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How to antique copper
--What can I apply to bright copper to rapidly produce the weathered green appearance? Thanks for any suggestions.
Alan Ziskind, M.D.|
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Try Getting it powder coated with a patina or other weathered look finish. It may save you a lot of money and hassle. Jim Cummingspowder coating - Buffalo, New York |
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The patina that you wish to apply to copper is a form of Copper carbonate that usually forms over a long period of time on items left outdoors. However to speed things up, the metal finisher has mixtures that can do almost the same thing. I would recommend that you seek out a lamp restoration shop that does metal finishing and plating. Any chemicals should be used carefully, and with full protective gear as is appropriate. One suggested formula is:
Copper Nitrate 4 ozs.
Ammonium Chloride 4 ozs.
Calcium Chloride 4 ozs.
Water 1 Gallon
Parts may be immersed, and the solution allowed to dry on. Repeat. Another bath used many years ago was a solution of Copper Carbonate and ammonia. However, due to the fumes from the ammonia, I would not suggest that you try this.

Ed Budman
- Pennsylvania
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Don't know if I can be of any help, but I need help. My wife has given me the task of finishing copper panels in a cabinet over our fireplace. The copper is like a new penny. She would like it to be old penny. Without waiting six months for it to do it on its own, what can I do? Each of the ten panels had a design punched in it, like a basket of flowers, rose bud, act. Save me...! Sam P. Wehunt |
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I am seeking a method to chemically treat new copper counter tops. I would like to see them in a nice brown bronze patina color can you help. if you could give me a formula to treat the surface it would be greatly appreciated. someone else recommended Liver of Sulfur but I cant' find it anywhere to purchase it. thank you so much james acevedo- Freeport New York - Hi, James; hi, Sam. Liver of sulphur is available as a dilute, ready to use liquid, or as a crystal-like solid to be diluted in water, by clicking the banners on the right. Formulas for various color patinas can be found in " Colouring, Bronzing & Patination of Metals [link is to product info at Amazon]". Good luck.
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A beautiful rich deep brown can be achieved on copper by using first the liver (correct name:Potassium Polysulphide) which is available from most chemical suppliers. It comes in the form of solid dry stones which are easily dissolved in water. One small stone, about the size of your smallest fingernail will be enough to mix a solution of 600 ml. Put this in a spray bottle and apply to the copper while consistently heating with a gas torch. Then gently rub down the surface with a wet scourer until you have an even light brown colour. Then reheat the surface, this time applying a weak ferric nitrate, this will richen, redden and darken the brown that you achieved with the liver, when you are happy with the colour, coat the surface with either a wax (floor wax is sufficient) or clearcoat. ![]() Mal Louis Wood sculpture foundry - Australia |
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We have just built a bar counter top with copper. I'm want to give it an acid washed, spotted look. Like something was spilled on it or like it was rained on. Do you have any ideas on what to use on it?
Gary Zukengineering - West Bloomfield, Michigan
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IT is very simple indeed
wet a cloth with HARPIC ' the toilet cleaner'
wipe the copper
wait for one day
gently wash under running water to wash off the remaining harpic
do not scrub or rub as that will remove the patina formation powder
after drying spray with clear lacquer to fix the patina formation
I have been doing this often to give my copper sculptures a patina coating
- Indian presently in Dubai
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S |
July 21, 2008
Hi all, Hobbyist - Navan, Meath, Ireland July 22, 2008 Hi, Pat. Unfortunately you can't put mixed metals in a solution like that. What resulted is the same idea that your high school chemistry taught you in coating an iron nail with copper by putting it in copper sulphate. Fortunately the coating is very thin. You'll have to polish the copper off of the brass, probably with a stronger polish and perhaps a little buffing wheel for your electric drill. You also can't leave parts sticking partway out of solution like that. You need to put them all the way in or not put them in. Good luck. Regards,
July 30, 2008 Thank you Ted Hobbyist - Navan, Meath, Ireland July 30, 2008 Automotive rubbing compound or cutting compound, which is designed to remove the outermost layer of dull paint, is what I'd try on a buffing wheel for removing this copper plating. I would not use courser steel wool because you may scratch your items. Of course, another approach, if you want to live dangerously, is to put your copper colored brass fenders back in vinegar, this time with some galvanized roofing nails, and see if the copper will deplate from your fender and deposit on the nails, leaving you with brass once again. It is tricky and I wouldn't guarantee success, but it may be possible. Regards,
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September 11, 2008
I'd like to know if there is any easier way than using the recommended liver of sulfur and heat to antique copper jewelry beads to give them the dark brown finish. I am trying to antique beads to use in my jewelry designs and many beads are a brilliant finish instead on a burnished or aged finish.
Any help would be very greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
artist, jewelry maker - Tucson, Arizona
September 18, 2008
Hi, Penelope. If you are buying finished beads they may already be lacquered, and the lacquer must be removed with acetone [linked by editor to product info at Rockler] or lacquer thinner [linked by editor to product info at Amazon]. I'm not seeing what's hard about using liver of sulfur: it's dirt cheap, it's readily available, and it's designed to do exactly what you're trying to do.
But if you want a "green" approach, put the jewelry in a plastic baggie with crushed hard boiled eggs overnight (thanks to James Watts for this tip). Good luck.
Regards,
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Ted Mooney, P.E. finishing.com Brick, New Jersey |
April 21, 2009
Hi. I'm wanting to antique some copper wire & beads and saw the advice to use the liver of sulphur. My concern is: do I need to finish it with something else afterwards to protect the wearer and / or the jewelry? Or will an application of wax be sufficient?
And any suggestions on the best way to do the wire?
thanks so much for your help,
Kathy
artist - Canada
July 15, 2009
My name is Ben. I am from Colorado Springs, CO. I just hung approx. six sheets around my customers bar and now they want it with a used penny/brown patina. how do I accomplish that without removing it from the wall. A no fire solution would be great. Thanks in advance!
Ben FoleyFabricator - Colorado Springs, Colorado U.S.A.
July 18, 2009
I had untreated copper countertops installed in my kitchen in May of this year. The aging process has been unattractive so far, in that it's inconsistent and looks spotty.
What can I apply to get a rich patina without waiting years for all these spots to connect on their own to create a full patina.
I'd appreciate some guidance on what has worked for you, and more importantly what has created a big fat mess.
Thanks to all,
Ruth
- Valparaiso, Indiana
April 21, 2010
I have used copper pipe for balusters on my deck and my wife wants them to go green. I have had them up for five years and they have just gone dark brown.
Colin KilpatrickDo it yourselfer - Michigan
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August 25, 2011
1. We want to give the brass jewellery antique look. How is this possible? plating shop employee - India October 22, 2011 To help all of you wanting an 'instant" patina on copper countertops and panels: I purchased a product from a company I found online, although I recently found their products at a metal supply company. The name is Sculpt Noveau. They were very helpful over the phone and gave me quick instructions on how to get the finish I wanted. They have several color choices, green, blue (more like a turquoise) and a natural rusty brown which is what I chose. I placed the liquid in a spray bottle and spritzed it on my new copper island top. I immediately covered the wet top with a very lightweight piece of plastic. Don't smooth it out, as the wrinkles and bunchiness of the plastic on the wet top will make the pattern. I left it on about 30 minutes or so then carefully pulled back the plastic from one end. I let the top dry completely then used a spray from the same company to lightly spray the top. After a few days, I used a wax (also by the same company) to further protect the top. I apply the wax maybe a couple of times a year, which might take me all of 5 minutes. My island is beautiful and everyone always comments on it. Best of all I did it myself! Diane Day- San Clemente, California ---- |





