We already did, it didn't work", "Try this", "We alread did, it didn't work" . . . :-)

Thanks.

Ted Mooney, P.E.
finishing.com
Brick, New Jersey

August 27, 2008

I have been researching blasting media and there is some good options and information at www.kramerindustriesonline.com/blasting-media/plastic-abrasives.htm. There are some plastic media options that work very well on aluminum.

Guy Boyden
- Portland, Oregon

June 29, 2009

A post further up the list asked about Bondo.
DO NOT under ANY circumstances use Bondo ANYWHERE on a boat; EVER !!!
Wood, aluminum or what-have-you; NO BONDO.
Some people have the idea that boats are cars. They are NOT.
Marine materials are made especially for boats and cutting corners at the Auto Shop will come back and EAT you.
Polyester putty, a two part component will fill any gouges after proper prep. Alodine etch, then primer then two part epoxy coating will do your topcoat.

Mike Goldsun
- Half Moon Bay, Ca

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