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I've seen problems like this arise both from excessive brightener,
as Ted suggests, and from poor post plate rinsing.
If it's the latter, a dip in 1 - 2% nitric acid before the part goes
in the chromate might help. And, of course, using cleaner water.
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Dave Wichern |
Joe - Falconer isn't all the far from Syracuse where my shop is located. It would be a whole lot easier to see the actual hardware that is exhiting the problem (if at all possible before and after painting). I'd be willing to do so if you're willing to send in a couple of parts to review. People like to point their finger at the plater, but contamination post-plating is a likely cause as well. Have you gotten good parts in the past? Have you changed painting houses? How long was the lag between plating and painting? Do the parts require embrittlement baking between plating and chromating? There's a lot more to solving this issue than "why is the paint coming off?"
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Milt Stevenson,
Jr. |
Ted,
Trivalent chromate on cad? I am yet to hear of such a product. I have
had several people asking about one but know of none. Part of the
reason is economics, a small market.
That being said, Joe make sure the plater is actually plating the
cadmium you have specified and not substituting zinc. There are not
too many platers who still plate cadmium due to lessened demand and
the toxicity of the bath components
Gene Packman
- Great Neck, NY
No, I haven't heard of a trivalent chromate designed for cadmium, Gene; I guess I was suggesting the possibility that perhaps the plating shop is trying to apply a trivalent chromate to cadmium that wasn't meant for cad and that's why it's not adhering :-)
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Ted Mooney finishing.com Brick, New Jersey |
I think there is no need to chromate at all if a topcoat of powder
or paint is bieng used. Cadmium is used because it forms its own
oxide topcoat which retards furthur corrosion, unlike zinc that
corrodes away.
It might be worthwhile to see if a light phosphate over the cadmium
would work better.
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Khozema
Vahanwala |
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