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Letter 20064
You sent me 18k white?
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My husband and I run a goldsmith shop in our hometown.
One of the frequent requests we get are creating a custom
wedding band to match an engagement ring (unfortunately we
hardly ever get the sale of the engagement ring, seems we
always get just the hard work!). A recent job we had was to
match a wedding band for the opposite side of a customers
wedding set. It was stamped 18k white gold, about 30 years
old and still nicely white in color. We don't cast in our
shop so we sent it away to a casting company that we have
dealt with for years. When the cast came back the ring was
noticeably yellow compared to the customers original set. We
had experienced this in 14k white before but never 18k. The
three rings had to be soldered together. We had no choice
but to rhodium plate the ring just to get it looking like it
matched the original set.(we don't practice rhodium plating,
in fact if a manufactured ring comes in the plating comes
off before it goes in the display case). It's just a matter
of time before we see that lady back in our shop to confront
us about the ring. Is that fair to goldsmith, when we've
relied on having an 18k white ring come to us white for
years and now we're being let down, possibly making our
customers question our business practices. Heck no! This
business is so frustrating at times, we're second generation
goldsmiths and have been in this business for 40 plus years
and have seen so many changes to this industry. We have to
deal with crappy jewelry (85% of the industry sells) to try
to repair and gold suppliers that you can't rely on. Yeah,
I'm happy to admit I'm a goldsmith!
Kris Gardner
- Canada
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We are experiencing a similar problem in obtaining true
white castings in 18kw. We are currenlty using a very high
nickle alloy, but it is difficult to work with and diamonds
are being chipped too often. We looked into palladium alloys
but found them to be brownish or muddy-white, and so they
still need to be rhodium plated, a practice we are not eager
to begin. I was curious if you (or anyone else out there)
had any luck finding 18k white that is truly white.
Thanks,
Kevin Cousins
Jewelry - Mesa, AZ
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