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Looking for solution to darken copper (patina copper)
I've Been trying to figure out how to patina copper to a dark color---The problem is-all the formulas out there are for green/blue patinas. You mentioned pool chlorine over night to accomplish a green patina. Would I use the same thing to accomplish a dark patina except I would spray and wipe it off instead?
Kendall Turner- Upland, California
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I am trying to darken new copper tubing to match a Dark Patina Copper Sink. How do I darken the tubing to match? Wendy Dunn- Fairport, New York
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Does anyone know a good home solution I can make to turn copper to a blue/black color?
Garry Basingersheet metal - Katy, Texas
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I need to know how to do a dark patina on standard red flat finish copper. I am not looking for a green or blue patina, but more of an aged look with the dark bronze color. Is there some kind of chemical we can use to achieve this? This is for a backsplash and countertop area.
Thanks!
Interior Design - Blue Ridge, Georgia
Hi, Jessica.
You can get bottles of
at this link on ebay. Good luck
Regards,
Ted Mooney, P.E.
finishing.com
Brick, New Jersey
++++++FYI folks: "Liver of Sulphur" is also known as "Sulfurated Potash," and is more readily found using that name instead.
Joseph Maryland
"Liver of Sulphur" / "Sulfurated Potash" may be used for a brown to blackish-brown to nearly black patina. (More/longer exposure gets blacker.)
I found a wide range of DIY copper patinas at secure.sciencecompany.com/Do-It-Yourself-Patina-Formulas-W12C672.aspx
(I have no affiliation with the referenced company, nor have I done business with them. I simply found their list of copper patina formulae in addition to this forum while searching for such info and saw benefit in spreading their info)
- Southfield, Michigan
November 5, 2008I think the best product to use is Birchwood Casey antique blk finishing gel.
Nimunter Jehman
It can be used at room temperature. Being a gel, you can use it on a flat surface or 3 dimensional shape,(no drips), and easy wash-off.
Nim
conceptual art media - Vancouver, BC, Canada
November 15, 2008 I find that Jax patina solutions =>
Shane Jost
work very well. They are available at many art stores as well. Liver of Sulphur works very well, you may want to use a fine scotch-brite pad to even out the surface. I use liver of sulphur daily and the method of application is mixing the solution, a thumbnail size to a pint of warm water. Let it dissolve and sit for about 30 minutes. Use the scotch-brite pad and rob the patina in in circular motions, blending the solution onto the copper panel. It will be easier to work with the pieces flat on a table. Liver of sulphur has a short reaction time and once it has reacted, the effects tend to die off quickly.
- Calgary, Alberta, Canada
December 2, 2010
Hello. Using liver of sulfur to change the copper to black which works if the water is hot and metal is hot. I had to clean fingerprints off the copper first with Muriatic acid then wash with water and fine steel wool. Is this the best way to make vertical copper black or is there another way? I have dipped sheets of copper in a bin with the liver of sulfur solution and spreads out evenly and nice. But I noticed maybe need to clean the Muriatic acid off better. Not getting even looks with the acid. ?
Mark PhanOwner Painting - Monterey, California US
August 10, 2011
I am a hobbyist that is pressing copper by hand. I am eager to try this "liver of sulfur" but I am finding it difficult to find here in southern Ontario. Can anybody help me with vendor details, or at least where I can order some?
Tim Littlehobbyist - Burlington, Ontario, Canada
August 10, 2011
Hi, Tim. Probably the easiest source is Amazon =>
Regards,
Ted Mooney, P.E.
finishing.com
Brick, New Jersey
August 12, 2011Hi, Ted. Thanx for your help. I was successful in my quest and found "liver of sulfur" in liquid form at "LacyTool.ca," They have several different products.
Tim Little
- Burlington, Ontario, Canada
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August 7, 2011
Hi, on a number of occasions I have had to turn large copper sculpture black and varying shades of brown as well. I use Birchwood Casey M-24 liquid solution. I will usually strip the original patina with Muriatic Acid or Soda blast it off. Both do a good job of etching the metal and providing a superior surface to reapply an even, adherent patina. I mix the solution with distilled water, 50/50 for browns, 100% for blacks. I spray it on with a HVLP sprayer at 20 psi and a 1.4-1.7 nozzle on the gun. Heat the surface to an even temperature if possible using a patina torch 200 degrees TOPS! the more evenly heated the piece is the better patina you will get, trust me, take your time on this one it has been my experience that if you don't get the results you are looking for on the first 3-4 tries you will start to see areas of the finish peeling off. with a good even heat, spray, and proper prep work the finish will be a tough one to beat. If you get it too hot or reapply more than 4 times you will start to see a steely blue gray. That means its time to strip it and start over, it only gets worse from there. Let each application stay on for 20 min or until the metal cools then rinse with plenty of water, if the metal is still hot the water will streak the finish. Rinsing from the bottom up helps eliminate any chance of streaking. While rinsing I GENTLY run my hand over the surface to remove any powdery residue the water doesn't. If I like it I thoroughly spray it with acetone and top coat it with permalac (outdoor) or Butchers/Renaissance wax (indoor), if not I dry it with compressed air and reheat/reapply. Hope this helps!
Inner Metal Works - Bedford, Texas |
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