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Letter 1106
Reworking improperly sealed black
anodize
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I am working on a far ultraviolet telescope for NASA. We are using
black anodized rivets in our baffles(designed to absorb light). Our
application is very contamination sensitive so it is imperative that
the dye be properly sealed. We need a good seal to prevent outgassing
of the dye under vacuum in space. We also need to assure that there
will be no particles generated.
Our problem is that the dye is leaching in our water and alcohol
cleaning process. Below is the history of our parts:
Originally processed multiple lots 8 to 10 months ago using
Clariant Sandoz MLW dye and deionized water sealant process.
Discovered that dye was leaching and that they were not properly
sealed. (Dye easily streamed off when immersed in distilled water).
Made test batch of parts and compared results of 2 reworks: 1.
Stripping and reanodizing, dyeing and sealing with nickel acetate
2 One step resealing with nickel acetate at 200 degrees F.
Results seemed equivalent (no or minimal leaching) so we opted for
the cheaper and easier re-sealing process (no 2).
But subsequent to this found that results varied on a lot to lot
basis.
Have tried to research this but have found mixed and conflicting
information and advice. So questions are:
1. Anyone have good references on rework of improperly sealed
parts. Also on anodize in general?
2. Anyone have experience with reworking improperly sealed parts?
What variables are important? Can the 8 month time period between the
original dyeing and the attempt to reseal affect the parts? Would
surface cleanliness affect the parts? (all reworked parts were
cleaned with Genosolve a fluorocarbon based solvent mixture prior to
rework).
3. Anyone know finishers with quick turnaround time that can
process rivets without handling them one by one? (Work was originally
done in a tumbler, but we have subsequently decided not to do any
further work with the original vendor).
4. Any other advice? Tips?
Thanks very much!
Therese E 
Swales
Ed. note:
1. The Surface Treatment &
Finishing of Aluminum and its Alloys
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Follow-up to original post....we elected to try a two step sealing
process in-house per Clarient's instructions (160 nickel acetate
followed by 210 F water) and it seems to have solved our problem. Am
still interested in info on anodize, sealants, and critical
processing variables especially for rework.
Thanks!
Therese E 
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Most of the hydrothermal seals are hydrating the coating to form
Al2O3.3H2O. This takes up more room than the Al2O3 and "swells" the
pores closed, (sort of; there are tons of articles about sealing
mechanisms). You might want to evaluate a two-step dye which deposits
a metal at the base of the pores to deliver the black color.
Lee C. Branch
Albright & Wilson Americas
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