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Letter 21021
Superlight/Superstrong model airfoil
contruction
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I'd like to build my own model airplane. From scratch. For fun.
Good design characteristics of course imply that an airplane be
stiff and light. And also preferably durable ('cuz it's gonna crash,
oh yes..). I want something more substantive than mylar and balsa. I
want something that might withstand the force of a mini-jet engine. I
probably won't start with jet propulsion, but I'd like to go there.
A thin shell, or maybe better, a double shell,
deposited/painted/cast onto/into a mold of my making would be ideal.
I would be doing this at home, so solutions requiring extreme
vacuum (i.e. extreme expense), extreme toxicity, etc. are out of the
running. This is home hobbiest territory. I do, however, more or less
have access to whatever machine tools etc. that you might find at a
university.
Yes, I could probably find a kit, but that's just not as
interesting.
Graphite? Fiberglass? Ion deposition + crucible? I dunno. I'm out
of my element. I know what I want, but I have no clue what the
appropriate approach might entail. Thanks for any suggestions.
Ron Peterson
- Granby, MA
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Start by attending a few meetings of a local model aiplane club.
Virtually no one can afford what you are talking about. Also, buy a
few model airplane magazines or find some one that has a collection
of old ones. Take a look at what is commercially available and what
has been done by non commercial individuals. Then learn to fly on
something expendable. After you are good, then look at getting into
the expensive or high construction time models.
James Watts
- Navarre, Florida
+++
Ron,
What James Watt said is true ... you are barking up an expensive
tree.
I did give this some thought ... the best way, very expensive, is
to make male moulds of the wings etc, then wax them, then make female
moulds. This is very time consuming and expensive. Having done that,
you can achieve the nice and necessary smooth aerodynamic surfaces
you need.... but VERY time consuming to make the wings, especially
the wings !
Anyhow, without wasting any more time, may I suggest that you
STICK to your Balsa and mylar constructions but add more Balsa
supports where the wings join the body, ie. a MAJOR STRESS POINT,
ensure you only have Balsa only as fibreglass (frp) won't like
sticking to mylar. Use some frp resin, a THIN (not a standard
thickness) coating so that it will sink into the wood. Then get some
very thin matt and thin cloth and very carefully apply this to those
weak points ... and finish off with some veil to give a smoother
finish. You could get the resin and a few sq.feet of those materials
from a frp fabricator who would also give you a (very) small qty of
styrene for the initial soaking into the wood. I wish you success ...
my first 'plane' was a Balsa Spitfire followed by a Hurricane, albeit
all l:72 scale solid models during WW2.

Freeman Newton
- White Rock, B.C. Canada .... 40 odd years in plastic constructions
for chemical plants
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