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Letter 3781
Pot metal repair
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My dad and I own a small chrome plating company that
specializes in auto parts restoration. I am looking for
products or methods to repair pot metal parts. Any
information that anyone can provide would be greatly
appreciated. Thanks.
Brian K [last name deleted for privacy due to age
of posting]
- Olathe, Kansas
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The slang phrase "pot metal" today probably means zinc or
aluminum die castings, right? If by 'repair' you mean
electroplate, you probably need to cyanide copper plate,
then acid copper plate, then buff before nickel-chrome
plating. If you mean to repair a broken die casting, you
could try one of those 'liquid metal' glues or epoxies like
J-B Weld [link is to product info at Amazon]. I don't
think you can solder an aluminum die casting. Regards,
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Ted Mooney, P.E.
finishing.com
Brick, New Jersey
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If it is a good grade of casting as opposed to one with
lots of impurities, both aluminum and steel can be TIG
welded fairly easily. The more porous carbon castings can be
brazed with brass type filler metal. When TIG is the choice,
the welded area has to be VERY clean. Engine parts are
sometimes saturated with oil which will mess up the weld.
They require a through degreasing before welding. Cast iron
can also be welded or brazed. If your not sure about the
quality of the casting, have the welder "fire up" on a non
critical portion first. That way, if it's not going to
work...you still have the clean joint to try something else
on.
Mr. K. Holcomb
- Tulsa, Ok
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"Pot Metal" is easily repaired with Welco 52. A square wave TIG
power source AC current with the balance set near the lowest setting
will work good. You need to remove all grease, oils etc. and wire
brush with stainless steel. Clean is the key. Use support on the back
side of thin sections. Heat control can be tricky. You really need to
be comfortable with a TIG torch in your hand before you try this. Use
Argon for shielding gas. Any local welding supplier can get you Welco
52.
Bradford Maas
- Northfield, Minnesota
++
We use an epoxy that is used in repairing aluminum evaporator
coils, in refrigeration work. Then we clean the part really good then
we spray it with
Krylon brass metallic paint (allow to dry-one hour) then copper plate with
acid copper. Then simply finish the part. Works great too.
Philip Camp
- Phenix City, AL
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+++
appended to this thread by
editor
I AM RESTORING A 1946 JUKEBOX IN WHICH A PIECE IS BROKEN
AND MADE OUT OF POT METAL. I'M LOOKING TO REPAIR IT MY SELF
OR HAVE IT REPAIRED. IN THE CONNECTICUT AREA I HAVE BEEN
STRIKING OUT WITH REPAIR SERVICE CO, I NEED HELP.
THANKS,
RICHARD D
KENDRICK
- STRATFORD , CONNECTICUT, USA
++++
A product sold in the U.K. as Techno-Weld is a zinc based
filler rod for aluminium, mag.alloys, mazak (pot metal)etc.
It melts with a plumbers type blowtorch with no flux req.
and can be used for joining metals or filling holes, defects
etc.Care must be taken with zinc based alloys as the melting
temp. of the rod will be very close to that of the parent
metal. This method is more like brazing or soldering than
welding. I'm sure this type of product is available in the
U.S.A. from welding or engineering shops, it has got me out
of trouble a few times.
Colin Peck
- North Weald, Essex U.K.
+++++
I have used a product called HTS 735 II on pot metal and
die-cast quite often..If this helps here's where I got it..
http://www.exposales.net/
M Birkholz
- o.p..ks,66207
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August 27, 2006
Go to MuggyWeld.com and check out their Super Alloy 1 videos. I
have tried J.B. weld with poor results. I have used Muggy welds Super
Alloy 1 and it is easy to repair cracks, pits and missing pieces.
Eric J. Bremer
- Tomball, Texas, USA
October 14, 2007
I have a Porter Compressor C2002 air compressor, the valve broke
off. Is there anyway I can fix this? I believe it is "pot Metal". I
really don't want to purchase a new one!
John Marshall
buyer - Madras, OR, USA
April 12, 2008
Check Out MuggyWeld.com, click on the link for Pot Metal - I think
you will be interested in the information and video clips... They
talk about car restore/parts needs.
Karen Price
- Charlotte,NC
November 7, 2008
In response to several posts about "MUGGY WELD". I also have heard
that it works well on pot metal and have read all the customer's
letters of amazement. However!....I ordered some of the super alloy
1. These folks are sooooo anal and seem to HATE customers. It has
been going on two weeks now and NO MUGGY WELD. I do have an ongoing
war over their stellar disregard for the customer, shipping, and now
I even suspect their claims of what there product will do. All the
customer letters must be made up as several have stated they ordered
one day and received the product the next. I was told they "usually
ship 72 hrs after payment received" even though the site says 48 hrs.
I don't think anyone's in charge at their shop!!! Buyer beware!
Paul Bowsher
- St Clair Shores, MI
November 10, 2008
Hi, Paul. We generally don't print slams. First, that company
won't know about your posting and will have no opportunity to offer
their side, so it's not fair. Second, if they did, we couldn't
possibly print, for all the world to see, their attack against an
individual. Third, the internet is too anonymous; while I believe
that you have no affiliation with their competitors, we can't
possibly check the authenticity and financial interests of the
hundreds of people who submit postings every day. If you feel the
problem is serious, please report it to a consumer protection agency.
Thanks and good luck with it.!
Regards,
 Ted Mooney, P.E. finishing.com Brick, New Jersey
November 16, 2008
I just ordered some Muggy rod and received it in less than a week.
I don't know why you are having trouble getting product. Maybe just a
glitch and hopefully they have it straightened out. I have used this
rod before in some pot metal pit a breakage repairs. It works pretty
good sometimes. But as usual , not on all pot metal repairs.
There is no standard pot metal repair system. Every piece is a
challenge. You never know what you will run into.
I have run into parts that will take the cyanide copper with no
problem. Then take what seems to be an identical part off the same
car and it will not take the copper. While going through my cleaners
and acid washes it will be a different color and even have spots that
are fizzing and erupting. Even though both of the parts are on the
same rack going through the same process at the same time they act
differently.
I know some people will say that I have missed something in cleaning
or rinsing or whatever. But after 40 years of doing this stuff , I
think I know basic proprietary cleaning.
Dear Reader, please --
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up
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- Post a
question on a different
subject.
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forum. If you spot broken links or obsolete info, please
advise!
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